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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last night, I was working on the bike and I would run it to see if the gears would click through using my new rearsets (probably unnecessary but I just wanted to see how it felt). I was running low on fuel and after the 3rd go around, the bike wouldn't start so I assumed I ran out of fuel.

Today, I filled the tank and now the bike won't start. The started would rotate a few turns and then the maint light would come on. I assumed the battery was dead but then hooked up the bike to another battery. I continued to fire the motor up and it actually fired up for a brief second and then shut off. It continues to click only once. Lights turn on, fuel-pump "sigh" occurs, no "turning" of the starter.

I have a recently installed MotoCreations exhaust with the original 02 sensor attached. I remove the evap canister and re-routed the houses from each of the cylinders to themselves (i.e. the front cylinder feeds the vertical cylinder).

Any thoughts?
 

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The pump may need priming by sitting overnight with gas in the tank.
 
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It is either the fuel line hose issue or your R/R is fried.
If the wires to the R/R (under the seat) is dark brown and there is a burnt electrical smell, then it is the R/R

either one is a warranty issue

JC


Last night, I was working on the bike and I would run it to see if the gears would click through using my new rearsets (probably unnecessary but I just wanted to see how it felt). I was running low on fuel and after the 3rd go around, the bike wouldn't start so I assumed I ran out of fuel.

Today, I filled the tank and now the bike won't start. The started would rotate a few turns and then the maint light would come on. I assumed the battery was dead but then hooked up the bike to another battery. I continued to fire the motor up and it actually fired up for a brief second and then shut off. It continues to click only once. Lights turn on, fuel-pump "sigh" occurs, no "turning" of the starter.

I have a recently installed MotoCreations exhaust with the original 02 sensor attached. I remove the evap canister and re-routed the houses from each of the cylinders to themselves (i.e. the front cylinder feeds the vertical cylinder).

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure if jumping the battery or letting the bike sit for a little more time so the fuel can run through the lines but the bike can fire up and run now. Now I'm concerned for a future R/R failure since this seems to be a huge issue amongst many.
 

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Pop the gas cap and turn the key. If you see fuel splashing around its the internal fuel line.
Use a volt meter and check for 12.6 volts or around at the battery, If it fires up you want to see 14.7v to 15.2v

Please do not use a car battery to jump your bike.


I have been keeping an eye on my R/R wondering if and when. I might move it to under the seat pan to get more air over it.. I can feel the heat coming off of it when riding.
I also never use my high beams. As to help keep the load off the system.
 

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I'm not sure if jumping the battery or letting the bike sit for a little more time so the fuel can run through the lines but the bike can fire up and run now..
The self check in the start up system is to charge the fuel system. So this would mean that turning on the key is going to purge the air out of the system and fill it with fuel I think if my head is correct its 44psi. And this all happens in the 1st 10 seconds of start up.

One other point is to not touch the throttle when turning the key on. Let the computer check the TPS and settle on its postion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm having starting problems again. Lights work, engine diagnostic still runs normal, I hear the "sigh" from the fuel tank, and I have gas in the tank. Consistently, the 20A fuse is busting, taking out my headlight. The brake light still glows but now doesn't shine bright when the brakes are applied. I checked the ballast and didn't find any noticeable damage. I tried switching bulbs but no solution.

Reading about voltage regulator issues related to the lack of cooling it gets, I think that might be the problem. With the MotoCreations BoomTube exhaust, the bike sits really hot but the engine temp stays at 190. I notice tons of heat coming from under my ass so I'm thinking the regulator is experiencing too much heat. I checked the wires near the regulator and found that they are still "un-burned."

If this is the voltage regulator, is that covered under warranty as "defective?" She's a 2008 and I don't remember if I bought extended coverage. If not, how much does this piece cost?

Any insight?
 

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Now I'm concerned for a future R/R failure since this seems to be a huge issue amongst many.
An occasional issue, not a huge one.

I have been keeping an eye on my R/R wondering if and when... I can feel the heat coming off of it when riding...
I also never use my high beams. As to help keep the load off the system.
You feel heat coming off the rectifier when you ride? If so you have a real problem. Maybe with the rectifier, maybe with your "seat."

The thought of not using my high beams (or for that matter not being able to hook up my electric vest) would never enter my mind. My first model year GT still has the original rectifier. In the possible but not particularly likely case of it failing I'd just replace it.

I do, btw, check the connection from time to time, just as I check many other items on my machines. In my view that is the best protection against failure, and a checkbook the best resolution if there is one.

Life is short.
Worrying makes it shorter still.
Just ride.

