[Skidfin]

Questions for you guys that are wiser with electrical systems than me. I'm buying heated gloves and jacket with dual controler ( powerlet or firstgear ).....with the MTS 1200should I hook up a power plug straight to the battery terminals ( as I did with my ST2 ), or use the plugs on the bike already, and can the bikes plugs handle the draw of jacket & gloves together on the canbus system? I guess I was a little disapointed to find out the MTS only has a 500watt alternator, I thought a touring bike should have more. But I did find the info that it is a light weight "high frequency" alternator that charges better at idle to low rpm's, and tapers off at higher rpm's. I'm guessing it can handle my gear, but what about adding heated gear for the wife? Or is she left out in the cold so to speak?
-Jeff

 

[Earthshake]

Watts = Amps x Voltage. I think the accessory ports are on a 10A circuit. Assuming the bike is producing a regulated 14V while underway, that would indicate you could pull 140 watts through the accessory port.

 

[Mr Sunshine]

Watts = Amps x Voltage. I think the accessory ports are on a 10A circuit. Assuming the bike is producing a regulated 14V while underway, that would indicate you could pull 140 watts through the accessory port.

On a motorcycle I use 13v in my equations. This helps insure that I have some overhead.

 

[Shazaam]

Here's how the alternator power output is intended to be used: low beam (55W)
high beam (55W)
sidelight (5W)
tail lights plus brake lights (21W)
turn signal lights (10W)
number plate light (5W)
instrument cluster bulb (2W)
warning light bulb (1.2W)
fuel pump (clean filter) (60W)
horn (60W)
cooling fan (60W)
electronic ignition (48W)
computer (24W)

If only the high beam or the low beam headlight is on at one time, the total of the above loads is 350W. This is called the system design basis used to size the alternator. However, this is different from the normal operating conditions.

For example, a common operating condition for your model would be:
low beam on (55W)
high beam off (0W)
sidelight off (0W)
tail lights plus brake lights on (21W)
turn signal lights off (0W)
number plate light on (5W)
instrument cluster bulb on (2W)
warning light bulb off (0W)
fuel pump on (60W)
horn off (0W)
cooling fan on (60W)
electronic ignition on (48W)
computer on (24W)

The total of the above loads for this operating condition is 275W (although Stick has posted that he measured the power draw during the normal running condition at about 200W.)

This leaves 225W (500-275) available to run auxiliary equipment and to charge the battery.

 

[Skidfin]

Thanks guys, looks like I will be fine, I'll just use one port for me and one port for her( though she doesn't ride with me too much, almost never when cold ).
Shazaam, thanks, thats a great breakdown of the systems draw, you da man!
So, I'm asuming some HID main beams will give even a little more room for accessory draws too? The only other accessory now is my Garmin 550 ( hooked to the dedicated line Ducati installed on the bike )
-Jeff

 

[guitarian]

Those numbers are not encouraging.
I just figured my total "worst case" load at 461 watts including my extras:
Garmin Zumo- 15 Watts
Sargent Heated seat- 24 Watts
Gerbing Gloves- 27 Watts
Gerbing Liner- 77 Watts
Escort Redline- 8 Watts
Heated grips- 36 Watts (I don't know what the Ducati Grips draw but I'm basing this number on the Aerostich Hot Grips on high)

I suppose I will use the heat sparingly.

 

[DuckMan]

Those numbers are not encouraging.
I just figured my total "worst case" load at 461 watts including my extras:
Garmin Zumo- 15 Watts
Sargent Heated seat- 24 Watts
Gerbing Gloves- 27 Watts
Gerbing Liner- 77 Watts
Escort Redline- 8 Watts
Heated grips- 36 Watts (I don't know what the Ducati Grips draw but I'm basing this number on the Aerostich Hot Grips on high)

I suppose I will use the heat sparingly.

Does the Garmin really pull 15 watts? That sounds like a lot. I have mine and my Escort Redline on a single 10 amp circuit and I've never popped the fuse.

Edit: nevermind, I just realized what I said.

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[3B43]

I guess running a jacket liner, which pulls 7, and the grips on 'medium', I've got nothing to worry about.

