[Joe-B]

I agree with most of what dspear99ca told you, with a couple of exceptions. I weigh 150 lbs and I use 1.0 kg/mm springs in my track SS forks. My street FE has .9 kg/mm fork springs. I've found RaceTech's recommendations for fork springs to be way too soft.
Also, I would not go as far as 1" when raising the fork tubes in the triple clamps. If you put on a longer shock (1/2"-1" longer), as dspear99ca suggested, with the correct spring and damping for your weight, it will do more to lighten and quicken the steering, and you won't lose cornering clearance or run the risk of the front fender hitting the bottom triple clamp or bending the brake hoses excessively. I went with a Penske shock, since they are incredibly well made and I wanted an alternative to Ohlins. I'm sure Wilbers would be good also, assuming they make a (longer) shock for your bike.

 

[Joe-B]

BTW, am I right in thinking that replacing the front springs and oil is a major pain in the backside?
Es

It depends. If you've never done it before, it certainly is at least a moderate pain in the butt. Somewhat time consuming. After you remove the forks from the bike, you have to remove the cap. Be sure you loosen it while the forks are still mounted, and the bottom triple clamps are still tight, in order to hold the fork leg. Loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts first, so you can loosen the cap. Then you need to figure out a way to hold the forks compressed enough to get to the damping rod lock nut. Otherwise you won't be able to remove the cap from the fork in order to change the spring.

The only other issue is that sometimes replacement springs are not the same overall length as the originals, making it necessary to cut and install new spacers. PVC pipe works well. The Haynes Manual explains the steps quite clearly. I'd recommend getting one before you begin. Here's a pretty good write-up I found online (Google).

http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26653469/900ss/Showa GD 041 Rebuild.PDF