Any 748 or 996 and even a 749/999 will work. You would likely want to start with a zero map anyway since you have an FIM chip.

 

I thought 749/999 had different pin-outs on the EPROM & throttle bodies connector?

 

I have the 705-411, which is listed for a 996 and works/fits perfectly on a 916 but, as said above, you'll need to load a zero map then get it custom mapped to suit.

 

Thanks for the feedbacks, I will proly order 996 PCIII, since they are available to me immediately.

I'm planing on trying every available maps from PC website, then figure out which one is most suitable for my setup, then build a custom map from there............Wow, come to think of it, that will nearly 100 runs on the Dyno.

 

Trying every map sounds like a big waste of time, but if ya have the time, I guess.

Every bike is slightly different and your dyno shop is going to build the best map possible for "your" bike, not someone else's.

That's the great part of having a map made, it's made for your bike, and should produce the best power/smoothness/torque for your bike.

Aso when buying any 748-996 PCIII make sure its a USB port model, as some are still trying to sell the old versions..............I had an old one that said PCIII but was not a USB port, and most good dyno shops will not dyno your bike with the older style, especially with the DynoJet 250i........
Cheers,
Mark

 

Better get yourself a few rear tyres then...

 

Just some FYI for you to consider. Check with Dynojet to see if a PCIII actually does anything when hooked up to a 916. There's a reason Dynojet does not list a Power Commander for your bike. I tried to use one on my 1997 916SPS. I had Don Babb at Modesto Ducati try and make a custom map for my bike. He had bungs welded into the exhaust headers for the gas analysers to map the individual cylinders. After going to all that trouble then putting it on the Dyno and trying to make the custom map, he found that he could not make any ajdustments at all. He called Dynojet to see what was up. Dynojet told him that although the PCIII will plug right into the older Ducati wireing harness like the 916 and even the 851s and 888s they won't actually change anything. I know there are guys on the 851/888 forum who swear that they plug in Power Commanders to those older bikes and get all kinds of improvements in there bikes. This just my experience and Modesto Ducati is an authorized Dynojet tuning center and Don Babb who runs the shop is a guy I race with in AFM, and I know he knows what he is doing when it comes to Ducatis. Just my two cents, but I would talk to Dynojet directly before spending any money on this.

 

Just some FYI for you to consider. Check with Dynojet to see if a PCIII actually does anything when hooked up to a 916.

I can confirm that it does, here's my before and after dyno runs from my 916 using only the PCIII

 

Sean,

By the way I was having the same issue(running way to rich) after rebuilding my motor with Ferracci pistons, valves, cams, eprom, and exhaust. That's why I wanted to try custom mapping. Don finally got hold of Eraldo Ferracci and the problem was so simple. The air filters were to restrictive. Eraldo said check the air filters, if using the large usually green in color foam filter that fits over the velocity stacks or the small Mad Duc filters that snap onto the velocity stacks(which is what I had) it won't run right. We took off the filters and it ran perfectly, 131 RWHP and 76 ftlbs touque. I have since made some custom filters out of 999 race filters where they are attached to the inside of the airbox, so nothing is covering the actual velocity stack.

 

Thanks again for that info, and yes I've tried the air filter method, its a standard testing procedure when we dyno a bike anyway. I found that, by removing the in-tube filter completely, I can gain 2rwhp, but I'm still on the rich side of A/F mixture. I don't wanna use filters on velocity stakcs, this will change airbox volume, which will make me rich even more. I may go with BCM filters once I get the carbon airbox and tube setup in the future.

Anyway, my 916 is sitting at 104rwhp with 61ft-lb torque without in-tube air filters, A/F mixture at 12.0:1 (I'm going for 14.0:1).

 

Thanks for the heads up, I will confirm with PC.

I've heard that PC won't work on 916 with P8, and I'm also aware of that 748/916/996 1.6M EPROM are identical hardwares, its the EPROM chip that does the magics. I believed PCIII was designed to be competible with EPROM, since all memories are burnt into the ROM chip, and PCIII was designed to alter these ROM during operation. Unlike the P8 system where everything is nearly run on RAM, which is completely erased everytime the power is off.

 

have you tried adjusting the idle trimmer?

12:1 is not too bad at wot, 14:1 is too lean.

 

Aggreed, should be around 13.2, right?

 

No guys, 12:1 is terrible, this is not carb days, we talking fuel injection here.

It really should be 13~14:1, and it makes more power when its close to 14:1 anyway.

And idle trimmer is for idle only, it really doesn't do anything once throttle is beyond 1/4 position. And yes, I played with it.

 

the idle trimmer affects the whole map, more so at lower pulse widths (lower throttle openings), but it will have an effect at wot. on the dyno i use 12.5 or so usually gives best power. you'll lose power going to 14 i'd expect. 13.2 seems to be the number dynojet tell everyone is best.

the UM181 eprom usually works really well when set up right.

 

With the gear I use, innovative, 12,5:1 gives max power on stock bikes some tuned bikes gives max a bit leaner.
I go for whatever each engine needs to produce max, afr is just a control value.

For air filter on 916 style bikes, I use the DT1 with cage inside, it gives exactly the same power as no filter, safe and no loss.
I have tried other over the stacks filters and they have been robbing 4-5 hp, so you need to get the DT1.
I have tried this filter in the dyno at 5 occasions over 3 years and the before/after lines are on top of each other all the way.

 

For air filter on 916 style bikes, I use the DT1 with cage inside, it gives exactly the same power as no filter, safe and no loss.

