Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First off ill say Merry Christmas in advance ladies and gents, have a safe holiday.

Now for the Q, ok so I am planning on changing out the chain and sprockets because the originals are at 11k and look not so well. I have been doing a lot of reading and have many options but would like to add a little bit off color back there. Now I havent been able to find many people who sell the quick change sprockets in gold so Driven is about my only choice, plus Im pretty sure they will be readily available in the future which is a concern. I was gonna use a DID VX2 chain in black. Option 2 would be to go the cheaper route and use a JT carrier and be able to fit black JT, Renthal and AFAM(with some forcing iv heard) sprockets to that but with a gold DID chain. So which sounds better, Gold Driven sprocket with black chain or Black JT/Renthal sprocket with gold chain.

BTW the bike is a yellow 748
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was thinking of that also, how is the quality of the JT/Renthal quick change setup? I found one post about a broken tooth on a JT sprocket but other than that they seem to be decent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
924 Posts
Personally it is something I've never worried about. A chains mechanical properties are far more important than it's colour if you mean to ride it like it's meant to be. Probably means a DID chain which fortunately tend to be gold.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
396 Posts
"I'd go for a gold chain sense I haven't seen a yellow one"
Yellow ones are out there as well as many other colors:
MFG Supply Yellow

Red from MotoWheels

Many Colors from BellissiMoto

As for the topic, of course you want a high quality chain/sprocket setup first.
With that said, you can still "play" a little with the cosmetics in that high quality range.

For me, the colors really depend on what you are doing overall theme-wise.
I have a 1997 yellow 748/853 but it's highly modified.
It has a pearl yellow paint job, Ohlins parts, and gold OZ wheels so I went with a gold DID chain that fit the theme.

I'm sure if I did another yellow or a red bike I would go in a completely different direction.

So pick a high quality setup that looks good for your bike and what you are doing.
Here's my DID/SuperSprox setup:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
924 Posts
Very pretty but how much lighter than standard is it? If it isn't lighter then it doesn't go on my bike. Ducatis are for performance, Hardley Ableson are for tarting up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
396 Posts
"Very pretty but how much lighter than standard is it? If it isn't lighter then it doesn't go on my bike."
I would argue that weight is not the sole criteria. Strength, increased performance, etc should be a factor as well.

That said, it's a DID 520 chain. I didn't weigh it but I have the original in my basement and am pretty sure it weighs more.

I didn't weigh the SuperSprox but it's much lighter than the OEM. It also has 40 teeth (OEM has 38) and that's the reason I changed it out.

In addition, that SSR sprocket hub cover is billet and also weighs less than the stock piece.

The OZ Piega rear wheel is about 4-pounds (1.8KG) less than the OEM and is forged so it's stronger too.

All the nuts there are titanium and much lighter than the OEM.

The BrakeTech rear rotor is not only a full floating system but weighs 10-OZ (.28KG) less than the OEM rotor.
 

·
Bon Vivant
Joined
·
11,719 Posts
If you ride this bike on the street I would stay away from an aluminum sprocket.
My last Driven sprocket managed about 2800 miles... :eek:

The supersprox with a steel outer ring will last about 10,000.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
924 Posts

I would argue that weight is not the sole criteria. Strength, increased performance, etc should be a factor as well.

That said, it's a DID 520 chain. I didn't weigh it but I have the original in my basement and am pretty sure it weighs more.

I didn't weigh the SuperSprox but it's much lighter than the OEM. It also has 40 teeth (OEM has 38) and that's the reason I changed it out.

In addition, that SSR sprocket hub cover is billet and also weighs less than the stock piece.

The OZ Piega rear wheel is about 4-pounds (1.8KG) less than the OEM and is forged so it's stronger too.

All the nuts there are titanium and much lighter than the OEM.

The BrakeTech rear rotor is not only a full floating system but weighs 10-OZ (.28KG) less than the OEM rotor.
Sounds like you are going in the right direction then :) All you need to do now is wirelock two nuts together then three to save a bit of wire........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ceij, thats a pretty nice setup uou have there, I like the wheels a lot. I was really considering the supersprox stealth myself but then someone was like well if your gonna change all that get a quick change set up so you at least only have to do it once. Would I be correct in saying I will need a tool for riveting the DID chain? I was also gonna go to a 40T, I think the gold DID would look good with the silver or black sprocket ill prob go with that. 2800 miles sweet jesus that almost completely eliminates aluminum lol.

BTW Ceij, the carbon tail we spoke of bf was a gift for today and I attempted to put it on but obviously the hardware stores are closed and I couldnt get spacers but from the looks of it I will be able to use my bip bent W bracket. I was able to twist off the welded nuts believe it or not and the little arrow shaped rods that slide through the brake light housing threads right into the new fairing. ill post a pic here soon probably, in a new thread though.

thanks again gents
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
396 Posts
"If you ride this bike on the street I would stay away from an aluminum sprocket.
My last Driven sprocket managed about 2800 miles...
The supersprox with a steel outer ring will last about 10,000."
Excellent point. While the all-aluminum sprocket is lighter there is a trade-off.
This is also the reason I didn't machine down my flywheel or opt for an aluminum one (great for the track but I'd be stalling the bike all over the place here on New England hills).

