Sorry, but I did not misinterpret.
This older style of locking the sprocket is great for maintenance and quick changes, but not so good for longevity. There is very little inboard / outboard play in the as-new setup. Play is introduced as the retainer and shaft eat into each other, esp when the retainer is badly worn as can be seen as steps in the original pic. The 2004+ STs have the more standard, high torque nut to lock down the sprocket laterally. Inboard / outboard play is not a good thing for wear, this is not a slip joint.
Ancient nascar rear differentials have little to do with our application.
A supplementary keeper with the depth that holds the sprocket in place laterally will, however minimally, reduce wear. Given the amount of wear in the OP, something is needed or a total rebuild will be needed.
Have a good one.
Yeah, I've been exactly here, just recently. It's imperative you have slop in your plate centre hole, so that the sprocket can float around a bit. There's no way you will be able to keep it from coming undone otherwise. I made a plate like you have done, spaced it out (so the sprocket sits adjacent the groove in the countershaft, where it normally would) with a couple of washers and bolted and locktited with the 2 bolts through the sprocket. I then took an M8 bolt and washer, fashioned a boss just slightly thicker than the plate I made, and drilled the centre hole in the plate slightly larger than the boss. I find it a bit hard to describe, but what you need to end up with is 1. the plate firmly attached to the sprocket, 2. the M8 bolt firmly locked in to the countershaft (output shaft) and 3. still have the sprocket " floating" on the spline so that all forces, snatching etc is independent of your locking plate - this way there is no strain on it at all - it's just controlling sprocket "end float" if you will.
OK,I'll try and get a pic tonight when I get home from work.Any way you could post some pics? I'm trying to come up with a solution myself and I'm sure it would help the OP and anyone else that is considering this option.
What I was hoping for was a way to reduce rotational slop. Am I correct in thinking that their's no way to control rotational slop without restricting the float. To me, controlling the rotational slop contributes greatly to reducing wear on the locking plate and the splines....Right? Still don't understand why their needs to be a certain amount of float when most other countershaft sprockets on other bikes don't seem to have any.