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Ride in 5th gear lol--thats what I have to do I cant use 6th gear until I get over 89 MPH--I've got 14 tooth ft & 39 tooth rear, or you can change the gearing, by gearing lower
 

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So as per post 1,297 I fitted a 1098/1198 oil cooler as had read here and elsewhere that it can reduce oil temp by 10 degrees. And with a high mileage motor that's a positive outcome. So y'day I tested it by giving it a high revving blast for 60 klms.
I was dismayed to see that it was at 140C. And y'day wasn't hot, mid-twenties celsius. That's about where it usually sits on a cooler day and on a hot day, mid-thirties, it nudges 150.
The oil cooler is from a low mileage bike and as new with no damaged fins. I took the s/steel mesh off it too.

Am I missing something here? I feel as if it was a waste of time and money.
grrss, that's disappointing and doesn't sound like something is right - bigger oil cooler with adequate air flow should equal lower temps. Is there adequate airflow? What governs the oil flow thru the cooler circuit - does full oil flow go thru the oil cooler? I know the old GSX Suzukis had to have the flow modified by a restrictor to get oil flow thru the cooler.
 

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'Work-from-home' this week really messed up my daily routine.
When I bought my bike, it came with a crankcase breather canister that had a broken tab. Lazy me put a filter right on the breather valve, which my old mechanic advised against. I should have bought one used for $20 or something, but flexibility of work-from-home did this to me.
(the inlet and outlet tubes are staggered inside, so liquid has to fill up more than 1/2 way up the canister before it'll be able to drip via the filter. I may have to move this 1/2" forward for the clearance. I think the drain bolt will just hit the fender if it ever bottoms out. Aye yay yay...)
982052

982053
 

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today i aligned the clip ons. i had to lower them to about a 25mm gap between upper triple and clip on tube to stop the switches hitting the fairing, which seemed low to me. anyway, done now.


982060


then i mounted my tank hold down. i cut the original round steel bosses off the frame to stop any cracking (before eric commented that early frames don't crack, wish i paid as much attention as he does) then welded a threaded boss to the back of the steering head that i was going to clean the weld up on before i had it painted then forgot and had it powder coated. made and painted a hook and put that on.

982061


then i started playing with a muffler for it. surprisingly the rh megacycle from minnie fitted quite well, which is bizarre for a monster muffler on an ss. but the entry pipe is pretty long and it sat a fair way back so i looked at the wacky muffler fitted to it when i bought and its entry pipe was also 50.4mm od. so i did a swaparoo and i'll get a pillion footrest replacement bracket water cut to mount it. i'm keen to run one of the megacycles so i can do a header comparison between the 400ss small diameter 2-1 and the monster 40mm 2-2 i had on this engine previously when it was in minnie. exact same muffler rules one variable out.

982062



thinking i'll get the muffler polished - it's just raw aluminium and hasn't had any cosmetic love since 2002 at least - and then maybe rub it with scotchbrite or even sandblast it on places. the place next door do "bespoke awards and trophies" - all sorts of interesting materials and finishes for inspiration - and so i tried polishing a section, then taping some off and bead blasting it. comparison of the brushed vs the polished and blasted. polish, then tape the ends around the rivet line and then blast the outer. not sure how many goes i'd get at changing my mind with that.

982063
 

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i also did a video about reassembling the fuel cap. was quite a debacle. now that it's all back together i'm pretty sure the spray can paint is going to fuck right off pronto the first time any fuel hits it, so i'll get a second go to lose some more bits.

 

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grrss, that's disappointing and doesn't sound like something is right - bigger oil cooler with adequate air flow should equal lower temps. ...
So a big ride (550 klm) on fast twisty roads y'day and temp. went to 145 C at the most. So it does seem to be running a few degrees Celsius lower...but the ambient air temp. is nowhere near the hot season temps. So will continue to monitor it.

Some say these air cooled engines are made to cope with high temps. however as mine has high klms and lives in a hot climate I reckon it would be good a move to have it run cooler.
 

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My SP became CR today. I'm not sure which one I prefer, honestly. One thing I know though, the maintenance will be hell of a lot quicker.
982159
 

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well maybe a tiny bit quicker lol--it takes all of 3 min to remove and install the side fairings
 

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I ran out of gas a few miles from home a couple of weeks ago. The gas light did not come on. So off with the idiot light panel. Notice the disconnected green wire. Yup..it’s for the low fuel light.
982161
25E33925-DB99-4477-A587-83BE534D412E.jpeg
 

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well maybe a tiny bit quicker lol--it takes all of 3 min to remove and install the side fairings
I know, but I found the side fairings really cumbersome to remove and put back on every time you wanna do some little thing, like check the plug or some such things.
Though I can't decide which way I like, my girlfriend voted for CR fairing. Since I spent a good few hours making a set of brackets for it, I'll keep it like this for a time being.
 

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Just finished changing the fork oil, and re-newing the front brake fluid. Re-adjusted the throttle cables for smooth operation, & restocked my small 7 gallon supply of non-ethanol fuel.

keep the faith, we will ride again........

Fred
 

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Well I didnt do it today or even yet, But on for next week is pull the forks clean & install Race Tech springs & refill & install, Then pull the alternator cover clean to re-seal, install my Nichols flywheel and check other items under the cover and replace anything that is questionable--Then change my rear sprocket from the 38 tooth to a 40 tooth, & then see how I like it. That should keep me busy for 6 hours or so
 
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