 

[Mr Sunshine]

Here's how the alternator power output is intended to be used: low beam (55W)
high beam (55W)
sidelight (5W)
tail lights plus brake lights (21W)
turn signal lights (10W)
number plate light (5W)
instrument cluster bulb (2W)
warning light bulb (1.2W)
fuel pump (clean filter) (60W)
horn (60W)
cooling fan (60W)
electronic ignition (48W)
computer (24W)

If only the high beam or the low beam headlight is on at one time, the total of the above loads is 350W. This is called the system design basis used to size the alternator. However, this is different from the normal operating conditions.

For example, a common operating condition for your model would be:
low beam on (55W)
high beam off (0W)
sidelight off (0W)
tail lights plus brake lights on (21W)
turn signal lights off (0W)
number plate light on (5W)
instrument cluster bulb on (2W)
warning light bulb off (0W)
fuel pump on (60W)
horn off (0W)
cooling fan on (60W)
electronic ignition on (48W)
computer on (24W)

The total of the above loads for this operating condition is 275W (although Stick has posted that he measured the power draw during the normal running condition at about 200W.)

This leaves 225W (500-275) available to run auxiliary equipment and to charge the battery.

You are missing that there are two headlights on this bike. So its not 55watts with the low beam on it is 110watts. So you need to remove another 110watts from your remaining number.

 

[mollycbr123]

You are missing that there are two headlights on this bike. So its not 55watts with the low beam on it is 110watts. So you need to remove another 110watts from your remaining number.

you mean another 55w, no?

 

[Mr Sunshine]

Err. Yeah.


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[guitarian]

Doing an HID conversion is starting to look like a really good idea.

 

[Mr Sunshine]

Doing an HID conversion is starting to look like a really good idea.

LED save more.

 

[ducatidyer]

Heated gear power usage

Note: Most direct drive alternators as on the Multistrada have a rated maximum output at ~6,000 rpm. Gerbings and I would believe most other heated gear makers warn about using the gear at low engine speeds or idle rpm's. If in doubt just start the bike and let idle until warm, gives the battery a chance to recover from the start. Turn your gear on to a normal setting for riding and set the dash to the volt reading and watch it drop as you sit there. I have done this. Now double this draw when riding two up and imagine the power drain. I also wish that the Multistrada 1200 had a higher output alternator. Of note I have read that the new Diavel "touring" has a higher output alternator. If true might be something for the heavily accessorized bikes.

Cheers

 

[t-bills]

I ran a dongle off of the battery, but i have a full suit (gloves, jacket liner, pants liner, and insoles). Look at the amperage that you are needing for your jacket and gloves. The ports are 10 amps. I can run all of my gear on my Multi with no problem. It is rare that I have all of the suit at full power. With that said, you and your wife should be fine running jackets and gloves.

The usage breakdown is nice, but I would be much more inclined to go with the measured value. The breakdown uses maximum values. It also includes the radiator fan... which mine never comes on when I need heated gear.

Best of luck with your setup.

 

[aschemkes]

LED save more.

LEDs are not yet sufficient enough. I tried them, see http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showpost.php?p=1488126


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[moto]

I've been usig the Powerlet jacket and glove liners on my 1098 with no problems for the last 2 months.

-M

 

[Pampero]

Five hundred watts may not be the beefiest alternator in the world, but it is adequate for most real world needs. It is competitive in it's class, with many pure touring bikes having little more by way of capacity. Peak draw is good to know but has little to do with real world demands as long as you are not popping fuses. Once everything is warm, average draw will be less than maximum draw.

As t-bills said, your equipment is not going to be drawing current all the time, just as your grips won't be. It's your average draw that is the key to maintaining a topped up battery on a long ride.

 

[oleary]

current draw

I can run: Garmin GPS, Gerbings full jacket, pants and insoles - all on high, plus grips on high (if you wanna fry eggs) and have had no problems.

I used the switched power (lower left) for the GPS and for the rest of the kit I ran a dongle direct from the battery so that it just peeks out the front of the seat.

 

[amullo]

Here is an idea.. If you put in a cut out switch for the lowbeams, you have an additional 110w availble. If you want some form of DRL`s, but you can get some really good DRL LEDs that draw less then 10w, leaving a whooping 100w extra. That way you dont need to do a costly xenon replacement but still have the lowbeams at full power when you need them. The drawback would be less power availble for nightriding..