Often, the only time you’ll need to adjust the chain tension/looseness to spec is when you change a tire.
If chains always wore evenly you wouldn’t need to adjust the chain for wear over its service life. For example, if a 100-link chain would wear evenly, then when its overall length has increased 1% it should be replaced. This would be seen as a 4 mm movement at the chain adjuster — not enough to put the tension adjustment out of spec.
Unfortunately, chains usually don’t wear evenly so your chain needs to be inspected for uneven wear, tight joints and missing or damaged o-rings.
Uneven wear results in equal number of chain links having unequal lengths. This often is perceived as surging at speed and similar low speed running issues.
Chains stretch/wear different amounts at different locations, and often when the chain stretches in even one pin connection, it results in a detectable pulsing effect. Sometimes this is misinterpreted as an engine stumble, surging or hesitation during acceleration.
This is how you check for uneven wear:
All 520 and 525 chains have links that are 15.875 mm long, pin-to-pin.
16 links x 15.875 mm = 254 mm nominal length
With the chain on the motorcycle, engage a low gear and rotate the back wheel so as to create 45 lb. of tension in the upper strand of the chain.
Measure the distance between the centers of two pins which are separated by 16 links (pin 1 to pin 17). Rotate the back wheel to move the chain and take this measurement for at least three different segment lengths of chain.
If the measured distances are less than 256.5 mm the chain is still good. When you exceed this number for any 16 link chain segment replace the chain and perhaps also the sprockets because the sprockets are worn-in to match the stretched chain and may not mate properly to a new chain.