if it has std pistons there's no need for anything more than the most basic fuel.

give it a compression test. should see 140 or so.

i would check the fuel pressure with a gauge to make sure it's right.

then i'd go through the tune set up. tps set up, throttle body balance, idle mixture.

have the valve clearances been adjusted correctly?

 

I haven't done any of the above, since I got the bike. They are all on the list though.

The only reason I use 93 octane (AKI) fuel is because the manual says to use 95-98 RON and if the info I have is correct then 87 octane is roughly 91 RON, while 93 octane is closer to 98 RON. If this is incorrect I would appreciate you let me know and provide the correct information

 

they're a pretty low comp engine. i wouldn't waste my money on expensive fuel. but, see what it runs best on and use that.

although it sounds like you've got some work to do before being able to assess the best fuel.

no point having a list while complaining about how it runs.

 

Thank you for your input, I've only gotten the bike for almost two months and at first it didn't even start. I guess I'm doing well for a noob on Ducatis and motorcycles all along.

Will be checking clearances next for sure. The timing belts arrived not long ago. I'm trying to find a decent Ducati mechanic on the island, so far every mechanic is afraid of them.

 

87 octane is all a stock 900 needs.

+1 to Brads suggestions .

Did you use an oem pump?
Did you put the filter in correctly?
Did you use submersible fuel line?

Get it tuned up before trouble shooting too much, it is common for neglected bikes to run poorly. Even if you do the valves and belts yourself you might have a dealer do your fuel injection setup .
I have only seen Stuck open injectors on aftermarket (microtec) ecu's you know it because when the key is turned on it would be spraying at 100% and the bike would not run. You may simply needa tune up or you may have a defective part, you will need to connect with software to read the sensors.

 

Ok, I'll use whatever fuel I have left and try the regular one to see how it feels.

Answering all your questions:

No, I couldn't get a stock fuel pump at the time, so I opted for a Quantum Fuel System pump.

All the items were installed correctly, the flow was pointing in the right direction, all the hoses were seated on the stems and clamps were tight.

Lines are all submersible and fuel injection rated.

Here's what I found when I traced back to fuel elements.

 

Update:

I traced back to the fuel elements before doing anything else. I had to triple check what I had already done and found a fuel leak at the hose from the pump end, no leak at the filter entry or exit.

Took out the hose, inspected it and it looked fine and felt fine. It only had cracks at each of the ends. No obstructions, no cracks when bent, good flexibility. I went on to cut each end the best I could at a 90° angle so it seated well at the pump and filter ends. Tightened the clamps really well and reinstalled. Upon priming the pump you could still see fuel seeping from the hose at the same spot. Less than before, but I guess with more pressure it would only get worse.

What should I do?

Picture of the hose cracks mentioned before. Only there on each end.

 

 

replace the hose.

 

Just ordered one, nobody had what I needed localy. I'll update later this month when it arrives.

 

Update: I took out both injectors and took them to test at a local shop. One of them was stuck and had low Ohms at 0.4. The test results are as follow:
Leak test: "N"
Spray Pattern: "Bad"
M/S-RPM: "Fail"
Ohm: 0.4
"Injector doesn't work, stuck closed"
I could borrow another injector and when installed the bike responded better, still dying at idle and now expelling black smoke from the exhaust. I assume the new injector could be over compensating somehow and I need to change something in the fuel-air mix. At least it doesn't die when twisting the throttle.

Also, I could finally read fault codes, here they are:

Do you think they are related to anything?

Will update as soon as I can.

 

possibly. battery voltage is just alerting you to what you already know generally.

tps could be faulty. or positioned badly. diagnostic tool will show you how the tracks and voltage at each end.

 

Update: Now the ECU won't connect to the IAWDIAG software. I've done nothing different, tried the usb-a and usb-c cables with no difference in connection. Used the cable checker software and it says "success". I'm using the Lonelec reader and a Windows 11 x64 laptop.

Installed new TPS and adjusted listening to idle until it was as steady as it could be and tightened there.

Installed new spark plugs because the other new sparkplugs were super black and sooty.

Rode the bike for 15 mins in a 12.7 mile run. A was fine, some backfires when letting off throttle to downshift.

Went to start the bike today and it wouldn't start as easy as yesterday before the ride. Check the new spark plugs and they are already as black as the other ones (pictures included):
Yesterday -

Today after 12.7 miles:

I wish my ECU would communicate with the ISAWDiag so I could adjist the trim. Anyone has gone through the same issue with their PCs?

 

try hooking up a battery charger to the battery while trying to connect. sometimes voltage can be an issue.

side stand up?

 

Did that the last time I tried. Battery tendered, on rear stands with side stand up and killswitch on off position.