Any clutch will suck if not setup correctly.

I have made good experiences with TSS clutches, same as Yoyodyne in the States. Ramp style Bucci design, they´re pretty much all the same anyway.

 

Any clutch will suck if not setup correctly.

I have made good experiences with TSS clutches, same as Yoyodyne in the States. Ramp style Bucci design, they´re pretty much all the same anyway.

(+1) DP performance, Bucci, Maduc, STM, ramp style slippers seem to be very reliable and proven, just make sure its installed correctly, the clutch pack is good, springs are good, and very importantly make sure your "stack height" is correct. Aloha Alex

 

I´d take STM out of your equation. They have a lot of somewhat special designs. Might work well but really expensive and a PITA to work on because you need special clutch holding tools (which cost 200€ at Zupin in Germany!).

 

I have Surflex slippers on 3 of my bikes. They work the flawlessly.
Stack height is critical. We use only the Surflex plates.
Matt is on his honeymoon but he will be back in a week. Contact him at matt@motowheels.com to make sure it is not something else like a damaged master cylinder, or bent rod.

-M

 

the clutch continues to slip under heavy acceleration.

Your stack height is too short.

Really.

It's that simple.

Or, your clutch rod is too long (had that problem recently myself).

Tom

 

I'm not familiar with Surflex clutches, but I understand they aren't the standard ball-bearing slipper designs. It's really hard to beat a ball-bearing clutch in my experience and from what I've seen with other racers - Surflex has some alternative that they'll tout as superior, probably mostly because it's their own patented design, STM has an Evo alternative (still uses ball bearings but with a completely different spring assembly) that they'll tout as superior, but at the end of the day the alternatives have other disadvantages.

That said, your clutch plate stack height is probably too small, your clutch springs are too weak, or both.

 

I currently have a Surflex Slipper Clutch and it has never worked correctly. It has been an exhausting exercise and the clutch continues to slip under heavy acceleration. I am done.

I dabbled with the Surflex clutch and couldn't get it to work for my needs.

Slippers are suppose to disengage and STAY disengaged until the RPM's match the rear wheels speed. Once they match, the clutch should slowly re-engage and thus return engine breaking in a slow, controlled method. The ball bearing/ramping style slipper clutches do this perfectly because they don't need much pressure put against them to disengage the clutch stack.

The surflex slipper, very much like the STM endless screw slipper, disengage the clutch very abruptly and re-engage even more abruptly. It works fine on the street, but on the track under heavy front end loads when the rear wheel is light, it doesn't work at all. There isn't enough pressure coming from the rear wheel to force the plates to stay disengaged. Its a poor design because it requires so much more force to operate that it basically makes it useless to fast riders.

I was thinking the solution to fix this problem is to use lighter springs, but I tried that and it didn't work, all I did was burn up clutch plates as if they were going out of style. Furthermore, I couldn't get the surflex or STM clutches to launch at all. The normal multi-pad surflex plates when they get hot, crack into many bits and jam your clutch.

If your having issues with the clutch slipping, thats just a setup issue. I never had an issue with the clutch slipping and its probably the stack height (which is strange) and or how deep the push rod goes into the bearing assembly, which is slightly different then the stock setup. I'd focus on getting the plate stack TALLER then normal and see what happens.

Needless to say, I've had no success with the Surflex or STM slipper clutches. Both are extremely well manufactured pieces and look stunning, but if they don't work, what can you do?

I've told many people, many times the best slipper clutch is the Motowheels basic slipper, which by the way is NOT the same as the yoyodine one. Yep, they're both made by TSS I believe, but the Motowheels slipper clutch pack is the bomb! I have never used a better pack in my entire life and it took my abuse like it was nothing. When your doing 8 race starts a day (4 pre race and 4 actual starts) you need a clutch pack that works. When you go into a corner and downshift 3 times without using the clutch once, you need a slipper that works properly to save your ass. I've done my research, I've wasted the thousands of dollars on buying the other alternatives and have always settled on the Motowheels basic ball bearing slipper. Doesn't look pretty, doesn't last forever, but man does it work well!

Martin and the gang know they have a good product as I keep sending people to buy there clutches, I've installed 3 this year alone!

 

Note, all coil-spring ball-bearing clutches (including the standard 6-spring STM clutch that has been in my 996 until I stole it for my 1098) are more-or-less the same, so pick the one that's cheapest, prettiest, has the coolest color, is available, or whatever else makes the decision.

 

Jeff, did your 996 clutch work in the 1098?

I tried to use the 996 clutch in the 1198 engine but it would spin or have to much stack height to slipper, seemed weird to me that it wouldnt work as the basket is the same and the discs and pretty much everything else is the same. Also tried different rod length and two stiffness springs with no luck.

So I bought a MPL Tuning slipper for 1X98 and that works perfect!?
Certainly happy that it works, but didnt really get why...

Oh, by the way the spring recommendation you gave me for the long swingarm worked really well, tnx!

 

It did, but only after stealing the clutch pushrod as well - the 1098 pushrod is longer, and the 996 clutch just sat there and slipped with the longer rod. Washers under the clutch hub could work too, but the only ones I found that were large enough were just cheap cast zinc alloy - surfaces weren't very flat or parallel, and I didn't want to make the clutch wobble.

Glad the stiff spring worked out!

Jeff, did your 996 clutch work in the 1098?

I tried to use the 996 clutch in the 1198 engine but it would spin or have to much stack height to slipper, seemed weird to me that it wouldnt work as the basket is the same and the discs and pretty much everything else is the same. Also tried different rod length and two stiffness springs with no luck.

So I bought a MPL Tuning slipper for 1X98 and that works perfect!?
Certainly happy that it works, but didnt really get why...

Oh, by the way the spring recommendation you gave me for the long swingarm worked really well, tnx!

 

I tried to install a used old school slipper into a 1198 recently and had similar issues as you tom. I wound up using a spacer (some steel washers) behind the hub which pushed it out further, no big deal.

 

Effectively changing push rod distance no? I still dont get it...
Unless there are subtle changes somewhere the eye misses.

 

MW Drop In Slipper Clutch with Surflex Plates

is this the Motowheels clutch assembly you are referring to?