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I'm interested in adding an accessible fuel valve as above.
Appreciate recommendations and sources. There's probably
some very good , very bad, and gold plated inline valves out there.
I've found with my other scooters that if I reach down and shut off fuel
so it runs out of gas as I get home, they start up more readily the next ride.
Thanks,
Jim
979987
 

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That Pingel valve is the one I ordered last week for my bike, expensive-yes but probably the last one I'll ever have to purchase. The cheap one I purchased from Ebay started leaking after 2 months
 

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One of these is $2.00 in the Lawn and Garden section at Ebay. Very light, mine isn't strapped down. It just floats on the stiff, stock hose in about the same area rwantin mounted his.


I have a couple of these sitting on my bench at the shop, I did look at them and just could not come up with a way to mount them that made me happy--again I want it to look like it came on the bike -that Ducati thought it out and it looks like it belongs there from the factory, But then thats just the way I think. lol
 

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This is the first one I purchased that started leaking after 2 months--dont get this one lol--
979988
 

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My comment about fugly was about that nasty master cylinder that the picture was posted of, ---Now what are you referring to about MCC installed one like this???
 

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I use a cheap (10-20.00usd) 90 degree petcock and bracket it off the right front airbox mount. It is discreet enough you wont notice it yet you can easily access it . Yes they do fail after 5-10 years but after you have made the bracket it is a quick swap. Quality part? probably not but it does the job and with fuel we have I am not sure what is the lifespan of anything anymore, one plus to the pingle is they are probably rebuild able so you might want to buy a spare rebuild kit while they are still in business.
 

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My comment about fugly was about that nasty master cylinder that the picture was posted of, ---Now what are you referring to about MCC installed one like this???
My bad. 'twas talking about the fuel shutoff. dukerdr's suggestion is exactly what I used and with new hoses it's perfect.
 

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More like what didn't I do.

It took a couple of weeks to get all the parts I needed in one place, so I was finally able to do a bunch of work this weekend. It all started as the classic cascade effect of "might as well since I'm already in here". It started with an odd black mark rubbing off on the corner of all the drive chain links. That turned out to be the accordion boot behind the clutch slave having absorbed leaking fluid, distorted and rubbed against the chain. Time for a new boot and full clutch system rebuild. Might as well replace the clutch and throwout bearing while I'm at it, it's been making noise anyways.
I'm also due up for belts and a valve check, get those done too while I'm in there. A bunch of the wellnuts are worn out, replaced those while the fairings were off. Did some cleaning around the engine too.

Got all that done and I gotta say, this was my first desmo valve adjustment and on these old 2V motors, really not that hard. I'll take a dozen of these any day over a Kawasaki Concours 14. I had the formerly EMS shim kit and it was fantastic having any size shim I could possibly need on hand, plus the shim measuring tool.

Belts were simple enough, though my SS is a 1993 making it the early style cam gears with the flange on the outside. What a pain in the butt, but I eventually figured out how to do it relatively easily, now I know for next time.

The real fun began once I got everything except the fairings back together. Fired it up, ran fine for a few minutes, shut it down and put the tools away. Turn around to see a damp spot directly underneath the clutch slave. Great. Smell it and it's actually fuel. Trace it back to the right carb and it's either a sticky float or crud keeping the float valve from seating properly. I had a pair of carb rebuild kits on hand from when I bought the bike a couple of years back. Lift the airbox up enough to access the carbs. Pull the bowl out (easy since the last guy to work on the carbs swapped the factory phillips bolts out for allen's), pulled the float (which has a small amount of fuel in it so a new one is on the way), swap the float valve, clean the bowl, on goes the new gasket and bolt it all back up. Fire it up, runs fine, shut it down a put tools away. Turn around, got a damp spot in the SAME PLACE. This time, it's the left carb. At this point, I've mastered gaining access to the carbs. Rinse and repeat the same process and in record time.
Fire it up again and it lights off faster than it ever has. I've always had an issue with it needing what seems like longer than usual to crank, especially when it's cool, so I think I've always had a sticky float and just never noticed. Never left the pump running for very long without the engine running.

Aside from needing tires and an oil change in a couple of months, my SS is pretty well set for the next several years aside from routine motorcycle stuff like chain lubrication, oil changes, etc.
 

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Just looked, must have thrown my old one out; was from a 900 though (didn't realise they are different)
 

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i'm still trying to find a clutch hose. think my chances of finding an original rubber with olive green plated banjos are pretty small.
What about custom?
The green coating is likely a cad / zinc chromate so if you can get hold of "ordinary" steel fittings first, have them replated olive drab, then take along to a hydraulics specialist for custom hose build??
 

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OK for an update, This valve arrived from Pingel, It is probably the best fuel valve I have ever seen-However it is also pretty damn big, there was no way to mount this valve without it looking awkward, I tried a couple of different places and different angles --It just never looked like it belonged there--So tomorrow I ship it back to Pingel. The price was high but had it looked correct I would have been very happy. I purchased another valve from Aircraft Spruce-it mounts through a plate-the front side of the valve that contacts the inside of the plate is square so I machined a mount plate with an inside square recessed section to match the valve face which locks the valve in place so it cannot move. Now it's easy to reach with gloves on and so far so good
 

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I just ordered a valve from them also. Aircraft Spruce, not Pingle. My build stalled a little bit but I’m getting back on track.

Ordered some new parts as well as new to me parts. Found a more modern coffin style brake master off of a 2009 696 Monster on eBay. Same 16mm bore as my OEM too. @ $30 delivered, I couldn’t pass it up.

Also, the stainless steel Wez nuts I ordered for the exhaust finally showed up today. There are some repair parts for my OEM foot controls on the way as well.

Hope to have all of the parts ready to install next weekend and then get started on installing the electricals. I’ve secured the use of a spray booth so I gotta get busy on body work prep soon too.

Once I’m ready I’ll post a complete thread on this Resto-Mod build....sean
 

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I just ordered a valve from them also. Aircraft Spruce, not Pingle. My build stalled a little bit but I’m getting back on track.

Ordered some new parts as well as new to me parts. Found a more modern coffin style brake master off of a 2009 696 Monster on eBay. Same 16mm bore as my OEM too. @ $30 delivered, I couldn’t pass it up.

Also, the stainless steel Wez nuts I ordered for the exhaust finally showed up today. There are some repair parts for my OEM foot controls on the way as well.

Hope to have all of the parts ready to install next weekend and then get started on installing the electricals. I’ve secured the use of a spray booth so I gotta get busy on body work prep soon too.

Once I’m ready I’ll post a complete thread on this Resto-Mod build....sean
Where are you thinking of mounting the fuel tap?
 
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