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Average Weird Guy.
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Just love the look of that red frame and swingarm with matching red bodywork Smoothduc. :yeah:

Gonna be using that same paint scheme on mine with an all blacked out motor and gold rims.
 

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Premium Member
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454 Posts
Have you considered switching over to radial master cylinders? I think it might help the clearance and they work well. Used superbike (xx98/848) units can be had cheap. Maybe the fairing become an issue, they fit fine on my 93 with stock clip ons.
Thanks Dave G, good suggestion, but I'm coming close to the end of my patience and finances (the Minister of Finance, she who must be obeyed, says I'm well into overdraft) so I'll pass on the radial masters. I've bitten the bullet and tried to make some new brackets to lower the instrument cluster in the support frame. What a job! One thing just leads onto another. I'll keep going and see what I end up with. :eek:

Regards

Muddy
 

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619 Posts
I just placed orders to update the primary electrical system on my 94 CR. The battery was charging at 15.5V and the alternator was outputting 105+ V at 6K RPM. Also trying to correct a slight off idle stumble. Seeing as how everything on the bike is original:

Electrosport Stator
Electrosport R/R (direct to battery version)
Cycleworks Exactfit coil kit
Motowheels battery cable kit

Oh, and prepping for winter maintenance, also picked up a belt set. Any recommendations on an oil filter?

The other Brad
 

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Premium Member
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Today I finished the first half of the electrical update to my 94 CR: R/R Alternator and Regulator including upgraded and soldered mains and direct wiring the regulator to the battery.

I also gutted the PO's alarm from the bike and removed the HID system and put back in a halogen bulb. I'm trying to get back to an electrical base-line on the bike to make any future troubleshooting that much easier. In the process I probably dropped 10 lbs of wires and crap, and fixed a half dozen shoddy splices and connections from both of the removed items.

It's funny - one persons "Great Idea" is anothers' "*%#[email protected]#@ Mess!"

I have more work to do before riding season comes back around to these parts: upgraded starter circuit, Cycleworks Coil/wires/plugs, belts, and hopefully updating the rear end with an aluminum swingarm and and a new Ohlins or Penske shock.

I'm amazed at how well this bike runs, even after being 20 years old. Everything needs to be replaced, but it still feels pretty darned good.

Tomorrow: Heading to The One Show! My girlfriend and I are riding over- me on the SS and she on her '14 Guzzi V7 Racer.
 

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Excel Addict
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5,071 Posts
A pic from a recent foray - only 5 allowed out at a time, so brilliant and still heaps of laps.

Old school riding style - must concentrate on getting my knee out and down. Old dog!

 

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Average Weird Guy.
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1,153 Posts
Old school riding style notwithstanding that's still a cool pic nonetheless Richard.

Plunked down on a shiny new Metmachex aluminum swingarm today. Waiting in giddy anticipation for it to arrive. :)
 

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Premium Member
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222 Posts
recently picked up another FE
today, i poured over tiny details, realizing the prior owner didn't have the wheel lined up right... no big deal.

then realized no brake lights... hmm.

realized the aftermarket rear sets don't have a rear brake switch
found the plug, with nothing attached... thinking without the rear brake switch, the front switch doesn't activate the rear brake light?
 

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.... thinking without the rear brake switch, the front switch doesn't activate the rear brake light?
Not correct. See the attached diagram.

Front brake (#12) and rear brake (#13) are both powered by the purple/black wire.

Each switch is independent and runs towards the brake light via red/grey.

Personally I think the diagram is incorrect after the last connectors as the yellow (tail light power) becomes red/grey out and the red/grey in becomes yellow out.

Maybe drawn on a Friday afternoon after a vino lunch?

Could be the fuse - the horn (#4) is the only other part powered by that fuse.
If it also does not work, then the fuse may be the issue.
 

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Premium Member
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ImageUploadedByMO Free1423975281.548463.jpg
Punch you're awesome at this stuff.
Thank you

I'm kind of cheating. As luck has it, I have another FE to reference, hypothesize, attempt to recreate issues with.

As usuaual, you are correct. The brake switches are separate. Horn works, checked fuses, etc

I'm going thru things now. Maybe it's just the switch. I've cleaned it with electrical cleaner. Perhaps I'll remove the switch from the other bike and give it a try


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View attachment 507434
I'm going thru things now. Maybe it's just the switch. I've cleaned it with electrical cleaner. Perhaps I'll remove the switch from the other bike and give it a try
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Did you test the horn?

Could also be as simple as a blown bulb.

Shallow end first - I am guilty sometimes of deep end first, only to find a problem was really quite simple.
 

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Premium Member
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222 Posts
I'm the same way

Interestingly enough... On the other FE (#339) one night after work... I realized the tail light was out. It had blown, so I replaced it. The next day it was again not working. I took apart the tail light and realized it was simply the prongs in the light assembly not fully contacting the bulb. Easy fix.

This FE (#183) is new to me as I took delivery of it last week I believe. I'm the type to pour over a bike like this, and since it is now my 3rd 900SS, I've grown to know the bike fairly well.

Maybe the switch is broken. Maybe a shipping strap had rubbed into it or something...


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Maybe the switch is broken. Maybe a shipping strap had rubbed into it or something...


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I'd bet on the switch but you never know! Wow you are a sucker for FE's!

You can get a banjo bolt with a pressure switch in it so you can get the rear to operate the lights with the aftermarket rear set.




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