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Why Dynojet numbers are always wrong

23547 Views 48 Replies 26 Participants Last post by  cst
Since we are in the post-Christmas slump I thought I would post something that would perk everyone up.

I found an interesting article in Sports Car International about Dynojet dynamometers. Take a look.

I have come back to motorcycling after a long absence and all of this reliance on dyno charts is new to me. It's pretty amusing watching the manufacturers make outlandish claims for their bikes (an R6 makes 133hp? In what universe?). I have read various anecdotes of that how Dynojets seem to give high readings but I never saw proof.

This article explains how things got to where they are, and the source is none other than the creator of the Dynojet himself. To summarize the long article, a Dynojet measures hp by using a weighted roller. Because the roller weight is known the amount of energy necessary to accelerate it can be calculated. From there it is a fairly simple matter to convert to horsepower.

What is missing from the equation is that in addition to overcoming the inertia of the weighted roller, an engine also has to overcome the weight of the pistons, crankshaft, flywheel, transmission, chain, wheel and tire. Obviously a Harley with a 240 tire has a lot more spinning weight and resists acceleration much more than say, an Aprilia RS 250.

The original Dynojet was indexed to a 1985 1200cc Yamaha V-Max. As a result a Dynojet will give high power readings for any bike with a lower spinning weight. Which is to say, nearly all of them. How convenient for Dynojet.

This also may explain why the Ducati twins consistently post lower horsepower figures than the I-4s. I found some figures for Ducs and the I-4s on the website of Factory Pro dynos. These use an electric motor to measure the engine power and claim it to be more accurate. The Factory Pro is also much more expensive which might explain why dealers buy Dynojet. (Or maybe dealers want to show artificially high figures too.) http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html

Look, I really don't care which bike makes the most horsepower. I ride a 749s and I'll be the first to admit that I can't use all the power on the street. Although IMHO I don't think that Valentino could either unless he wanted to seriously endanger his life, and he's too smart for that. Besides, he could kick my ass on a Vespa. As we enter yet another year of winter bike tests and endless comparisons, claims, and counterclaims I thought it would be fun to get this discussion going.

So here are the questions for all the motorcycle savants out there in Ducati land. Is the article BS? Does anyone know the engine and drivetrain weight/inertia difference between a 1985 Yamaha V-Max and a 999? The difference between a 999 and a GSXR? Why hasn't someone measured this in all these years? Are Factory Pro dynos truly more accurate?

Thanks everyone.


Marc
749s

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WOuldn't be much good if they COULDN'T measure torque/HP while in constant load, eh! :) :)
OldBaldy said:
WOuldn't be much good if they COULDN'T measure torque/HP while in constant load, eh! :) :)
Well, they don't! But I suppose others have pointed out where and when the DJ dyno is useful.
mbohn said:
Well, they don't! But I suppose others have pointed out where and when the DJ dyno is useful.
I think the point of the article is that a DynoJet isn't very useful at all. It looks like DynoJet did a classic engineering tradeoff. At the time it was created the existing dynos were expensive because they had to have something to absorb all the torque and measure it accurately (such as a large electric motor).

DynoJet figured out that a heavy roller would absorb the torque also. By knowing the inertia of the roller they could just do the math and calculate torque, and measuring the hp is easy since it's just torque x rpm. All that sounds great in theory, and it made for an inexpensive dyno.

DJ uses a roller that is the same weight for all bikes from an Aprilia RS 125 to a Gold Wing. By physics it produces wrong figures unless the total weight and rotating weight of the bike matches whatever they used for their prototype in picking the roller weight.

So it seems DynoJet did this knowing the power figures would be wrong in every case, but the benefit was a dyno that dealers could actually afford. On the whole that's not a bad tradeoff. My bathroom scale isn't as accurate as a lab scale, but I'm OK with that because I'm not willing to pay $5000 for a lab scale to weigh my fat butt.

Beyond this, the article brings up two other key points. First, DJ can only accurately measure torque and hp under acceleration. Since the dyno can't measure steady rpm power then tuning is limited to only full throttle applications.

In addition DynoJet admits to simply gaming the numbers and adding 15% or so to every calculation it does.

