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I’ve got a Shorai SHORAI LFX18A1-BS12 and it never ever starts without issue. I went to America for 2 weeks and it won’t start at all now and I’m just tired of dealing with it. I couldn’t trickle charge because my house is being rewired.

Can I modify my case to shove a 400cca+ battery in there and work this bitch over?

Osaka isn’t that cold, it shouldn’t be this much trouble to start.

Ive done the regulator relocation with a new Ducati regulator and will switch to the Yamaha mosfet when I have enough time and money. I may do the copper-cable swap too and then if that doesn’t work just take it to the dealer and ask them to do whatever it takes because I’m tired of this. This bike is my only transportation unfortunately...

Thinking maybe something like this:



Or



 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, my Shorai is never ever close to 14v before starting. It’s only 14v when I’m actually driving around. After a few cranks and waits I can usually get it from 12 to 12.9v before it finally starts.
 

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Is the battery the problem? My Shorai works fine even after extended sit times. Cables and connections could be the culprit, or a current draw when off. Me and lectricity never did get along... good luck.
 

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400cca is a really dirty band aid for a problem in the starting system. change ALL the starter leads.change the starter solanoid. power up the starter motor on the bike to see if its not failing. and dont overlook the starter clutch, a fucked sprag can give the symptoms of failing battery. there real isnt that much to a bikes starting system that would make it hard to start. this is assuming the bike is in good tune.
 

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it never ever starts without issue. I went to America for 2 weeks and it won’t start at all now and I’m just tired of dealing with it. I couldn’t trickle charge because my house is being rewired.
Something must have happened during these two weeks.
Did you test/analyse the battery afterwards?
 

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Something must have happened during these two weeks.
Did you test/analyse the battery afterwards?
no I didn’t, but it did the same thing it always does. Starts with showing a really low voltage and then every time I start it and wait a few minutes the voltage goes up until finally getting to about 12.9 after about 5 rounds of this.

I left it on trickle charge today.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
400cca is a really dirty band aid for a problem in the starting system. change ALL the starter leads.change the starter solanoid. power up the starter motor on the bike to see if its not failing. and dont overlook the starter clutch, a fucked sprag can give the symptoms of failing battery. there real isnt that much to a bikes starting system that would make it hard to start. this is assuming the bike is in good tune.
How much to change all of this? I know the sprag is fairly expensive. If it’ll start like a Japanese bike I’ll probably just swap it all.
 

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That’s the $700 question Isaac. A GOOD Ducati tech should be able to tell you the sprag is bad. As much as we would love to be able to give you an answer we aren’t there with the bike and diagnoses over the net can only give you a guide. I know there are people who say that if you want a daily rider then get a Jap bike but I don’t agree. Looked after there’s no reason to think otherwise.
 

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That’s the $700 question Isaac. A GOOD Ducati tech should be able to tell you the sprag is bad. As much as we would love to be able to give you an answer we aren’t there with the bike and diagnoses over the net can only give you a guide. I know there are people who say that if you want a daily rider then get a Jap bike but I don’t agree. Looked after there’s no reason to think otherwise.
I hope you’re right. It hasn’t been great so far. It’s got 40,000km on it. If I get this work done do you think it could ever be reliable with mileage like this?
 

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Easily! there is no reason that bike can't be reliable, i have a friend with a Diavel that has 130,000kms on it, never had more than service and a fuel pump.
What you have is a Li ion battery, they behave different to a lead acid battery, for want of a better explanation they need to be "woken up" especially when it's cold, turn the ignition on to prime the pump, hit the starter for a couple of seconds then stop, leave the ignition on, wait 30 seconds and do it again, that sequence should (if the system is not faulty) start the bike with no issues.

You should obviously check for poor connections, corrosion etc. and if you have a meter you can do a load test to see what the voltage on the battery drops to as you start it.
Static voltage should read 13.2v not 12.6v like a lead acid battery, and that extra oomph will cause issues if your starter sprag is failing, i've fallen victim to it, thinking my battery was shot i put a new Li ion in it and that was the straw that broke the camels back and it failed completely....

A Li Ion is a good option for a 1098 because a std lead acid battery is heavy and Ducati replaced the YT14B-BS with a 12 because the big one was causing splits in the top left of the radiator, keeping weight down is therefore a good idea.
 

