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im looking 2012 1200 pikes peak that the owner says due to the rear caliber not being bled properly (was not bled upside down) shows the abs light on the dash. this sound plausible? what else can I check to see what causing the light to be on
thx
allen
 

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Tell him to bleed it right and have the light reset before you buy it, if that's the reason he will otherwise can get expensive
 

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I would say no.
The ABS light would usually be on if one of the speed sensors is dirty / faulty. Wosrt case - ABS computer has been lunched.
Personally I would avoid it unless you have endless cash supplies or it's very cheap to purchase.
If it's as easy to fix as he says, he'll do it to sell it.
 

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IIRC, one common cause can be a small cut/break in the line along the path to the sensor, particularly in exposed areas and other areas prone to movement or tight bends. The ABS light will stay on until the bike is moving (+5mph IIRC).
 

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When my Monster back brake quits working and the lever goes to the stop and does nothing at all, it does not affect the ABS light. It goes of as soon as I start rolling, like usual The back brake is so crappy even when it works, I see no reason for it to have ABS.
 

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Really?

I wouldn't even consider a PP because of the lack of electronic suspension.
That's funny, i much rather have old school ohlins than any electronic type of suspension on any of my bikes any day
 

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The seller is likely full of it, the ABS light won't come on because of a lack of brake pressure, it will come on with a faulty pump or sensor, or maybe, as others have said, a cut/ snagged/broken sensor wire.....

I'd suggest a pre purchase inspection to get a diagnosis if you want this particular bike and the seller is reasonable and negotiable with the fault, otherwise walk away and look elsewhere.

Anyone selling anything with a dash light on is likely selling it BECAUSE the dash light is on and it's going to be expensive to fix......
 

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Won't the light go out after a short ride? I've had mine on the center stand messsing around cleaning moving the wheels (while running by hand ) And the abs light came on then went out after a short ride. If he says just put some tape over the light. Walk away.
 

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The ABS light stays on until the bike moves (about) 5 metres, If ABS turned on in menu ABS light goes out after moving. If ABS light flashes ABS disabled via menu or ABS is not working. Digital owners manuals are available somewhere on the Ducati website (forget exact location🤯).
977772
ABS.png
 

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Does the speedometer work? AFAIK The rear sensor supplies signal for the speedo. ABS fault can be produced by a lot of things. Need to get the codes read at a dealer. No place for guessing. Brakes are important.
 

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Could it be caused by air somehow being in the ABS system ? If so this would be my guess. If an air bubble is in the ABS controller box (where all the lines go for computer ABS type magic before heading to the caliper) would this cause a fault. If the rear brake functions fine then an air bubble is absent and I am out of ideas other than a fault in the electronics. Thankfully the rear brake on my Hyper is as simple as a rock.

The rear brake (mostly non functional ) on my Monster however does not have an ABS light for what is surely air in the system. Maybe air near the caliper and not in the fancy pants ABS area ??
 

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I have a 2012 Multistrada 1200S and this guide has helped me incredibly:


Having said that, I looked through it for a similar issue with mine and found that the hall sensors are easily damaged, must be "perfectly clean," and are not affected by the rest of the brake system.

I also want to mention that I was riding with no rear brake for awhile because there was so much air in that part of the circuit. I never had an ABS light come on. I bled it (upside down), and the rear braking came back. A few weeks later, the ABS light came on. I haven't been able to troubleshoot, but it doesn't seem to be related to how the brake was bled. I think the hall sensors are just easily thrown off.

In short, I'll bet that the hall sensor was damaged or got dirty during the brake maintenance and it now is receiving inconsistent readings. I don't think it's air in the line or how it was bled.
 
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