May I ask, what is wrong with the stock cables?

 

more crank

The motor is slow to crank and more volts from the battery will make it crank easier and quicker. I checked to battery and its output is good, so this is next to do. Its been a typical upgrade for Ducati's.

 

Slow cranking is not a Ducati problem, it's a large displacement twin problem. All my Ducs have cranked slow, but always fired with a good battery. I don't have any advice for you, never attempted something like that. Don't think it's necessary IMHO.

 

People who have put the Hi Cap wires on seem very impressed and happy with the results.

 

Here's a thought? Slow cranking may move the oil/lube into more places before full load condition. May be clever design! Often things are only known to those who are in the 'know'.




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Without a wiring diagram, of how your running the new wires it's hard to give advice, but it sounds like you're thinking about paralleling the existing wiring. If you do this without fusing ( the new wiring) you could be shunting the existing fuse out of the circuit.

 

I wouldn't parallel them personally, I would either just replace them or leave them alone.

 

I've never felt the need to do the cable upgrades on my Ducs, but those that have, either with the kits or homemade, seem to be happy with the results (stronger turnover, faster starting, etc.).

 

At startup, the wires to the Ducati's battery will initially draw in the neighborhood of 200 amps. That's a lot. This is for a stock engine, a higher compression engine will draw this current for a longer period of time.

If you crank it constantly for say a half a minute, and do this several times in a row without letting the motor and wiring cool down, you're going to get overheated wires, even if all of your connections are good. When the wires get hot enough the insulation will start smoking.

Thats why Owners Manuals recommend that you crank the starter motor for only five seconds at a time, with a ten second wait in between tries.

If the wire connections are loose or corroded, they are an additional source of higher resistance and heat. If a battery connection has a small resistance of say 1/2 ohm, a typical starting current of 45 amps generates over 1,000 watts of heat, more than a toaster. The initial draw of 200 amps through a 1/2 ohm resistance at a corroded or inadequate contact area connector is 20,000 watts. That's why connectors get overheated.

As the starter cables age, the tinned and crimped junction between the wires bundle and the connector itself corrodes and becomes the point of high resistance. So a replacement starter cable kit that uses a larger gauge wire is usually a good solution to starting problems. Also, look for replacement batteries having terminals that offer a large contact surface that will make a more secure connection with your cable terminal configuration.

 

Done

I installed the new cables today leaving the stock installed. The stock fuse is on the relay so it still works being it still between the cables and battery. The motor cranks more positive and quicker now. No few seconds of a dead crank.If anymore issues arise I'll post them. THANKS BobL.