Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1221 - 1240 of 1357 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Didn't get much done for the last couple of weeks. Last work I got done was the front wheel conversion. I had a spacer machined to fit the bearings and internal spacer to sleeve it all down to fit the 20mm axle. That worked like a champ.

I also got a 20mm axle speedo drive to replace the OEM 17mm. Now I find out that it is 5mm wider than the OEM drive for the SSie the wheel came from. That will have to come back off to get machined down to fit.

Today I managed to get out to the garage for short while and put my new digital torque wrench to good use. Torqued a few fasteners down but gotta remove the chain again to reach the left side swing arm pinch bolt.

A number of things that I ordered arrived over the holidays. I got a new to me MOSFET regulator/rectifier and the associated connectors to wire it in. I don't know if the OEM was still any good....the wires from the stator are completely roached. I just touched one and all the insulation crumbled at my finger tips. The exposed wire was green for the entire length that was exposed.

I previously ordered some Ti rotor bolts for my rear rotor but those have a shoulder that doesn't fit. So, I ordered new ones from RSR Moto along with a set of carbon dash surrounds. I also got a new film for the idiot lights so I am pondering how to go about doing that little job. I think either I'm going to cut some plastic to glue down and stick the new film to that, or I'm going to use plexi. Not sure which yet.

I set the gauge cluster in place also, just so I could visualize where I'd like to mount the voltmeter I got for the MOSFET conversion. Pondering whether to fab the bracket for it from aluminum or stainless steel. I have both. Either would look pretty sweet. All for now really....I'll post more later on once I actually make a little more progress......sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,226 Posts
i'm getting closer with the 400, but it's a real step forward, back and sideways every time i touch it. i pulled it apart so long ago that parts for it are in a few places and i keep losing bits, find replacements then re-find the originals. put the airbox on forgetting to put the fuel lines on, airbox off again. heaps of shit like that. exhaust was a pita to fit, had a guy blast it and then paint it with some vht that's meant to cure when it gets hot. but it's all chipping when i put it on, and with the 400's 2-1 set up the slip joints are scraping it off too. somewhat over this bike.
978499
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
909 Posts
Your not looking for the parts in the correct place --when I am at home and cant find something my wife always says ---It's behind the milk---Now I look there and never find what I a looking for but it may work for you lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
exhaust was a pita to fit, had a guy blast it and then paint it with some vht that's meant to cure when it gets hot. but it's all chipping when i put it on, and with the 400's 2-1 set up the slip joints are scraping it off too.
I hear ya on the exhaust. I started cleaning mine up and getting it test fit....found I needed a pipe expander to get the mid pipes to fit the stock header. Also, sanded off a good bit of carbon build up from the header so the pipes could slide on easily.

Now I'm having to do the same for the end of the mid pipe where it goes into the exhaust can. Obviously, not all aftermarket exhaust cans are created equally and the ones I got are no exception. Still, it's a PITA to get it all fit correctly and look period correct too....I mean, if that's your thing too.

I'm also in the same boat as far parts. I took mine apart over a year ago. I don't remember where everything is. Not the old stuff that I have no plans to reuse, nor the new stuff I bought to replace it. Save for the pile of new parts accumulating on my dinner table.....sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
330 Posts
Made a new underseat tray as the other one had a crack where the bolts fasten to it. Once wrapped in c/f look vinyl it will look a lot better.
Tomorrow will get my parts back from the painter, will post a pic or two when they are fitted.
And I have done a mod that is very cool; wait and see;)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
Made a new underseat tray as the other one had a crack where the bolts fasten to it.
That looks great. But... you should drill and de-burr holes at the end of the cut where you made the bend in the metal to relieve the stress risers there and prevent a future crack.
979829
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
765 Posts
Yes. I built (and flew!) an Experimental Amateur Built aircraft and something I learned was that good metalworking practice (especially in the hardened aluminum sheets used for aircraft) dictates eliminating stress risers caused in corners when you bend the metal to avoid cracks when the part is used in an environment subject to high vibration. That's a large radius shallow angle bend so it probably won't crack since the metal wasn't "bunched up" in the inside corner as much as it would be in a 90 degree bend and it certainly wouldn't be life threatening if it did crack like it might in an aircraft... but a couple of holes might save you having to make a second part down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
909 Posts
Well what did I do today to my SS, Discovered the in-line fuel tap I had installed is leaking when turned on & the fuel pump running, I must admit it was a cheap one I found on Fleabay and didnt really expect much, But I wanted a fuel valve that had a mounting point on it ( I have it bolted to the starboard side rear airbox mount bolt) perfect place easy to get to & looks like it belongs there. But I needed to find a new one and decided to get a high quality one since I now know this will work perfectly--I want this primarily because with the solo tail section it is not as quick & easy to get to the factory petcock ( 4 bolts must be removed). So I found one from Pingel--yes it is expensive $159.00 but I'll probably never need another & this Pingel valve also has the mounting tab
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
Well what did I do today to my SS, Discovered the in-line fuel tap I had installed is leaking when turned on & the fuel pump running, I must admit it was a cheap one I found on Fleabay and didnt really expect much, But I wanted a fuel valve that had a mounting point on it ( I have it bolted to the starboard side rear airbox mount bolt) perfect place easy to get to & looks like it belongs there. But I needed to find a new one and decided to get a high quality one since I now know this will work perfectly--I want this primarily because with the solo tail section it is not as quick & easy to get to the factory petcock ( 4 bolts must be removed). So I found one from Pingel--yes it is expensive $159.00 but I'll probably never need another & this Pingel valve also has the mounting tab
I did the same thing, peace of mind with FCRs and dont have to mess with pulling the seat every time

979895
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
471 Posts
I went the 12 volt solenoid route. Valve opens when you turn the key on and closes when it is off - also has a manual bypass, just in case the coil fails. All good insurance. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
909 Posts
i'm old and go the old school route lol
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
272 Posts
i'm old and go the old school route lol
Old school here as well. :) I found this and seemed to be of very good quality. I did this not only out of concern with the FCR's but also my key - unlocking the damn seat with the grab handle right there stresses the original key quite a bit. This is, of course, so much easier. Incidentally, I installed a Pingel on my Bonneville and they are the bomb. Should this valve fail prematurely for some reason, I'll go that route.

979973
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
909 Posts
i'm old and go the old school route lol
the Pingel I purchased has a mounting tab on it so I dont use the wire ties, I like that because when mounted it looks like it belongs there not wire tied on which to me looks like an after thought, but thats just me lol both will work just fine
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I'm interested in adding an accessible fuel valve as above.
Appreciate recommendations and sources. There's probably
some very good , very bad, and gold plated inline valves out there.
I've found with my other scooters that if I reach down and shut off fuel
so it runs out of gas as I get home, they start up more readily the next ride.
Thanks,
Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,816 Posts
One of these is $2.00 in the Lawn and Garden section at Ebay. Very light, mine isn't strapped down. It just floats on the stiff, stock hose in about the same area rwantin mounted his.


 
1221 - 1240 of 1357 Posts
Top