[casor]

If you look at the chart in the Corrosion PDF, stainless into alum is definite "no no". I put anti-seize on just about everything to insulate a fastener from what it's going into - alum AS on most, copper for steel to steel and headers, nickel AS on steel to alum. Sometimes I use locking compound but rarely. You have to be careful w AS as it will affect the torque specs but I have never had anything fall off or loosen. So there.

 

[Chiefgearhead]

I certainly can provide some.

I'm confused, I thought it was the early SSs that had that crack.

I'll have to look at the receipts. The motorcycle was purchased from BMW & Ducati of Marin, who was fairly highly regarded back then. The only other shop that had as much experience as them was Munroe in the city. The original owner was also a highly skilled and meticulous mechanic (built big bore hot rods of very high quality) I would be surprised if that work was done without replacing uprated studs.

-tj

 

[Chiefgearhead]

Any pictures of the frame crack?
This would be the first pre-1994 frame I have heard of cracking.

I assume the mechanic changed the studs when he did the hi comp pistons?

-tj in the Cruz Mtns

 

[Chiefgearhead]

Frame and swing arm cleaned and prepped for repair.

You can see where one of the sprocket nuts backed out and into the swingarm during the original owner's time. He had Carrozzeria wheels on it, which were beautiful, but not engineered very well. I'll have spindles for a swing arm stand welded on as well.

-tj in the Cruz Mtns

 

[Neil66]

Have you checked the swingarm for cracks?? That was also very common on these variants..

 

[Chiefgearhead]

Ah! I have not. But I certainly will. Thank you for getting me hip.

-tj

Have you checked the swingarm for cracks?? That was also very common on these variants..

View attachment 1107841 View attachment 1107842 View attachment 1107843

 

[ducvet]

Based on the length of those cracks it was run for a long time with cracks, hard to know its back history but it is a classic frame crack from the classic areas. I would have them welded and powdercoated and you should be fine.

On the swingarm groove , It usually was someone who put the cone spacer in backwards and then the swingarm compresses to the point the sprocket nuts rub. Again weld it up and you should be good.

 

[Chiefgearhead]

The motorcycle only has 9600 miles on it. Embarrassingly, I've put less than 1500 on it but they were there when I bought it (part of the reason I put so few miles on it).

In the case of the swingarm groove, it was not the improper installation of the cone, rather than Carrozzeria wheels themselves.

Here's a photo of her the day I brought her home.

I miss one of those machines in the background.

-tj in the Cruz Mtns

Based on the length of those cracks it was run for a long time with cracks, hard to know its back history but it is a classic frame crack from the classic areas. I would have them welded and powdercoated and you should be fine.

On the swingarm groove , It usually was someone who put the cone spacer in backwards and then the swingarm compresses to the point the sprocket nuts rub. Again weld it up and you should be good.

 

[OddBird]

Cracks- another good reason to coat or paint your frame white. They sometimes do with with aircraft truss fuselages to make future inspections easier.

 

[Elbato]

I have heard that powder coating makes it harder to see cracks.

 

[ducvet]

, it was not the improper installation of the cone, rather than Carrozzeria wheels themselves

Did you have a snap ring / bearing stop pop out of its groove?
I have seen that once before on the carrozzerias , be sure to face the snap ring in the proper direction on installation sharp edge toward the center.
Looking at the swingarm picture you can clearly see a small wear caused by a cone being backwards in the adjuster slots, it may have been the wheel this time but that cone has been backwards and worn at least once . The cone large flat should face the swingarm not the small end , you can see a smaller wear mark in your picture.

Many "upgraded" bikes get there by crashing first before the insurance check pays for custom paint etc . I had a monster come into the shop with cracked steering head tubes bad enough he was running a 19 degree steering head angle and did not know it. His bike had never hit the ground but he had run into the back of a car starting the cracks and then riding another 5000-1000 ( dont remember mileage) where it slowly bent things rearward. We may never know why it cracked but a proper weld should fix you up.

Looking at the frame it does not look like this will be the first repaint, the 1/2 fairing upper mounts do not look oem to me so someone has welded on the frame already probably. There should have been some bolt on brackets not a welded on piece.

 

[OddBird]

I have heard that powder coating makes it harder to see cracks.

My experience with powder coating in the past has been that it is more brittle than paint, and more likely to chip....so I have always thought that rather than "flexing" when a crack develops in a tube, that it would tend to crack as well, allowing the tubing crack to be visualized easily. I am no expert on this by any means- but perhaps powder coating shops are using more "pliable" materials these days? The powder coat jobs that I have paid for have ended up being thicker/heavier than paint. IDK...

 

[ducvet]

Just like painters powdercoaters want a smooth and pretty finish.
I have had frames that have received a light finish where it was just about coverage and others that have gotten 2-3 coats for extra UV protection or another effect. There are many plusses and minuses to powdercoating, for my use I find it far more durable than even epoxy paints so having the odd rock or wrench hit it there is less likelihood of damage. Paint will be much easier to touch up and get a custom color but ime far more likely to need a touch up from rubbing , impacts, zipties etc.

 

[Chiefgearhead]

While I have the motorcycle apart and am having some welding done on the swing arm, I'd like to weld spools on to it for more secure/stable storage on my Pit Bull swing arm stand. Sadly, finding non-anodized spools has thus far been impossible. Anyone have any sources/suggestions for plain aluminum spools that can be Tig welded on to my swing arm?

-tj in the Cruz Mtns

 

[Neil66]

Normally you'll have some M8 bushings welded on and the bobbins / spools will bolt into them..

 

[ducvet]

Anyone with a hobby lathe can make you what you want.
Be aware the swingarm has a clear coat that will be torched in the welding process.

 

[Chiefgearhead]

Thanks Neil,

Those look like the Pit Bull spools and adaptors. I was kinda hoping for something that looked like the OE spools on my 851, that are welded to the side of the swing arm, but these may have to suffice.

-tj

Normally you'll have some M8 bushings welded on and the bobbins / spools will bolt into them..

View attachment 1108017 View attachment 1108016 View attachment 1108018

 

[Chiefgearhead]

Agreed, I was just hoping for something I didn't need to fabricate.

I'm pretty sure that clear coat is long gone, although it will be after the welding repairs.

-tj

Anyone with a hobby lathe can make you what you want.
Be aware the swingarm has a clear coat that will be torched in the welding process.

 

[Neil66]

...Those look like the Pit Bull spools and adaptors....

Not specifically, pretty generic, I just specced paddock stand bobbins when I ordered the swingarm from Metmachex

I still need to make some bobbin lifters for my stands tho!!

 

[Chiefgearhead]

Frame back from blasting. No obvious crash damage.

-tj in the Cruz Mtns