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What Did You Do For Your Streetfighter Today???

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#1,021 ·
On the chain lube topic ive been using maxima chain wax for years both on my MX bikes and street bikes. Cant go wrong. Not sticky and no mess. Of coarse clean the chain every so often before you re apply.
 
#1,023 ·
keju said:
In addition to the Loctite there are also lock washers behind the nuts. The Driven carrier came with the lock washers. Do you have any experience with aluminum on steel with lock washers coming loose too?

And I was kind of surprised about their low torque spec, Driven suggests only using 20 ft lbs on the nuts.

But I've ran aluminum nuts on steel bolts/studs on tracked cars on just about every nut connected to a suspension related part (arms, end links, struts, etc) and never had any issues with them loosening.

BMWs are prone to all sorts of abnormal issues though. (/sarcasm, well... sorta)

But thanks for the heads up. I'll be sure to check on them every few hundred miles, whenever I clean/lube my chain.
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I have no experience with Al on steel w/ lock washers because every one I can recall was either safety wired, had a cotterpin through either a castellated or drilled nut and stud or was the wheel studs - which are the auto-loosening ones I referred to. Everyone I knew just replaced the Al wheel nuts with steel - it wasn't worth the very slight loss of weight in an area that mattered little to anything except total unsprung weight and even then was miniscule. That means you also didn't have to use the $$$$ Al sockets that were the only ones that wouldn't mess up the $$$$ nuts. Yes, BMWs are full of neato surprises, I fully agree with you there; on the plus side they sure take pride in their engineering. Finding an engine-turned surface on the inside of a tranny that could only be seen with is disassembled was interesting. It also helped explain the cost of said tranny. Make sure you disassemble and inspect every 3 months or so, there's also a potential problem of dissimilar metal electrolysis depending on the specific Al and steel alloys used, etc.
 
#1,024 ·
Dirt said:
Congratulations and welcome to the greasy clutch club:D
I don't think anyone who has done it, has reportedly lived to regret it.

I was initially of the same opinion as yourself, but when one considers that a wet clutch is bathed in oil anyway it makes more sense. It still took me about 6 months to work up the courage to go ahead and do it.
Don't forget that the scintered friction material is totally different from your everyday clutch friction material in a car or truck, and is much the same if not the same as found in a motorcycle wet clutch anyway.
On the superbike forum someone even did it on their 848 evo(wet clutch), and they were very happy with the results;)

I finally did mine a few months ago and it's a whole new bike as a result:)
It only takes an hour from start to finish to do the job, and out of all the maintenance items/modifications one can do to the bike, in terms of bang for the buck it's IMO absolutely impossible to beat:)

Cheers
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I would not do this to a wet clutch bike for fear of contaminating the oil.
I don't know if white lithium grease in the oil would cause problems of not but I wouldn't want to find out.
 
#1,025 ·
flynbulldog said:
I would not do this to a wet clutch bike for fear of contaminating the oil.
I don't know if white lithium grease in the oil would cause problems of not but I wouldn't want to find out.
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It wouldn't. But it is bathed in oil so what would be the point? Motorcycle oil contains friction modifier for the clutch. Just FYI.
 
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#1,026 ·
flynbulldog said:
I would not do this to a wet clutch bike for fear of contaminating the oil.
I don't know if white lithium grease in the oil would cause problems of not but I wouldn't want to find out.
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Agreed. But on balance it's not really likely to cause an issue, as it's not like he was pumping it straight out of a grease gun into the oil filler hole until the grease gun was empty. As I said, spray it on in a thin even coat and wipe off all you possibly can;)
Well he said he did it, and he was quite happy. What ever makes you happy I suppose;) He felt as though he needed to do it, so good luck to him.

I was thinking along the exact same lines as yourself, and i'm confident others were lurking in the background with similar thoughts.
Anyway, problem not belongem me, as it's his bike:D
And i'm probably the last person in the world who is likely to buy it off him anyway:(
 
#1,032 ·
Secret Squirrel said:
I installed my Earth X lithium battery and went for a ride to test out my modified air intakes. I put the lead acid battery from the SFS in my Triumph that needed a new battery.
View attachment 239745


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Hello,
What is your opinion of the modified air intakes? I did on my SF848 stock while back and the only thing i have noticed is a better throttle response.

Cheers
 
#1,033 ·
I think the results are small but it's still worth doing the modification. I really wasn't expecting much. The problem in my situation is that my exhaust is loud and prevents me from hearing the increased intake sound very much. Others with quieter exhausts say that they can hear it more. After doing the modification I do think that the torque may have a slight increase. You can check out my intake modification build on the dedicated thread that I posted.


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#1,035 ·
Secret Squirrel said:
I think the results are small but it's still worth doing the modification. I really wasn't expecting much. The problem in my situation is that my exhaust is loud and prevents me from hearing the increased intake sound very much. Others with quieter exhausts say that they can hear it more. After doing the modification I do think that the torque may have a slight increase. You can check out my intake modification build on the dedicated thread that I posted.


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It looks neat, but if I recall correctly, there was a thread where someone actually did a before and after on the same dyno, same day, no other mods in between, OEM ducts vs. the big ones (either DP or Shift-Tech) and there was zero difference and they concluded it was merely cosmetic and increased noise.

But it does look nice.
 
#1,036 ·
Best weather of the summer here in NH and my bike is under the knife. Never have I had so much trouble taking apart a bike. I cannot conceive how the Italians manage to put allen bolts in the most odd places with ZERO access for me to remove.

This week I stripped the stock exhaust off in preparation for my Quat-D under tail exhaust. Removed all emissions crap that is required for Euro compliance. Removed the passenger pegs, re-routed the key adapter for the rear seat/solo cowl and got a bunch of parts delivered that will be part of the final install. The exhaust is out being cermakromed this week as well. :ritz:







Flapper motor servo gone! Finally managed to get it out and routed the key cable for the rear cowl. The Quat-D exhaust will cover the key hole so I'll have to cut a new hole and relocate it. Honestly, it'll be the least of my worries after the passenger pegs and such.

 
#1,038 ·
DonSanto said:
I started to mount the Evotech exhaust hanger. I gave up after only being able to unscrew one of the 6 screws on the passenger pegs... I need to buy some new tools tomorrow :/


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I was in the same boat but if you take the side panels and seat off you can get to 5 of them without major effort. The oddball on the left side though.....I ended up unbolting the two bolts for the subframe and lifting the tail section to gain access. The reservoir for the rear shock was in the way.
 
#1,039 ·
Duck Sauce said:
I was in the same boat but if you take the side panels and seat off you can get to 5 of them without major effort. The oddball on the left side though.....I ended up unbolting the two bolts for the subframe and lifting the tail section to gain access. The reservoir for the rear shock was in the way.
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Today I figured out how to do it. It took me 1hour in total without unbolting anything. Here's my solution for the oddball :)

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