So the way I see it you could call a DynoJet "useful" if what you want to do is a before-and-after comparison of a modification and you want to test under full throttle only. For everything else it's worthless. We can't compare bike-to-bike because all bikes have different weight and rotating inertia. We can't do comparisons on different DynoJets on different days, or in different locations, or with different operators.

It doesn't accurately measure torque and hp. It's not even close. Rather than calling the results horsepower, we should call it "DynoJet units."

I'm fine with all that but the mags should be clear that the numbers are BS rather than just print them like they mean something.

Marc
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MarcP said:
Since the dyno can't measure steady rpm power then tuning is limited to only full throttle applications.
MarcP said:
...For everything else it's worthless.
I'm with you on everything except the quotes above. You can tune to a/f at any rpm/tps setting you like. I think that is pretty useful.
BTW, is it really that difficult and expensive to connect an eddy current generator to the drum to absorb the power? Or for that matter a water brake? It doesn't seem like that is the case.
The older DJ100/150 models can be upgraded to 250 status with an eddy current absorber. (~$8000) The DJ250 has a provision built in to add a load cell to the absorber. You can buy everything needed from DJ and it integrates into their software to give you "real" torque readings for step and hold tuning. I'm investigating various means to add it (a load cell, one way or another) to the 250 that I use.
mbohn said:
Well, they don't! But I suppose others have pointed out where and when the DJ dyno is useful.
This is interesting. Is this confirmed? The DJ250 with absorption cannot actually measure the torque at the steady state? I was not aware of this.
If this is true, one can use it for setting the af to a predetermined level at a steady state RPM/TPS, but not actually measure if the resulting mixture provides the best HP at that matrix point? Wow....this is even more limiting than I thought. So how do they actually create a map at less than 100% TPS - they go through each TPS % at a time in inertia mode, and plot the approximate torque/HP through the individual acceleration runs that that TPS %?

How does one then ignore any acceleration factors in the ECU dwell calculations - use only a 4th or 5th gear run, and hope that the acceleration rate does not invoke an ECU acceleration enrichment algorythm?

Jeez, no wonder Marc throws mud at this stuff. :)

I'll stick to my on-the-road wbo2 data logging for maps... ;)
I did a complete map about 1.5 years ago on my BMW with an aftermarket ecu on a DJ. I told the operator where to go in terms of rpm and tps and he adjusted the dyno to hold that point. We then looked at a/f and I adjusted the fueling at that rpm/tps point to get the a/f I wanted. We then moved on to the next point in the map. I was told that we could not extract torque for these points, that that only could come from a "pull" (using the inertial method). Maybe that has changed since then. I don't really see why if you have to supply the current to hold the rpms fixed that you can't measure it and calculate torque.
but not actually measure if the resulting mixture provides the best HP at that matrix point?
Yes, that is correct from my experience with DJ.

So how do they actually create a map at less than 100% TPS - they go through each TPS % at a time in inertia mode, and plot the approximate torque/HP through the individual acceleration runs that that TPS %?
As I said by running rpm/tps points in the map and adjusting a/f to the "desired" value. This value is supposedly the one that gives best torque. In my case the operator recommended a value, 13.2 I recall, and we went for that. Except for wot, there is no confirmation unless you want to do pulls at part throttle. So maybe what we are saying is that trusting that the operator knows that a/f to use for max torque is the weak link in this method, or you have to start iterating between pulls and the a/f adjustment.

How does one then ignore any acceleration factors in the ECU dwell calculations - use only a 4th or 5th gear run, and hope that the acceleration rate does not invoke an ECU acceleration enrichment algorythm?
If you are talking about accel/decel enrichment, this method doesn't do that at all. I suppose there are two choices: (i) identify poor accel/decel points on the road and adjust from there, or (ii) see how the bike responds in the fixed rpm mode on the dyno when the tps is opened up. In my case I used (i) because with the system I was using it was easy to adjust a bad accel/decel point using an on-board Palm or when I got home with the main software running on a PC.
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OldBaldy said:
How does one then ignore any acceleration factors in the ECU dwell calculations - use only a 4th or 5th gear run, and hope that the acceleration rate does not invoke an ECU acceleration enrichment algorythm?
I'm not sure about piggyback computers, but on standalone computers there is often a 2D graph for each of several variables used to multiply the base pulse width. You can temporarily turn most of them to a straight line at 1X, tune for A/F and MTBT, then change the graphs back to original settings and have a fairly good start on complete mapping. Slightly off topic. Carry on.
markmakeitso said:
I'm not sure about piggyback computers, but on standalone computers there is often a 2D graph for each of several variables used to multiply the base pulse width. You can temporarily turn most of them to a straight line at 1X, tune for A/F and MTBT, then change the graphs back to original settings and have a fairly good start on complete mapping. Slightly off topic. Carry on.
Good info. What software would that be on?

