Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Premium Member
1997 748
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all. I bought my 748 last summer to get back into riding. I intended to ride some, and do a lot of wrenching as well. I love the bike, but find I don't particularly enjoy riding around town so I've been going to trackdays and I'm just going to run the thing on the track I think. It's a great learning track bike for me, mostly because it's nimble but not too powerful so a bit harder to get myself into trouble. That said, it's plenty fast for me at the moment. I'm very happy to find more speed in the corners and by riding better in general at the moment.

Anyway, so far I've just done the maintenance stuff but I plan to go through it in detail this winter, including the valvetrain stuff and make sure the engine is doing what it's supposed to. I might want a bit more power as I improve so have looked at the 853 kits, but then again I don't want to put a ton of money into this machine and it's pretty good as is... I'd also like to have a slipper clutch on it...

Would love to hear any advice about what I might consider for a winter refresh of this thing. I love the mechanical part so I'll do all the work myself. Thanks for any help or suggestions.
 

·
Registered
99' 996
Joined
·
366 Posts
How many miles are on it? Short of doing the 853 kit how deep I got into it would depend on how many miles are on the motor. Otherwise would just plan on doing valves and belts, all the fluids, have the forks rebuilt along with the shock. Or upgrade them to Ohlins if yours has Showa on it. Check all the bearings, put a slipper in it. Aside from tearing into the motor there isnt much on these that needs to be upgraded. Its all wants really. What do you want it to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
Bin the 748 motor and buy a 1198 to drop in her. Great winter project and power by the bucket load at the end!.....go on.....do it!! 👍
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,893 Posts
ducabike do a slipper that has the slipper springs inside the main springs, and you get 3 rates so can tune it easily. they're great.

apart from that, just make it light and fix the suspension.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,165 Posts
Get some lighter wheels and a lightweight Shorai battery for it.
Bingo... The Shorai alone shaves almost 10 Lbs off of the OEM Yuasa. Another 7 or 8 by going from the 5 spoke AL Marchesini's to MG. And depending on whether or not you go with a full or half set of CF Termi's you can cut between 8 and 11.

Oh yeah, just remembered another big offender... the rear mud guard has a molded in place steel bracket to stiffen the entire unit enough to suspend the turn signals, license plate bracket and light. It weighs about 7 or 8 lbs IIRC. I replaced mine with a CF undertail unit that tips the scales at under a pound.
Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Product Motor vehicle

Front mud guard, air runners tubes, etc. etc., all can be replace with lightweight racing CF. Of all of the lightweighting steps I took with mine however, it was the swap to the MG wheels that felt the most transformative. It literally felt like a different, and much more nimble bike after that.

Edit: That pic above is from the 2012 rebuild, a year or so after I got it. It took me a minute to realize something... that pic was taken not long after I got the pipes back from Jet-Hot. Do you know what takes balls of steel gentlemen? Buy a brand new 50mm Termi full system, and then drill out the rivets in the cans so that the internals can be coated as well:
Automotive tire Automotive design Camera lens Automotive lighting Camera accessory

Look how shiny and unexposed to carbon they were...
 

·
Registered
99' 996
Joined
·
366 Posts
I have two Shorai's that have been in the bikes for 11 years and still going strong.
They are good batteries, I wont bash them. When I had one in my 996 the only way it would turn the engine over fast enough to start reliably was to have it fresh off the tender and keep it topped off. Even at 80% charge it would turn over slowly, even after replacing all the cables and cleaning up grounds. Even checked the amp draw at the starter to confirm it wasnt the problem because it just didnt seem right. After it died I did some more research and the thing that put me off is their CCA ratings are "equivalent" ratings, whatever that means. Replaced it with the EarthX and even at 80% charge it spins it like a top. On a smaller bike I would buy one again. Was just kind of put off by their advertising.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
I would suggest -
  • Install a 14 tooth front sprocket. Pennies for instant general perkiness and town manners.
  • Attempt removing your swingarm spindle/bolt. If it comes out, make a suitable sacrifice to your favourite deity, then GTF (grease-the-fuck) out of it and reinstall. Otherwise it may will corrode to the big spacer bush and remain fixed in place for all time (don't ask).
  • Check through your wiring loom and dielectric grease the major connectors. Not the big one leading from the reg/rec, that'll just catch fire if you do (again, don't ask). Remove and replace that one with a proper connector.
  • Find some 4-pad Brembo front calipers from a 998S or 999 and install them with some new braided lines. Not a big spend and marvel at the feel of proper braking.
  • All the above suspension servicing stuff, plus see if you can find a good set-up guide (the old Section 8 guide was where I started) and use the built in adjustability of the chassis to fine-tune the handling.
  • I prefer a 180/60 rear tyre, but that might just be me.
 

