[pparana]

Thinking of swapping wheels to those from a 06 st3, are these plug and play or will I also need st3 brakes and spaces axle ext?

Thanks for the imput.

 

[Spezjag]

Should be pretty much a direct swap - do a search and see if any others have done it and whether spacers were needed.

 

[redrover]

pparana -
i'd also be really interested in how this goes for you.... please post pics 'n how it went after. would love to see it!

 

[RudolphHart]

This thread may be if interest. I have 5-spoke Marchesinis on my GT1000, same wheels as fitted to the ST4 range. I'm not sure if the ST3 & ST4 used the same wheels. Haven't changed any aspect of the braking system:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=74918

 

[tsmgguy]

I'm not dead certain, but I believe the wheels of all SC models to be completely interchangable, 2006 to present. Don't know about ST wheels. Here are a few notes on the job in general. Hope that you find them useful.

You won't have to break the chain on the GT, just drop the wheel to the ground, roll it forward, and remove the chain from the rear sprocket to the left.

It took me about three hours to do the whole job, and I really work slow. An extra pair of hands is really useful when reinstalling the rear wheel assembly.

You will have to remove your front fender. This is easy.

I assume that you'll be swapping your own rotor discs, front and rear. This is a bear as the rotor bolts are REALLY torqued and further secured with green loctite. It is almost impossible to reuse the bolts as the head of at least one will be boogered beyond redemption! I ordered new titanium bolts from TPO, further reducing unsprung weight. Or, you can order a new set of stock bolts from Ducati. If you go the titanium route, don't forget to reinstall the new bolts with a good anti-sieze compound. I like "Ti-prep". (You MUST use steel bolts for the rear disc as they are what is read by your speedo sensor.)

The cushion drive from your GT (39T) will slide right on. IIRC, the stock rear sprocket on your "new " wheels is 40T.

Protect your componants with plenty of towels, or rags, or whatever, or you'll end of with lots of little preventable dings and scrapes!

This was the best mod that I've done to the bike so far. I was going to completely replace the suspension after switching out the wheels, but now I like the ride and handling just fine, and so never did it. Suspension compliance is now excellent. The bike no longer has a tendency to head slap either. The wheels look just right, too.

GT1000 torque values, in Nm (and Ft. Lbs.): Brake disc bolts, 24 (18); front axle, 63 (47); Rear axle, 150 (111).

Go for it!

 

[MajorSoftie]

As tsmgguy says, yes, all SC wheels interchange, but that is not what pparana asked about. He is asking about ST wheels.

No, the front is not plug and play, although the rear is. The front hub will be narrower than the SC hub, so, different axle spacing is required, and the rotors will be too close together for the stock brake calipers. This can be solved by spacing the rotors out, spacing the calipers in, changing to different calipers, or changing to rotors with a different offset.

 

[fazerian]

Wheels

I've put 5 spokes on my GT, front is off a ST2 and rear from an ST4S,
The rear was a straight swap. For the front I needed a ST axle and a speedo drive spacer, it also means the stock calipers won't fit unless you space them out by 5mm or alternatively space the rotors out by 5mm. The other solution,which is what I did, is to fit 4 pot calipers from a 748. Good luck!

 

[RudolphHart]

No, the front is not plug and play, although the rear is. The front hub will be narrower than the SC hub, so, different axle spacing is required, and the rotors will be too close together for the stock brake calipers. This can be solved by spacing the rotors out, spacing the calipers in, changing to different calipers, or changing to rotors with a different offset.

+1 on this. My bike (with 5-spoke Marchesinis as per ST4) now has an S2R front spindle & the rotors are now those normally fitted to a 748R.

 

[glenndesmo]

Hi,

So I gather the 748R rotors have a different offset to a normal 748/996/998?
Where did you purchase the speedo spacer?

What tires are you running out of interest.

Regards

Glenn

 

[fazerian]

spacer

I got the spacer from Ducati depot

 

[fazerian]

I've been running Dunlop roadsmart tyres, great all round and excellent tyre life

 

[SanDiego]

I got spacer from here for $6.99
http://www.mbsmfg.com/duspsp.html
I swaped mine wheels with set from ST2. Rear is direct bolt on, front is NOT. You will need new axle and brakes. You can get them on ebay for low $$. Let me know if you need more details.

