I dont have a tq wrench so whenever I decide to remove bolts I always mark them. Since the dealer had it last, im hoping and assuming that all bolts are tightened to spec. Thats Pretty much how I do most of my technical mx such as removing wheels, calipers, etc.

 

:| Hmmm... Might want to rethink that for things like wheels and calipers. (What if your dealer doesn't have a torque wrench either?)

 

-MTS Standard w/ABS: 10nm +/- 5% ......(1-2-1 method i believe)

in case anyone else is wondering,
-Ohlins equipped bikes 2010-2012 = 19nm

-Sachs equipped bikes 2013-2014 = 10nm but not validated....

a search would have yielded the same results.

 

Thanks buddy. New it was a small number but this is the lowest I've seen on front axle pinch bolts. And thats nm, not even ftlbs.

 

You can also break the lower casting on your fork by over-tightening them. I know from experience because I cracked the castings on the first KTM dirt bike I owned years ago. 10-15nm is a good rule of thumb for those bolts. You really need to own and use a torque wrench on bolts like those. As an example, you can deform your fork tubes by over-tightening your lower triple clamp bolts.

 

I hope I dont piss anyone off, or hurt some feelings, but......you spend $20,000 on a bike and dont buy a quality torque wrench? I am NOT rich and buying this bike was a major investment, but I have two (2) Precision Instrument torque wrenches (the company that builds the wrenches for Snap-On), one a 50Nm since most bolts on this bike are under that. Cost? About $135 or so.

 

I would definitely invest in a good set of torque wrenches if you like wrenching on your own stuff. They don't have to be uber expensive either. We're not dealing with precision machinery so you can be off by more than 5% and still be fine.

 

Even Harbor Freight torque wrenches are better than no torque wrenches

 

My 1/4" HF torque wrench decided not to "CLICK" pulled some threads out of the hole, not happy.
I did stop when I figured that something was not right . I used a longer fastener and managed to catch some of the extra threads in the hole. Not a critical fastener and was lucky there was extra threads in the hole.

The HF wrenches are worth the $20 you/us cheapa$$e$ spend on them.

Pay Attention when tightening! and pre check that the wrench will click at such low values.

Having an ACCURATE small torque wrench is on my list.
And getting the wrenches tested or certified can cost as much as a new wrench.

Any deals out there on a GOOD Small Torque wrench??
Maybe we can get a group buy going???

 

heres the torque sheet I have

here's a screen grab of what I have. "marzocchi fork end terminal fixing screw"

 

I have heard because of the aluminum the pinch bolts have to be put in with care. You guys have shown me the light. Whats a good website to order this from? I like the ones that go beeeeeeeep.

 

I've always liked the Craftsman stuff from Sears, although some folks don't like Sears tools. They are not the most expensive, but they are accurate, and Sears stands behind them. I broke one of their torque wrenches a few years ago trying to tighten a bolt at the very limits of the wrench and snapped something off inside of it. I'd had the wrench for several years, but they replaced it without a problem.

I use the clickers, not the beepers, which is a step up from the beam wrenches I used to use.

 

Check Precision Instruments website out. They have 3 or 4 different types of torque wrenches available. I bought 2 different types, 1 a 100 lbs.ft. and the other a 50 Nm (about 37 lbs.ft.). My 50 Nm wrench is a type Ive never used before, but its much easier to set & use.

 

I really don't understand how you can call yourself complexCarlo and not own a proper torque wrench. So odd.

 

Everyone has their own interpretation. I just have a friend with a shit ton of tools that we usually end up borrowing if the other doesnt have it. Just another thing I can cross of my list.

 

Jus watch out with them cheaper MIC = Made in China torque wrenches as some are made of Chinesium ~ sort of metal, only softer....

Got three premium SATA Torque Wrenches for all my motorcycle and bicycle work = 5-25NM / 10-100NM / 68-340NM.

 

I use torque wrenches whenever possible - be careful not to torque the nut too slowly - this can delay the end-point on some torque wrenches and strip the thread.
Also a mechanic once told me to reduce the torque if using anti-seize . Does anyone here agree with this ??

 

Also a mechanic once told me to reduce the torque if using anti-seize . Does anyone here agree with this ??

I just tighten to the recommended torque, and use anti-seize or threadlock where indicated.

 

use the torque and the lubricant indicated, together

If the manual specifies dry condition, and you want to use anti seize, then yes, if the fastener is relatively small like m6/8/ maybe 10, then you should reduce the torque or you risk stretching the bolt due to the tightening torque being applied to bolt elongation rather than overcoming friction

Ducati makes it easy because it seems almost all of the critical fasteners specify some grease or another...just follow the manual

personally I like good dial wrenches such as Tohnichi if the application allows you to see the dial. Especially for smaller bolts where over-torque will quickly cause a bad result. The good dial wrenches will basically keep calibration forever unless you drop or over torque or use for loosening etc...

 

Help with torque spec

2014 PP w/ Sachs Skyhook: what is the torque spec for the four front axle pinch bolts. It was 19Nm for the '10-'12, but I believe that it is different for the '13-'14 as the forks are a completely different design. I have asked this question before, but the only answer I'm getting is that they think it is the same 19Nm.

 

2014 PP w/ Sachs Skyhook: what is the torque spec for the four front axle pinch bolts. It was 19Nm for the '10-'12, but I believe that it is different for the '13-'14 as the forks are a completely different design. I have asked this question before, but the only answer I'm getting is that they think it is the same 19Nm.

12Nm

 

is this not a question that a manual or dealer can easily answer? i mean, folks have offered answers on this topic numerous times.....10nm, 12nm, etc......if the answer isn't to one's liking, then go to the absolute authority which i'd think was an owner's manual or Ducati tech/dealership.

 

Owners manual says nothing about this. I will call a dealer and ask, but I have received incorrect info from them in the past, eg: what size hex is necessary for the cush drives: the dealer said 10mm and it is 12mm. This forum is oftentimes more accurate than 'other' sources, but my searches have not turned up a definitive answer...so I asked.

 

When there is no torque wrench

You can calibrate your hand by putting a 3/8 wrench on the drive of at torque wrench. Now put your thumb on the head of the wrench and torque the wrench really hard with just your index finger and record results. Now use two fingers, index and middle, then add the ring finger, then all four. Remember these results and you are probably safer than using a China clicker TW. My results are:

Finger. NM. IN LB

1 = 8.5 / 75
2 = 11.5 / 100
3 = 16.5 / 145
4 = 22.5 / 200

Crude but effective.

 

My local dealers most experienced, and Ducati certified, tech said 16Nm for the Sachs front axle pinch bolts. IF someone hears differently, please post your findings and source. I'm hoping someone here will have the shop manual for the '13-'14 multis and give us a definitive answer.

 

Personally? I'm liking his answer best up to now.

 

At our local Ohlins suspension work shop, the owner has seen many cracked fork bases due to over torqueing the pinch bolts, i asked him when hearing of the multis ohlins forks cracking, and said to him the manual states 19 nm, he said never torques them over 10 nm they are pinch bolts, i also have 2 torque wrenchs, 0-30 nm, an a 25-250 nm wrench. totally necessary piece of equipment.