·
Come in Spinner :)
Joined
·
8,825 Posts
I'd go with 15/43 sprocket setup.
A lightweight alloy clutch like the Sureflex makes it spin up much better too as well as losing some more weight.
 

·
Come in Spinner :)
Joined
·
8,825 Posts
They are good batteries, I wont bash them. When I had one in my 996 the only way it would turn the engine over fast enough to start reliably was to have it fresh off the tender and keep it topped off. Even at 80% charge it would turn over slowly, even after replacing all the cables and cleaning up grounds. Even checked the amp draw at the starter to confirm it wasnt the problem because it just didnt seem right. After it died I did some more research and the thing that put me off is their CCA ratings are "equivalent" ratings, whatever that means. Replaced it with the EarthX and even at 80% charge it spins it like a top. On a smaller bike I would buy one again. Was just kind of put off by their advertising.
Obviously there was something wrong with that battery or it was undersized.
I also have a Shorai on my Hondr (CB750 with a worked Suzuki DR650 high compression single cylinder motor)
Spins it up like a top.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
184 Posts
When I had my 998, the upgrade from OEM wheels to Marchesini forged magnesium was mind blowing. It was worth every penny.
 

·
Premium Member
1997 748
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How many miles are on it? Short of doing the 853 kit how deep I got into it would depend on how many miles are on the motor. Otherwise would just plan on doing valves and belts, all the fluids, have the forks rebuilt along with the shock. Or upgrade them to Ohlins if yours has Showa on it. Check all the bearings, put a slipper in it. Aside from tearing into the motor there isnt much on these that needs to be upgraded. Its all wants really. What do you want it to be.
It's 16k miles. The first 15k I think were well maintained but I can't be totally sure, then it was used sparingly for a few years before I picked it up. I did the belts this summer, and all regular maintenance stuff. I think I want it to be pretty much what it is, only maybe slightly faster (both straightline and cornering) as my riding improves.
 

·
Premium Member
1997 748
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would suggest -
  • Install a 14 tooth front sprocket. Pennies for instant general perkiness and town manners.
  • Attempt removing your swingarm spindle/bolt. If it comes out, make a suitable sacrifice to your favourite deity, then GTF (grease-the-fuck) out of it and reinstall. Otherwise it may will corrode to the big spacer bush and remain fixed in place for all time (don't ask).
  • Check through your wiring loom and dielectric grease the major connectors. Not the big one leading from the reg/rec, that'll just catch fire if you do (again, don't ask). Remove and replace that one with a proper connector.
  • Find some 4-pad Brembo front calipers from a 998S or 999 and install them with some new braided lines. Not a big spend and marvel at the feel of proper braking.
  • All the above suspension servicing stuff, plus see if you can find a good set-up guide (the old Section 8 guide was where I started) and use the built in adjustability of the chassis to fine-tune the handling.
  • I prefer a 180/60 rear tyre, but that might just be me.
Thanks, great suggestions. My reg/rec connector already burned so I've removed it and hardwired. I'll put a better connector in this winter.
 

·
Premium Member
1997 748
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'd go with 15/43 sprocket setup.
A lightweight alloy clutch like the Sureflex makes it spin up much better too as well as losing some more weight.
Sounds like a new clutch should be high on the list
 

·
Premium Member
1997 748
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ducabike do a slipper that has the slipper springs inside the main springs, and you get 3 rates so can tune it easily. they're great.

apart from that, just make it light and fix the suspension.
Lots of replies here about suspension. When you say fix, do you mean make the showa stuff work better, or replace with Ohlins? I have no doubt that my forks and shock could use a rebuild, and then a proper bike setup at minimum.

There was a 996 at salvage auction a few weeks ago that I was hoping to get cheap for the ohlins and wheels, but didn't work out.
 

·
Registered
06 999R RAD02, 06 999R
Joined
·
599 Posts
Lots of replies here about suspension. When you say fix, do you mean make the showa stuff work better, or replace with Ohlins? I have no doubt that my forks and shock could use a rebuild, and then a proper bike setup at minimum.

There was a 996 at salvage auction a few weeks ago that I was hoping to get cheap for the ohlins and wheels, but didn't work out.
I'd look into a cartridge kit for the forks at least and have the suspension setup for your weight.

The one I linked is just an example after a quick google search. Lots of options at various price ranges and from different brands.
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top