"All you need to do now is wirelock two nuts together then three to save a bit of wire........ "
Haha, I didn't think of weighing my safety wire and to be honest I have been putting it all over... Hm, I could drop a few grams by getting rid of my oil filter clamp and its safety wire.... Of course, I could make up for it by losing a pound or two by eating less cookies after the holidays :p

"I was really considering the supersprox stealth myself but then someone was like well if your gonna change all that get a quick change set up so you at least only have to do it once."
Yes, Steve at ECS asked me what I wanted when we did the swap and I didn't go for the quick change because Anatra is strictly a street bike (I'm looking at another Duc for the track and another reason why I could lose the safety wire LOL). That said I always heard that you should change both sprockets and chain together... Maybe some other members can chime in on how it works with a quick change rear...

"BTW Ceij, the carbon tail we spoke of bf was a gift for today and I attempted to put it on but obviously the hardware stores are closed and I couldnt get spacers but from the looks of it I will be able to use my bip bent W bracket. I was able to twist off the welded nuts believe it or not and the little arrow shaped rods that slide through the brake light housing threads right into the new fairing. ill post a pic here soon probably, in a new thread though."
Yep, I don't know if I told you but my mono tail doesn't use the spacers... it sits way too high with them... Maybe there are differences in the heights of the mono subframes in addition to the different ECUs over the years... In any case, if your biposto subframe works without the spacers then cool!
Without the spacers you may need to flatten that "W" bracket and drill new holes - you'll see.
Indeed the arrow shaped rods are the same on the BIP and mono. They screw into the bracket on the BIP and into the tail plastic on the mono. I'll be looking for your post and let me know if you need any help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the offer Ceij its definitely appreciated. I looks like all ill need are new bolts for the more narrow side of the W bracket bc the stock ones are two small for the new fairings holes. I mounted the fairing with the W bracket but without the latch part or lights and it looked like it was only about an inch away and that latch is about an inch long so it looks like the bent bracket will be perfect without the one inch spacers. We will see tomorrow after the hardware stores open, if I dont need the bracket ill probably post it for like 30 or 35 shipped in the forums bc I paid 40 without shipping. Think I may use the money from last semesters text books and the bracket to fund the new chain and sprockets lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
one more thing, is it a pain to chain the sprockets and chain? can I get by with a 30 dollar riveter from fleabay?

I have been hearing good things about these stealth sprockets so when the 40T gold or black come back in stock I will prob get one, changing the chain and sprocket on a non track bike every 10k miles doesnt seem to bad without quick change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
924 Posts

Haha, I didn't think of weighing my safety wire and to be honest I have been putting it all over... Hm, I could drop a few grams by getting rid of my oil filter clamp and its safety wire.... Of course, I could make up for it by losing a pound or two by eating less cookies after the holidays :p

I wouldn't laugh, when I got my 900SS I lost 3kg in as many weeks! The effect hasn't been so strong with the 748 - 1 1/2 so far....



Yep, I don't know if I told you but my mono tail doesn't use the spacers... it sits way too high with them... Maybe there are differences in the heights of the mono subframes in addition to the different ECUs over the years... In any case, if your biposto subframe works without the spacers then cool!
Without the spacers you may need to flatten that "W" bracket and drill new holes - you'll see.
Indeed the arrow shaped rods are the same on the BIP and mono. They screw into the bracket on the BIP and into the tail plastic on the mono. I'll be looking for your post and let me know if you need any help![/QUOTE]

Thanks for this info. My 748 came with a monoposto tail badly fitted and a spare biposto tail. i got a monoposto tail with my chinese plastics but it has no threaded holes for bolting the lock and light brackets too. This means I have some puzzling to do as the parts catalogue drawings aren't really clear. Any pics you've got would be REALLY apreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I know Ceij has some pics and good info on the bip to mono switch imsure he can help, Ill post some pics of mine here soon, prob tomorrow night hopefully.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
396 Posts
Thanks for this info. My 748 came with a monoposto tail badly fitted and a spare biposto tail. i got a monoposto tail with my chinese plastics but it has no threaded holes for bolting the lock and light brackets too. This means I have some puzzling to do as the parts catalogue drawings aren't really clear. Any pics you've got would be REALLY apreciated.
I will get you pictures etc later today (I'm at work right now). I have the pages from the parts catalog and pictures I took of my conversion (both BIP subframe and mono subframe).
Until then Gotham Cycles has many pictures from that catalog on their site such as this one:

BTW, Michael (Gotham Cycles) is a great resource and has even more parts than he shows on his site (email him).

As for the threads, others have encountered this with aftermarket tails. Here's a recent thread about it:
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/148425-aftermarket-mono-tail-916-748-996-how-replicate-threaded-inserts.html
I've also seen people drill through the tail but this would show the screws unless you're doing body-work (fill) and repainting/painting the tail.
Anyway, stay tuned and I'll try to round-up all my pictures and descriptions later...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
924 Posts
Thanks, that's along the lines I was thinking. I bought a job lot of bits for my 900SS a while back and it had some 916 bits in it. Lo and behold there is a titanium seat bracket!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top