Hi,

So I gather the 748R rotors have a different offset to a normal 748/996/998?
Where did you purchase the speedo spacer?

What tires are you running out of interest.

Regards

Glenn

 

[NExE]

This can be solved by spacing the rotors out, spacing the calipers in, changing to different calipers, or changing to rotors with a different offset.

Searching [email protected] & Classifieds for some 3 or 5 Spoke cast wheels, to run tubeless and loose some High Effort stearing.

Question: What is easier (better, safer.) Shimming the Calipers in, or the Rotors out?

 

[MajorSoftie]

They are equally safe if you acquire the proper length bolts for the additional distance. Each has it's advantages.

If you shim the rotors, then you can trade to your stock wheels and everything will still align. Wheel installation will also be easier.

If you shim the calipers, then you will find it very difficult (or impossible) to mount the wheels without removing the pads and replacing them after you install the wheels, but the shims themselves are much simpler, smaller, and more hidden.

So, basically, shimmed calipers are easier to do and prettier, and shimmed rotors are easier to live with.

 

[RudolphHart]

Hi,

So I gather the 748R rotors have a different offset to a normal 748/996/998?
Where did you purchase the speedo spacer?

What tires are you running out of interest.

Regards

Glenn

I'm not sure about the offset of 748R rotors compared with normal 748/996/998 rotors. I spoke with a dealer in the UK who happened to have some new parts in stock including the S2R spindle & the 748R rotors.
These parts had been in stock for some time so they were happy to strike a deal on them.

I also run Dunlop Roadsmarts, I swapped from the OEM Michelin Pilot Classics (now obsolete) and I'm very pleased with the Dunlops.

 

[glenndesmo]

Thanks,

With the replacement of the stock brakes to 4 piston 2 pad did you replace the master cylinder too?

Thanks

Glenn

 

[st2lemans]

I'm not sure about the offset of 748R rotors compared with normal 748/996/998 rotors.

Normal is 10mm, 748R is 15mm, i.e. 5mm more.

Tom

 

[SanDiego]

I did not replace master cylinder. I also kept original brake lines. You might find old brake lines a bit too long and sticking out.

Thanks,

With the replacement of the stock brakes to 4 piston 2 pad did you replace the master cylinder too?

Thanks

Glenn

 

[ps1k]

you do not have to take the pads out.
is it a pain in the ass? yes
shimming the rotors looks and works 100 times better
we made a run of ten sets a while back.
i my still have a set or two.
if not the guy i sold my PS to has 4 sets of them.

They are equally safe if you acquire the proper length bolts for the additional distance. Each has it's advantages.

If you shim the rotors, then you can trade to your stock wheels and everything will still align. Wheel installation will also be easier.

If you shim the calipers, then you will find it very difficult (or impossible) to mount the wheels without removing the pads and replacing them after you install the wheels, but the shims themselves are much simpler, smaller, and more hidden.

So, basically, shimmed calipers are easier to do and prettier, and shimmed rotors are easier to live with.

 

[MajorSoftie]

you do not have to take the pads out.
is it a pain in the ass? yes

We've been over the pad issue before. I had to remove mine. Your previous comments were why I did not simply say he definitely would have to pull the pads. I was acknowledging that someone had a different experience than myself. Perhaps you could do the same.

I do not know why I could not accomplish this while you could. Possibilities are: my EBC pads might be slightly different than the stockers, my pads were brand new so perhaps they couldn't be pushed far enough apart, slight differences in tolerances between bikes or shims(I was SO close to being able to do it).

shimming the rotors looks and works 100 times better
we made a run of ten sets a while back.

Could you explain "looks . . . 100 times better?" The caliper shims I made for my GT were completely invisible once installed on the bike. As far as "works 100 times better," I will agree that the results of rotor shimming are more convenient, but "works 100 times better" sounds like just a bit of an exaggeration.