Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner
41 - 60 of 129 Posts
When I gave away 2 of the thermistors I didnt expect that it
would come back to be a problem. It went from could I have
one of those to will you replace it for me? So this time I took
a few pics to post up.

1. The thermistor
2. The bottom that you need to open
3./4. The tool that worked best for me.
5. The can opened up top solder joint released
 

Attachments

6. the thermistor removed crimp and solder released
7/8. the bottom of can cleaned for new thermistor
9. new thermistor solder in bottom
10. bottom back in can trim wire and solder at top of can
 

Attachments

How are these replacement thermistors holding up? I just ordered a couple and about to give it a go on my 08HyperS

t_bare
 
  • Like
Reactions: complexCarlo
Mine and the other one I replaced for friend are working
great still. Mine came on just last week on a ride, I carry
a 1/2 gallon fuel bottle in my Kriega dry pack when I go
on group rides now. This is the fuel bottle I carry I am
the only bike in the group with an 80 mile tank. I have
a spare I bought a junk fuel pump on e-bay for $19 just
to get the can so I have one ready but have not had to
use it.

https://touratech-usa.com/Store/Touratech-2-Liter-Spare-Fuel-Canister
 
I changed out my thermistor yesterday, works as advertised! I ordered three thermistors from DigiKey for $1.51 ea and $3.30 for shipping :)

Thanks So Much!
t_bare
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spex
When I gave away 2 of the thermistors I didnt expect that it
would come back to be a problem. It went from could I have
one of those to will you replace it for me? So this time I took
a few pics to post up.

1. The thermistor
2. The bottom that you need to open
3./4. The tool that worked best for me.
5. The can opened up top solder joint released
You should offer this as a service -- someone sends you their thermistor, you replace it and send it back. And no, I'm not joking!
 
Finaly

I did this fix today, been putting it off for months. Seems to have worked, thanks for posting the how to!

I did get a new o ring from motowheels for a fresh seal for the pump assembly, didn't want a leak after fixing the reserve....should have gotten a fuel filter while I was at it.
 
Gentlemen

I have a few questions (and rookie ones at that)

1. Does tank need to be OFF the bike to take out the fuel pump (to work on the thermistor)

2. Irregardless if tank needs to be on/off, does there need to be no fuel in the tank?

3. Anybody have a small visual or written tutorial for removal of fuel pump assembly?
 
You do not need to remove the tank, but you will need to be certain the tank is EMPTY and even then you will need to be prepared for gas to still come rushing out.

Pay attention to which bolts go through the cover and the ones that just go through the flange.

Sorry i did not take any pictures.

Do yourself a favor and get a fuel filter before you start. might as well change it while you are in there.

t_bare
 
Thanks very much for this valuable info and how-to! I just replaced this a couple of weeks ago and it's working perfectly as described, very happy. The desoldering was a little tricky and took a few tries but other than that it was fairly straight forward. However I did solder the new thermistor slightly lower inside the can so that the low fuel light would come on a little later - just a personal preference. I siphoned as much as I could out of the tank but still had 500-1000ml of fuel come out when I removed the fuel pump. Also took other's suggestion and replaced the filter and hoses of the fuel pump assembly at the same time.
Thanks again!!
 

Attachments

Is the Mahle KL97 fuel filter correct for a '08 Hyper? I just ordered a couple of thermistors, might as well do the filter at the same time!
 
Is the Mahle KL97 fuel filter correct for a '08 Hyper? I just ordered a couple of thermistors, might as well do the filter at the same time!
I believe that to be correct. I've got 2 of them in my toolbox waiting for the next time go into the tank. I got them super cheap from amazon.

t_bare
 
  • Like
Reactions: complexCarlo
6. the thermistor removed crimp and solder released
7/8. the bottom of can cleaned for new thermistor
9. new thermistor solder in bottom
10. bottom back in can trim wire and solder at top of can
Quick question, is the new thermistor you put in the Honeywell 135-202FAG-J01 with B value 3468K? This was stated earlier in the thread. I have same issue and need to replace my stock thermistor and not sure if i should buy another stock one or go with a aftermarket. Which model is this you replaced with success?

Thanks
 
Yea...$170 for stock thermistor? Not going that route anytime soon.
 
Quick question, is the new thermistor you put in the Honeywell 135-202FAG-J01 with B value 3468K? This was stated earlier in the thread. I have same issue and need to replace my stock thermistor and not sure if i should buy another stock one or go with a aftermarket. Which model is this you replaced with success?

Thanks
Yes if you look at post 30 in this thread you will see the actual invoice for the ones I bought.
 
Thanks very much for this valuable info and how-to! I just replaced this a couple of weeks ago and it's working perfectly as described, very happy. The desoldering was a little tricky and took a few tries but other than that it was fairly straight forward. However I did solder the new thermistor slightly lower inside the can so that the low fuel light would come on a little later - just a personal preference. I siphoned as much as I could out of the tank but still had 500-1000ml of fuel come out when I removed the fuel pump. Also took other's suggestion and replaced the filter and hoses of the fuel pump assembly at the same time.
Thanks again!!
How do I get the fuel pump assembly out -- just prop up the tank and remove everything from underneath?
 
I have always just removed the tank from the bike I have had the tank
off several times now for Valve Adjustments, Filter changes, stack installs
etc. It takes me less than 15mins now to remove it. The hardest part is
the inside fuel line plastic clamp bolt. It's pretty straight forward but if
you don't have a service manual and need some help go to California
Cycle Works site and D/L the install manual for the Hyper gas tank it is
spelled out in the instructions with pictures.
 
I have always just removed the tank from the bike I have had the tank
off several times now for Valve Adjustments, Filter changes, stack installs
etc. It takes me less than 15mins now to remove it. The hardest part is
the inside fuel line plastic clamp bolt. It's pretty straight forward but if
you don't have a service manual and need some help go to California
Cycle Works site and D/L the install manual for the Hyper gas tank it is
spelled out in the instructions with pictures.
Thanks mate! I'll check it out. I have a service manual -- well, the CDROM version -- but some of the pictures are missing.
 
41 - 60 of 129 Posts