Not sure if this is available on the DJ software, but it's not in the PCiii app, and regardless, having to run an inertia run for HP points across the RPM range means that even if you turn off the enrichment for acceleration, you still have the impact of the effect of the actual acceleration on mixture requirement - so you miss the enrichment that occurs when running normally during acceleration, and thus your numbers are off - all this because the DJ seemingly cannot measure TQ/HP in the steady state. hmmmm.. :)
We have a DJ 150 (for sale!) and a Factory Pro. Dynojet had a great idea originally with using inertia to build a low cost dyno and they actually fought against eddy current dynos until a few years ago. Their 250i comes with a brake but your still saddled with the heavy drum. We opted for the Factory Pro because it has the lightest drum and it uses a four gas analyzer. DJ uses O2 to then calculate a theoretical air/fuel ratio. We find that looking at the four gases and their relationship helps not just in tuning but in identifying potential issues.

Ultimately they're all tools. They won't do the job for you. It's up to the operator to use them effectively.
I personally got a bike that IS underpowered for i's displacement... more fun to build, and more fun to pass with on a track. And in the process have built a wonderfully performing bike... all of my tests have been on the dyno, and while it doesn't leg out on zx-10r's, they way I figure is this... if ALL machines are Dyno-tested, then ALL machines are the same amount of inaccuracy, so everyone is blissfully wrong together...
I can live with that.
Matter-Of-Fact said:
The way I figure is this... if ALL machines are Dyno-tested, then ALL machines are the same amount of inaccuracy, so everyone is blissfully wrong together...
I can live with that.
It seems the article makes the point that all dynos don't have the same amount of inaccuracy. DynoJet way overstates the numbers. Whatever Dyno Yamaha uses overstates them even more. Look at the Factory Pro website. There is a listing for their tests on various bikes. Look at a number for say, an R6, and compare the Factory Pro number to the DJ number to the factory number.

Another problem is that one figure is for actual rear wheel horsepower, another will attempt to guesstimate what it would be at the crank, another will guesstimate what it will be at the wristpin with "ram air" at 240mph. The result is a mess, with the only winner being the company or operator who is most willing to game the figures.

Too bad the magazines play along. When I was a kid there was a new magazine called Dirt Bike Magazine. They had a no-bullshit policy and pissed off a lot of people, but also became a very popular mag. I wish some sportbike mag would do the same.
OldBaldy said:
Good info. What software would that be on?

Not sure if this is available on the DJ software, but it's not in the PCiii app, and regardless, having to run an inertia run for HP points across the RPM range means that even if you turn off the enrichment for acceleration, you still have the impact of the effect of the actual acceleration on mixture requirement - so you miss the enrichment that occurs when running normally during acceleration, and thus your numbers are off - all this because the DJ seemingly cannot measure TQ/HP in the steady state. hmmmm.. :)
That's mostly from my limited experience on the MBE controllers used in Formula SCCA cars. My school spent some time attempting to fix some half-assed mapping (not done by SCCA Enterprises). It's been awhile, but I think there were graphs for coolant temp, time running, air temp, and acceleration enrichment. Probably a cranking modifier too. It's an open loop system, so there weren't any long or short term feedback maps to worry about, making them pretty similar to lots of injected bike computers. I believe they're fairly cheap also, perhaps easier to get into than a MegaSquirt or other similar controller.

