Loctite on the disk bolts are there for muppets just in case they didn't do them up properly or couldn't be fucked checking them on a regular basis. LOW strength loctite will stop corrosive electrolysis by stopping moisture. Anti seize is better. AND. Get flanged hex head for the disks. Better to tighten and loosen IF you get cold welding or galling. Trust me on this.

 

Make sure the flange fits the recess on the disk.

 

When you chase a vanity item such as titanium screws, you can end up quite disappointed. First, the grade you would get will likely only be slightly stronger than steel and the weight difference is insignificant on a land based vehicle. The heads will sometimes strip if the thread has galled during tightening and then you have a hassle and a waste of money and "where did I put those original bolts?"

In general the galvanic response is low with aluminum but you should still follow the instructions as to the thread locker so that you have some possibility of applying a correct amount of fastener torque, since you mentioned brake components, although what it should be for those fasteners is anyone's guess. As far as medium thread locker being difficult to remove, that's the point but you can add a little heat to the blue like required of the red to make it easier if you are having trouble. Do you replace your rotors often?

 

Correction. Gavanic corrosion on Aluminium is extremely high on Aluminium/Titanium. Higher then any other Aluminium/metal fastener.
I think it's the bling factor that the OP wants. And nothing says bling more then titanium jewellery for our bikes. Fuck the practically, I have Ti. bling on all my bikes. I even bought my wife a titanium ring. She refuses to let me use ant-seize though

 

I think it's the bling factor that the OP wants. And nothing says bling more then titanium jewellery for our bikes. Fuck the practically, I have Ti. bling on all my bikes. I even bought my wife a titanium ring. She refuses to let me use ant-seize though

Yeeesss - it is only for the bling factor :grin2:

I have tried to get through to Loctite Tech Support but have not reached them yet. The reason is that I would like to know it the Loctite 243 Medium-strength Threadlocker can work as an isolator between the Titanium Brake Disc Screws and the aluminium thread/hub.

If the Loctite 243 Medium-strength Threadlocker has the ability to isolate the titanium from the aluminium I am then afraid of the strength of the Threadlocker since I then would have to cover the whole Brake Disc Screw.

Maybe the Loctite 222 Low Strength Purple Threadlocker would be the best in that case.

You guys who do not use threadlocker but only anti-seize have you ever noticed a reduction of tightening torque over time or even worse a loose screw???

How often do you check the Brake Disc Screws to prevent them to become loose??


Ciaooooo

Moller

 

ti bolts?

if you could find a way to safety wire your worries maybe over.

M8 x 20mm Titanium / Ti Disc Brake Rotor Bolts For Ducati 12pcs USA | eBay

 

You can but pre-drilled hex head if you're paranoid.

 

You might want to check out Pro Bolt, they're in the USA and across the pond. I've changed out a good amount of hardware for ti bolts across different makes and haven't had any issues. A single drop of blue loctite does the job just right.
They also sell pre drilled bolts.

 

Or Race Ti in the U.K. Most comparable stuff with Pro-Bolt but half the price.

 

I use anti-seize on all my titanium fasteners. Nothing wrong with a little bling, anodized fasteners look better than std anyway

 

Put anti-seize (titanium particular if you care) on the bolts and torque them to spec.

 

They don't come loose. As I said, loctite is only used so the mechanic won't get sued if they forget to torque them.

 

As I said...

I like it when you say things.

 

I use copper anti seize on all my ti bolts. I've never really been a fan of locktite, apart from stand bolts, they kept coming loose, flywheel, stator, clutch i never use the stuff. Steel and alloy bolts i use grease after making sure threads are clean.

Kits are the best way to buy them, if you can part with that much money at once, i buy mine a couple at a time, they make for a nice cheap treat

They're probably the most expensive way to lose weight but if you're only dropping $20 a time, they're great. Maybe adds up to a grand a kilo.

Poggipolini the best far as i'm concerned. They supply to the aircraft industry, F1 and are used extensively in the Bugatti Veyron, they also own NCR. All threads are formed, no cut threads, watch out for cheap Chinese stuff, they tend to be cut threads.

Poggipolini - Home
You can buy direct from a local dealer or motowheels.com carry some of their stuff.
Dealer in oz used to be really good, they're crap now though unfortunately.

TPO good for specific Ducati bolts. and bits. Seems they've just been bought by Belissimoto.
https://www.tpoparts.com/cat093/

Probolts good for race drilled, coloured stuff and kits.
https://www.probolt-australia.com/

I'm sure there's others i've bought from but can't recall them at the mo.

You might want to consider alloy for non structural stuff, bodywork etc.

 

Morning paulie. Kits are cheaper but buying small batches at a time seems to lessen the pain of a big purchase. Not sure about Chinese die cut threads, I think that even they roll their Ti, it's the alloy that worries me. Even on none structural stuff I use Ti. with the exception of Al. screen screws. Aluminium on carbon is pretty shitty on the electrolysis department. As far as loosing weight, it's an expensive way to drop half a kilo. You get better gains by choosing different tyre carcasses. I don't like not endorsing MS sponsors but I've found Race Ti the best bang for bucks by miles. Pro-Bolt and TPO have tons of specialised Ducati fasteners (axle nuts, bleed nipples etc.) if you feel the need to go all out. Pro-Bolt Australia are great to deal with also.