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So I think that I figured out the reason the battery wasn't getting charged...I connected the ground parts of the wiring harness incorrectly and the ground from the regulator to the battery negative was not connected.

Now the regulator appears to be putting out <battery voltage but only around 13.3v. Should be enough to charge but a little more would be nice.

Has anyone bought the MOSFET regulator that Roadster Cycle sells? He's in Los Angeles and I've talked to him about a regulator for my 916. It's a lot more convenient than ordering one from Europe.

-tj
Jack knows his stuff and sells genuine products, and can hook you up with a plug in connection. Have to be careful with sourcing because there are a lot of fakes out there.
 
I have one of Jack's (Roadster Cycle) MOSFET's on my Sport Classic. It has worked great for many years now and it always puts out in the mid to high 13 volt range at the battery. I have a volt meter on the bike so I can monitor that it works great. Jack is a good guy and a straight shooter. Buy his product. Tommy went with the Duc or Die unit because he absolutely has to have everything look 100% original on his bikes and the Shindengen does not look original, it just works well.
edit: Jack can supply an adapter cable to it will be plug and play.
 
Has anyone bought the MOSFET regulator that Roadster Cycle sells? He's in Los Angeles and I've talked to him about a regulator for my 916. It's a lot more convenient than ordering one from Europe.
Just note, that those regulators are not plug and play. You will need to either modify your wiring harness or the connectors from the regulator and create a new mounting plate. Also, you can buy the same regulator used on EBAY from late model Ducatis for about $60. Making your own custom wiring harness for the regulator is pretty easy too. I have done this on 4 of my Ducatis. The regulator from Duc or Die is 100% plug and play which is what I used on my Superlight.
 
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Discussion starter · #165 ·
Thank you for the information. You've confirmed what I suspected.


Just note, that those regulators are not plug and play. You will need to either modify your wiring harness or the connectors from the regulator and create a new mounting plate. Also, you can buy the same regulator used on EBAY from late model Ducatis for about $60. Making your own custom wiring harness for the regulator is pretty easy too. I have done this on 4 of my Ducatis. The regulator from Duc or Die is 100% plug and play which is what I used on my Superlight.
-tj
 
Discussion starter · #166 ·
I believe that I've figured out the charging problem. It stemmed from an improperly routed wiring harness which caused me to miss the grounding strap from the regulator body to frame ground.

With that fixed, I'm hoping to ride her this weekend. But before I can do that I need to figure out why my fuel tank is dumping fuel from the overflow tube. Does it get vacuum from somewhere?

When I fill the tank or lift it and put it on its stand fuel pours from the overflow tube.

-tj
 
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Discussion starter · #168 ·
Yeah, but it happens way earlier than that.

And I've filled my Super Sports to the very top hundreds of times and never had a problem.

-tj

I recall the manual saying to leave around 1.5 - 2 inches of empty space in the tank when fueling it.
 
When I fill the tank or lift it and put it on its stand fuel pours from the overflow tube.
Intereseting. The way the overflow pipe is positioned in the tank, the tank would have to be almost filled to the very top. The other thing I can think of is there is small leak in the overflow pipe near base of the tank where it exits.
 
Regarding the full tank over flow fuel leak i had s 888 Strada tank that would do the same . The fuel overflow entry needs a fully brimmed tank to be used in normal use, mine had a cracked internal pipe that leaked when fuel was over the crack. I cured it by blocking it off . It may been possible to cut out the cracked section & insert some submersible fuel line but it was more trouble than I could chewed with & eventually I swapped in a nice replacement (original also had a small dent from PO hamfisted hammer placement)
 
Discussion starter · #171 ·
Well I figured it out. The overflow tube had come off the filler cap and was just laying in the bottom of the tank.

I fixed it relatively quickly and went for another ride. The first 4 or 5 miles were bliss…and then she started misfiring badly…so badly I worried I might not make it home.

I was able to coax her home but only barely. I think it’s fuel delivery…or lack of. The one plug I pulled was clean and white, which you’d not expect if it was misfiring.

So now I’m going to try to figure out if she’s not getting fuel, and if not, why.

-tj
 
Discussion starter · #172 ·
Figured that out....then went for a test ride...all was well until about mile 4 or 5 and she started missing badly....both plugs clean, (too clean) felt like fuel delivery. Made it home, took her apart, checked for fuel flow which seemed good, checked ignition wiring, seemed good. Nothing out of place but I didn't test circuits etc.

I'd have thought that had it been electrical, the plugs would be dirty from not firing....but they're very clean, as if not getting fuel, hence my fuel delivery suspicion.

-tj
 
Have you checked how the fuel filter sock looks like? If pump is whirring and fuel being delivered back to the tank, maybe it is not enough?
What happens if you shut ignition off with the kill switch but keep the keyed ignition on (so that the pump continues to run) when she is having the issues? Does she run fine for a while afterward? Or similarly: have you tried shutting the engine down for a few minutes when she is having trouble, then start again? Symptoms still there?
May give you an idea whether it is slow fuel stavation.
Some folks here at issues with their coils when hot.
 
Discussion starter · #174 ·
This morning I went through the wiring and the fuel delivery hose. I didn't find anything other than a slightly loose screw that holds one of the coils to its metal bracket. I tightened that, confirmed that the fuel line to the carbs wasn't clogged, and adjusted the idle jets. I went for a short test ride and she ran beautifully.

A few hours later I loaded her up, drove to some friends' house, and then went on a 68 mile ride through the backroads of Morgan Hill. She ran flawlessly. It was wonderful to be back on two wheels, and back on what I still believe is one of the best sport bikes for road use ever made.

I'm looking forward to just riding her now.

Thanks again for all the support.

-tj

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Discussion starter · #176 ·
I took the Super Sport out for a short loop through the roads around our Santa Cruz Mountains home. I've ridden and driven these roads hundreds of times over many decades, and I'm always reminded of how lucky I am to live where I do.

The motorcycle ran beautifully and in the parking lot garnered the attention of a 23 year old rider who was interested in the old Ducati's mechanics.

The only item left to fix is the front brake light switch. I know these are finicky and that there are some aftermarket solutions. Can anyone recommend the best course of action?

-tj in the Cruz Mtns

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Discussion starter · #178 ·
Are we talking about the very tiny square black microswitch with the two very tiny screws in it?

I did not think they were available.

-tj

OEM brembo brake light switch is cheap and available why mess around?
 
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