Try one of the grey market factory manuals on ebay. I’ve had good luck with them.

 

Google torque values of mm sizes. Note, it may be a steel on steel value? Japanese book says for a 6mm bolt, the value is 9 N-m. So say 6mm pops up as the value, then I'd assume it's for both metals.

But if over stressed, the aluminum threads walk out of the case for example. If you are around hardware long enough, you can feel it by hand going tight. But what is enough bite? You'd be surprised how many loose bolts felt hand tight and stuck there all that time.

Better you buy a bar and needle type inch pound torque tool. That way it can show you what it's like to put 9 N-m on the threads.

Go light. How light? Say the axle torque for the nut is 90 N-m. If I'm on the road, no patch kit, but the bikes tool kit. I am going to go hand tight so I can use the tool kit to remove wheels on the road.

You want to work on it, better learn the finesse of the tightea rightea, leftea loosea.

 

Thanks a lot for this!
Will try the grey market but I guess the bike is too new for those. Will keep an eye on it anyway!

re: googling torque per nut size: I figured that is the way forward if I don’t get the right details. Just tightening the swing arm and axle makes me a bit nervous as these are quite crucial components.

 

If this is fine thread at the swing arm nuts. Book says to torque the steering neck to said N-m and those fine threads of the steering nut. This is a routing job every12070km to relube the front end. I setup everything by hand. If it's a pinch bolt, not way will I torque to spec. I run a few under the required torque for all bolts. I hand tighten pinchers at the forks.

They collapse in and it's a bear, being it once slid out, now it needs a little push with a soft mallet.

 

If this is fine thread at the swing arm nuts. Book says to torque the steering neck to said N-m and those fine threads of the steering nut. This is a routing job every12070km to relube the front end. I setup everything by hand. If it's a pinch bolt, not way will I torque to spec. I run a few under the required torque for all bolts. I hand tighten pinchers at the forks.

They collapse in and it's a bear, being it once slid out, now it needs a little push with a soft mallet.

Thanks a lot!

 

Secret to Torx or hex, or any bolt, is something called torsional load. Walk up to a hex and just tear it out let alone with a Torx taking a sheer off those points. I have a special meat puppet tool for the people you sort of deal wit on the net.

When in the pits and work is to be done, there is no time for torque wrenches. Got to be around hardware a lot to keep the rider alive or step away from the bike.

 

Secret to Torx or hex, or any bolt, is something called torsional load. Walk up to a hex and just tear it out let alone with a Torx taking a sheer off those points. I have a special meat puppet tool for the people you sort of deal wit on the net.

When in the pits and work is to be done, there is no time for torque wrenches. Got to be around hardware a lot to keep the rider alive or step away from the bike.

Very useful, great resource! Thanks!

 

If you fart when tightening it's OK bit if you shit it's too tight

Sent from my SM-G998B using Tapatalk

 

Hey pavement pilots! Trust all are safe and suffering a little cabin fever. Pinch bolts on swingarm recently torqued to 35 N/m after chain adjust.
Upon reading thread I hope its "close" ?

 

Hey pavement pilots! Trust all are safe and suffering a little cabin fever. Pinch bolts on swingarm recently torqued to 35 N/m after chain adjust.
Upon reading thread I hope its "close" ?

Too tight.