TomTom,

What is a DT1 with cage? I'm not familiar with it but interested. Thanks.

 

The DT1 comes as a big in airbox version for 916/996/748 and these little in tube things for 996R and 998 bikes. Can you use the 996R/998 type for the 916/996/748 bikes?

 

Who makes/sells these things, what do they look like?

Can anyone point me to a website. Thanks.

 

Thanks!

 

Wow, so some said 12.5:1 makes good power, some said 13.2:1 is better, and I'm going for 14.0:1. Well, once I get the PCIII, I will let everyone know which is the best for my 916.

Thanks everyone for the feedbacks.

 

Seriously look like the Fast by Ferraci filters....

 

Yes your write,but the F.B.F filters are made of MX material and is not protected against backfire , and the MWR filters are made of fully fire resist foam

 

It looks like an identical cage, dont know about the filter material.
Contact kämna and see if they got any DT's left.

An airfilter dont last much more than two seasons, and its not a lot of money to replace it in perspective of running a duc.

When starting a ducati always keep the starter button pressed a good bit of time after the bike has started to avoid turning back over, hurting the starter and possibly backfiring.

 

So I finally finish mapping my 916 via PCIII today.

As it turns out, 12.5:1 is where my 916 makes most power. I end up with 105hp with 63ft-lbs torque, top power falls off just before 9500rpm. All the maps from PC website were useless, I had to start from "Zero map", and build a custom map. Also spent a lot of time mapping 5~20% throttle, trying to smooth out stubble during cruise condition around 2500~4000rpm.

My setup: Stock 45mm exhaust with cored muffler, stock air filters, Ultimap UM181 chip.

Is that good result for my 916?

 

105hp is what Ducati claimed at the time, I think only the 'good ones' actually made that bone stock so for a PC'd stock 916, I'd say it's about right.

 

sounds about right. if it's running as delivered cam timing changing it should give you more power everywhere except past the power peak and lower the peak power rpm.

 

Sounds right..

You could make more with abit of camtiming. Certainly ads quite abit of midrange. I think Tom at Hypertrick did a stock 916 and ended up increasing midrange power by 7-8 HP or so. He also has a good chip for it.

//amullo

 

How the FIM System Works

I had some misconceptions regarding how the FIM chip system works, so I thought I’d pass this information on. I assume it will be of general interest to all.

A question arose where a 996 owner had installed a custom FIM chip that matched his aftermarket exhaust system. The owner had then tweaked the setup further and saved the new settings using the FIM software from his laptop.

Now, I assumed that the chip that FIM uses is an EEPROM (electronically erasable programmable read only memory) that can be altered electronically - unlike a factory-issue EPROM (electronically programmable read only memory) that needs to wiped by exposure to ultra violet light in order to be reprogrammed. I thought this is what makes FIM chips unique - their ability to be programmed repeatedly. Both chip types retain their program/data forever without power.

Anyway, the owner asked whether the additional tweaks that he made were transferred to another 1.6M computer if he took the FIM chip out and reinstalled it in the second ECU.

I always assumed that the settings were written to the FIM chip and would be transfered with the chip swap. Not so ...

Here’s Duane Mitchell’s (Ultimap/FIM) explanation:

“The FIM EPROM are the same as a factory EPROM in that it cannot be reprogrammed while they are in the ECU. They are EPROM, not EEPROM.

Our zone system works as follows:

The ECU contains an EEPROM which can be written-to while the engine is running. This is used to store 'original' software variables such as stored fault codes, but little else. We use the spare EEPROM in the ECU to store our 8 zones (one overall trim and 7 specific zones), as well as our maximum RPM telltale and a few other things accessible with our hand terminals and PC software.

When an Ultimap chip is fitted to a 'virgin' ECU (one that has never used our stuff before) it checks the zone area and if it's found blank it puts zero trims in all locations. Then when you trim the ECU using the HHT the locations are modified and work as a fuel trim 'overlay' on the contents of the map stored in the EPROM. This overlay is non-volatile and held in the ECU.

So, if you remove the Ultimap chip and place a stock chip in the ECU, these locations are ignored and the ECU runs dead stock. Or, if you place the Ultimap chip in another ECU, it will look for these locations and use the overlay in that ECU to modify the chip maps.

So, the zone trims are stored not in the chip, but in the ECU, and they will work on ANY Ultimap chip used in that ECU, and DO NOT affect the chip's operation in another ECU.”

The interesting corollary to all this is that once you’ve programmed a FIM chip in it’s ECU, if you put a different FIM chip into that same ECU, the overlays for the first chip will be applied to the second chip - unless you clear the overlays first.

According to Duane:

“The only way to clear the zones is with our HHT (no longer manufactured) or PC diagnostic program used by BCM, etc. Neither the Mathesis or MDST-type programs do this since they do not use our communications protocols.”

Cool Eh?

Note: A FIM Eprom will render both the Mathesis tool and MDST diagnostic tools useless, because it changes the signals at the computer’s diagnostic port.

 

Thanks for all the responses, especially the FIM EPROM stuffs.

So, I further tweak my PCIII again today, and I had discovered that, by going 13.5:1 on A/F mixture, I can make best usable power.

My top power now at 104hp, and torque at 62ft-lbs. But what I had gain is everywhere below 7000rpm, gained 3hp and 3ft-lbs across 3000~7000rpm. Also I was able to eliminate the usual power dip at 5000rpm, that is often seen on other 916/996 I had dyno before.

Conclusion, 13.5:1 is the best for my 916.

Oh, the cam timing thing, that will be done when I do my next valve adjust.