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I hope you’re right. It hasn’t been great so far. It’s got 40,000km on it. If I get this work done do you think it could ever be reliable with mileage like this?
Not thrashed to much and serviced PROPERLY I can’t see why you couldn’t double that figure. You WILL get the odd gremlin or three but that’s the same with any bike. Forums are littered with “my bike won’t.......” but that’s because there’s no reason for the 95% of problem(s) free bikers to get on and say “hey look. I’ve done blaablaablaa kms and bike runs perfectly”
Caveat. A doctor can’t say how long you will live for if he looks at you at 40. So don’t blame me if the big end goes after 50k. 😃
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Easily! there is no reason that bike can't be reliable, i have a friend with a Diavel that has 130,000kms on it, never had more than service and a fuel pump.
What you have is a Li ion battery, they behave different to a lead acid battery, for want of a better explanation they need to be "woken up" especially when it's cold, turn the ignition on to prime the pump, hit the starter for a couple of seconds then stop, leave the ignition on, wait 30 seconds and do it again, that sequence should (if the system is not faulty) start the bike with no issues.

You should obviously check for poor connections, corrosion etc. and if you have a meter you can do a load test to see what the voltage on the battery drops to as you start it.
Static voltage should read 13.2v not 12.6v like a lead acid battery, and that extra oomph will cause issues if your starter sprag is failing, i've fallen victim to it, thinking my battery was shot i put a new Li ion in it and that was the straw that broke the camels back and it failed completely....

A Li Ion is a good option for a 1098 because a std lead acid battery is heavy and Ducati replaced the YT14B-BS with a 12 because the big one was causing splits in the top left of the radiator, keeping weight down is therefore a good idea.
Mine only reads that high while moving. 12.9 is the highest I can get it before starting the bike. I’m thinking I need to change the leads to copper.

Is the starter sprag/clutch the same thing? If they’re not should I swap both out?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hope you’re rj
Not thrashed to much and serviced PROPERLY I can’t see why you couldn’t double that figure. You WILL get the odd gremlin or three but that’s the same with any bike. Forums are littered with “my bike won’t.......” but that’s because there’s no reason for the 95% of problem(s) free bikers to get on and say “hey look. I’ve done blaablaablaa kms and bike runs perfectly”
Caveat. A doctor can’t say how long you will live for if he looks at you at 40. So don’t blame me if the big end goes after 50k. 😃
I hope you’re right. My R1 was bulletproof and I got used to that. I hope this bike lasts as long.
 

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Mine only reads that high while moving. 12.9 is the highest I can get it before starting the bike. I’m thinking I need to change the leads to copper.

Is the starter sprag/clutch the same thing? If they’re not should I swap both out?
i don't think i've ever seen a 12v battery give more than 12.9v just sitting there. i'd call that pretty impressive. if you're reading it from the dash that can be wrong too - i see them both high and low.

replacing the starter leads is a great idea.

starter sprag is the same thing as the starter clutch. it is a one way freewheel device that allows the constant mesh starter drive to overrun when the engine is running.
 

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It's always wise to check wether you have a current leak yes or no, just to rule that out.
Changing the starter leads is indeed a good thing; you also might want to dismantle the starter itself,
have a nice internal cleanup and renew the brushes and bearings; the difference can be huge...!
Some 12 years ago i replaced my Yuasa by a Odyssey PC680 on my 996SPS; a had to adapt the batterytray
a little to make things fit, but the result was fantastic. Yes, this battery has indeed extra weight, but i lost some
pounds myself, so that took care of weightdifference......:giggle:. And it lasts and lasts and lasts........; never needs
any recharging, even after the winterstop of some 4 months the bike fires right up.
And if i have to replace it eventually, it will be the same Odyssey again!
Good luck.
Peter
 

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Isaac, I run a Shorai myself, and even is the chilly Alps, no issues. I do tune my bikes every year, and that helps too.
A visit to your local CAINZ, Valour, or Kama(or whatever you have in Osaka) will have all of the materials you need to upgrade your cables. There is usually heavy gauge welding cable and suitable connectors in the electrical section.
 

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Just option if you are looking at a different battery. A few of my friends have this and really like it. I also just placed an order for some nice cables from Exact starter cables that are supposed to really improve things as well. They are getting great reviews over at the ducatiforum.co.uk site.

WPS Lithium battery
 
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You can certainly get a little more battery in the same physical size as well. Based on the weight I would figure that's a 12-cell and you could bump it up to a 16 cell in the same size housing like an Antigravity AT12BS-HD-RS but definitely look into the other aspects as previously mentioned in the thread and explore some other possibilities as it sounds like there could be some other issues going on.. Just to clarify as well, 13.2v is resting voltage for lithium so that's generally what you'll see if the bikes been sitting. When it's running you should see it higher, if you're in the mid-12's-13 that seems like that might be actually be a little low as well.
-Chad
[email protected]
 
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