As for the enrichment on acceleration, using a high gear can often hold acceleration to moderate levels, reducing the variations due to VE changes, fuel dropout, and resonance tuning.
Just to follow up on my previous post to this thread a bit, I found out from DJ that the torque cell upgrade for the 250 series dynos is $2200. That's a lot of $$ for stupid load cell and a bit of software, so I think I'm going to buy one of these instead and use it:

eBay #180074041800

Obviously the readout won't be integrated into the DJ software, but at least I will be able to look at "real/live" torque readings while doing eddy current/loaded mapping. All that needs to be done is add a couple threaded rod ends to the load cell and it should bolt straight into the dyno. Maybe a bit of calibration, and poof! The $200 solution!
Related to the original post, Superflow dynos are one of the best around. They measure SAE horsepower, the accepted and most accurate standard, which reads considerably lower than a DJ. For instance, an R1 will put out around 110-120 hp in SAE numbers. Some 1000s can crack 130. Nowhere near the 140-160hp numbers touted on most dynos for litrebikes.

But the nice thing about the Superflow is it will give you DJ numbers as well - so you get a curve showing SAE hp and DJ hp, so you don't have to do any conversion for the less accurate but more common DJ figure. So my old SV650 made 64.5 SAE hp and 75 DJ hp on the same dyno, on the same run.

Yes, Superflow dynos are expensive. They incorporate sniffer units, ram-air systems, an engine brake roller, and meteorological stations to correct for atmospheric conditions. Hence why they aren't common or accepted.
Wake up, you sleeping thread! :)

On the Superflow / "DJ" HP number "conversion" issue -

It's VERY approximate.

First: The Basis for inconsistent DJ hp

Cycle Canada tested several different dj dynos and got a 5% or 7% "range" of readings on 3 different bikes on 3 different dj dynos.

Dynojet hp "conversion":

Superflow ran some bikes on their dyno and 1 dj dyno and made an equation that factored up the readings to read about what that dj said on whatever few bikes they ran.
In Superflow's estimation, their DJ channel is +/- 10% of a DJ number.
So -
85 True hp on a SF = ~100 djhp + ~15%, that's 115 and a +/- 5%-7% range depending on the dj dyno you are comparing to. So a DJ might read 110 to 120 djhp, with an average being 115.

If all you want is a "bigger number", maybe their Dj HP channel is good, but, not up to any standards.
...........................

As far as dynos, the SF is a great dyno - but they are by no means the easiest "tuning" dyno, unless you use them in the simplest fashion - unloaded Sweep Test with an O2 sensor. And then, you are only "tuning to an AFR.

There are others that include better tuning features, like better drive rollers for better traction and integrated high speed 4 gas EGA's (instead of a simple wide band "AFR") and quicker setup features.
...................................
DJ HP scale numbers

Funny thing is, that I found the Cycle magazine that had the "V Max magazine test bike" sleeper in a comparison article.

It made 119 Real HP on a brake dyno, with "chain drive to the dyno" (no rear tire).
That 119 might be a bit skewed, but a gs1150 and FJ1100 made a touch over 100, an 1100 Sabre and Ninja 900 made mid 90's. And "they" sound about "OK", when you subtract 8 to 10 hp for the tire.

In reality, a stock V Max (the one you and I could buy) made about 95 True (measured at the rear wheel, on an EC997 dyno, that I know is correct)

So -
the V Max they tested, chain drive w/o the aprox. 10 hp loss from tire flex made:
119 - 10 or, 109 True (with the rear tire)

A real, store bought V Max makes maybe 95 (with the rear tire).

That means (using a few minor leaps of faith) that Cycle mag got a VMax that made 109 hp (if measured with a tire, at the rear wheel) and a normal VMax really made about 14 hp less (109 sleeper less 95 real bike = ~13%.
Or maybe it's 20% - 24 hp difference / 119 sleeper hp -
So - the DJ inflation is based on a sleeper bike's reported hp vs. a real dealer bike and they didn't want their dyno to read lower than the Kerker dyno -
Not knowing they were comparing their dealer bought bike to a sleeper.

WOW. There's the difference. With a path to their HP scale madness. In order to make a real VMax read high like the magazine bike, they arbitrarily inflated the "real" rear wheel (with a tire) hip up to where it matched the sleeper.

I do know a bit more -
When DJ first brought out their dyno, it read VERY VERY high - at Daytona, a cbr600, with just the addition of a pipe, it showed more power at the rear wheel than Honda claimed at the crank! Those original Super High dj numbers sort of meandered down with software changes as it was obvious that the numbers were so high that only uniformed took them seriously.
That I remember.

So, the arbitrary DJHP scale, as Dobeck admitted, was actually related to a "sleeper bike's" "maybe enhanced" engine...
So.... we are stuck with inflated HP figures until the SAE or FTC looks into it.