-don
 

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Sounds like an electrical issue to me and NOT fuel. There is no need to let the bike sit over night to let fuel trickle into the pump. Even just a 1/2 gallon of fuel is all the tank needs, just turn the key to "ON" and let the pump do it's cycle (about a second or two or so). This is a common feature of many FI (fuel injection) systems, to cycle the fuel pump when first turning the key (cars and bikes). Even when starting the bike the fuel pump is running so there's no need for priming.

You really need to trouble-shoot that 20A fuse issue! I don't want your next post to be about a fire!! Definitely don't bypass the fuse, it's popping for a reason -- some people actually do bypass a fuse...ignorance may be bliss but losing a vehicle because of it is stupid. I highly recommend the MOSFET R/R (do a search on it if you're not familiar with it) as well. Mine is still going so strong that I never think about it except when threads like this pop up.
 

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Definitely sounds electrical, and sounds like you've got a short to ground somewhere. Pull the headlight and check the plug. My stock one was almost melted through many miles ago, even with a stock bulb. The stock wires are woefully thin. Definitely check the voltage of the battery with the bike off, bike on, and starting to get an idea of charge and condition. The blowing fuse is a big concern.

Side note, I would think running high beams would take load OFF the regulator because it would be less heat for it to try and shed. I'm still on the stock regulator at 55,000+ miles, but I did add heat tape to the underside of my seat because I could feel the burn through the seat, and drilled a couple cooling holes in the front of the seat pan to help cooling.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So it looks like now I can only start the bike when I jump it. The fuse for the headlight is no longer popping but now my brake light doesn't engage yet it still glows. I'm going to check the positive to the starter and the negative to the ground to see if there's a difference in voltage. I'm also going to check the wire harness of the headlight and will see what I can find. I think I blew the ballast for the brake light. As far as the regulator, the wiring harness seems unburned. That fuse was constantly popping so right now, I'm narrowing it down to a short towards the headlight and the voltage R/R.
 

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So it looks like now I can only start the bike when I jump it. The fuse for the headlight is no longer popping but now my brake light doesn't engage yet it still glows. I'm going to check the positive to the starter and the negative to the ground to see if there's a difference in voltage. I'm also going to check the wire harness of the headlight and will see what I can find. I think I blew the ballast for the brake light. As far as the regulator, the wiring harness seems unburned. That fuse was constantly popping so right now, I'm narrowing it down to a short towards the headlight and the voltage R/R.
Dude.. your local to me. want help?
 

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I'm having starting problems again. Lights work, engine diagnostic still runs normal, I hear the "sigh" from the fuel tank, and I have gas in the tank. Consistently, the 20A fuse is busting, taking out my headlight. The brake light still glows but now doesn't shine bright when the brakes are applied. I checked the ballast and didn't find any noticeable damage. I tried switching bulbs but no solution.

Reading about voltage regulator issues related to the lack of cooling it gets, I think that might be the problem. With the MotoCreations BoomTube exhaust, the bike sits really hot but the engine temp stays at 190. I notice tons of heat coming from under my ass so I'm thinking the regulator is experiencing too much heat. I checked the wires near the regulator and found that they are still "un-burned."

If this is the voltage regulator, is that covered under warranty as "defective?" She's a 2008 and I don't remember if I bought extended coverage. If not, how much does this piece cost?

Any insight?
i could be wrong but if it is the regulator i doubt it burned out because of the new exhaust. i also have the motocreations exhaust and have ran it for the past year (through some serious heat) without regulator failure. my prior regulator burned out with the stock exhaust installed. that said, the motocreations exhaust does run very hot.
 

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Well now my 06 SC wont start, Ive been starting it in the garage during the winter months to keep things in order, It's on a battery tender And I'd disconnect it, Start it, run it for awhile shut it down reconnect tender never a problem. Now turn the key, No Lights, No Crank. Checked cables cleaned and reinstalled. I cant afford a dealer at this time. And my voltmeter is on the fritz. I replaced the RR quite some time ago, gonna try to jump with car battery. But until then what could cause from one day to the next not start?
 

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Well now my 06 SC wont start, Ive been starting it in the garage during the winter months to keep things in order, It's on a battery tender And I'd disconnect it, Start it, run it for awhile shut it down reconnect tender never a problem. Now turn the key, No Lights, No Crank. Checked cables cleaned and reinstalled. I cant afford a dealer at this time. And my voltmeter is on the fritz. I replaced the RR quite some time ago, gonna try to jump with car battery. But until then what could cause from one day to the next not start?
Check your battery first. I have had batteries go bad, even with them being on battery tenders. How old is your battery?
 
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