So - now - this post will be buried deep down in the Internet's nether regions.... <wink!>

Cheers!

Marc
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sae is just a correction factor, dynojet offers it as one of the 4 to choose from. sae and eec gives the lowest number, std and din the highest. it's about 3hp per every 100hp difference as a general rule ime.

i'd expect any correctly calibrated brake dyno to give the same result (within a very small margin) as it's an absolute - the load required to stop a particular engine accelerating. roller grip is probably the biggest factor is the load cell calibration is correct.

inferring hp from the acceleration of a rotating drum is different, no less useful ime, but different. dynojet have done a great marketing job with two different products - chassis dynos and power commanders. they may not be the best way of doing stuff, but they are common and useful enough and that helps. seems many brake dyno manufacturer have been running this "dynojet is wrong" thing simply as a way of competing and differentiating with dynojet, because dynojet is so accepted that it's simply them feeling like they have to use the put down the competition marketing principle.

which says more about dynojet's marketing than anything else. they're very, very good at selling stuff, and in a free consumer society once you have deep market penetration your version of the truth becomes fact. kind of like politics or religion i guess.

a graph from the dyno i use (dj200?) and one owned by the company who does a manufacturer national superbike team out here (250). bike is an ex aust superbike MV 312R, run on the dyno i usually use to see what it made then run on the other to see if it was a comparative dud or not. the dyno i use has a fairly smooth roller these days, but it's the only dyno i use so that doesn't matter for me. only when someone has paid a lot of money based on someone else's power claim from an interstate dyno. bike was untouched between the two runs, done on different days.

altho the dyno i use and the quite new dyno at ducati city were within 1hp for my 75hp 750m and 3 or 4 for a 145hp 1098.

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The Dynojet dynos are good for setting up your fuel injection. They are also good for comparing bike to bike readings. Checking on modifications that you've done. Stuff like that.

But what about those Desmosedici guys that are griping because their bikes only have 186 hp? Waaaaaaaaaaahhhhh.
SAE isn't a HP scale.

SAE and EEC are simply standardized correction factors for "non-standard" ATMOSPHERIC conditions. They are small.
The "standard" for "standard air"is SAE's call or the EU's call or whoever's standard you want to use.

What atmospheric "Correction factors" are supposed to do, is to allow for higher or lower atmospheric values and calculates what the power "would be" if it was 59f/0% humidity and 29.92 baro, if we were using SAE J1995 standard.

That way, you can compare runs made a somewhat different atmospheric conditions.
Otherwise you'd need a temperature, pressure and humidity controlled room and air supply to compare runs.

As far as different hp numbers obtained when using SAE (which one?), EEC, DIN Correction factors?
Each has it's own idea of what "Standard air" is and will correct slightly differently. The math is a bit different, too.

Any time there's a correction factor applied to the actual power a run, it should say "SAE J1995" or "EEC" or whatever factor used. If it's SAE, it needs to say which SAE Correction factor it used, as there's more than one.

At any rate, all these ATMOSPHERIC Correction factors are usually a percentage of 0% to around 3% (up or down from ACTUAL hp) - not 10% to 15%+ as is the difference between True and djhp.

At least with "True HP" - ANY dyno company can provide comparable numbers. With djhp, the "other" dyno companies stumble around and guess about some "secret inflater decoder ring" - and sometimes it's kinda close and sometimes it's not.

Don't expect any Brake dyno to replicate a dynojet number unless the dyno mfgr or user fudges the number up.
Sorry, that's well known in the non-dj world -

There's an article in MCN coming out.

Thanks -

Marc
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And you should always stick with 1 dyno. Make sure it's SAE, Smooth 5, 1.00 correction factor.

Never compare numbers from dyno to dyno. Way to many variables, completely pointless.

But to accurate, you would have to take 2 dyno's, same parameters, same calibrations set on above said dyno's, and dyno said bike in exact same temperature and humidity to get a matching number. Really, it ain't going to happen.

But stay with one dyno when doing all mods. Just make sure the parameters are the same (see line 1 above), and try to keep the bike consistant ( I always do a fresh oil change, clean chain, and 45 psi in the rear tire). The more you make consistant, on the bike and the dyno, the better you can see any results.

Always get an air/fuel ratio.
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