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Discussion Starter #1
Been like this since I got it used with only 1500 miles on it. It's very slight, you really only feel it when coming to a stop, light brake application at very low speeds. Feels fine everywhere else.

I thought that maybe there was a tiny bit of oil or polish on the rotors, it wasn't shaking, at really low speeds it felt more like "slip, grab, slip, grab, etc..."

I got some scotch bright abrasive pads and scuffed the insides and outsides of the rotors really well, cleaned them off with brake cleaner and it was still there.

So I put the bike up on a stand and spun the front wheel, and the front right rotor has the tiniest bit of warp to it... Very slight.

I feel like these rotors are really thin compared to most I have had over the years, perhaps to keep the weight down and reduce gyroscopic effect?

So the question is, should I just live with it, or should I replace them? if replace, I am sure that the stock rotors are stupid expensive. Are there a good set of rotors that work well with this bike, that don't require me to sell at least 1 of my kidneys?

Or should I find the warp and just smack it with a rubber mallet and see if I can straighten it? Will the warp get worse over time if I just leave it?

I am doing a track day at Road Atlanta in a few weeks and just want to make sure things are good to go. The bike has basically no rear brakes currently. Bleeding them works for a couple weeks and then it's back to barely holding the bike in place on a slight hill....
 

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I think give yourself a good whack in the head with the rubber mallet, nothing else will matter. At least for a while. Don't do it! :laugh:

It's very slight, you really only feel it when coming to a stop,
Imho, live with it for a while. How many kidneys do you have to trade anyway? I mean, if it's not causing any actual problems braking or handling. 0:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I am tempted to just try and ignore it but my OCD will probably drive me crazy... haha
 

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There is a chance it could be bent, not warped, from contact with something. Not that it matters. Do you have the means/skill set to measure the amount of runout ?
 

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My experience with this exact problem on my 01 M900S is that the rotor buttons are frozen and need to be cleaned, lubricated, and allowed to move more freely. There is a youtube video somewhere that details the process.
 

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Good thought, that may help a little even if the rotor isn’t straight. If it is straight, it should cure the issue. It can’t hurt, at least as long as you clean off the lube so it doesn’t get on the brake surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They all seem to be moving pretty freely... I will play with it some more, try turning off the ABS and see if perhaps it is related to that... If not, if it is in fact the rotors then I will just pick up a set of EBC Pro-Light XC Contour style and install those and call it a day. Will let you know the outcome for sure though.
 

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Do a search in youtube for rotor buttons, freeing up buttons came up second for me, there's also one on installing full floating buttons.

Good luck with it. Otherwise it's a good excuse for some full floating brembos, $585 from motowheels. I was just about to buy some for my ape but they bloody freed up the buttons while it was in for a service. Damn them :)

https://motowheels.com/i-9806560-br...ypermotard-diavel-mts1200-supersport-939.html
 

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Discussion Starter #9
How does one lube the buttons, without any of that lube getting on the rotor itself when you ride the bike, and the centrifugal force wants to push that lube out from the buttons and onto the rim?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
NVM, Took a bolt, washer and nut and put a socket for that nut into my cordless drill, and used that to clean and spin the buttons. They seem as clean as they are gonna get I guess. Will test ride it later and see if that helped. I also took out the OEM brake pads and scuffed them up and cleaned them as well. wiped down the rotors and we will see what happens.
 

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NVM, Took a bolt, washer and nut and put a socket for that nut into my cordless drill, and used that to clean and spin the buttons. They seem as clean as they are gonna get I guess. Will test ride it later and see if that helped. I also took out the OEM brake pads and scuffed them up and cleaned them as well. wiped down the rotors and we will see what happens.

I just went through the Exact same thing with my 2014 M796. I bought it used last season with only 1900 miles on it. Put 4400 miles on it last season and noticed a pulsation when braking. I had bike in for service this past winter for belts and valves and the tech mentioned front rotors most likely are warped. So I too began a search for fix's of this problem. I tried everything you mentioned, didn't fix the problem. I replaced pads and rotors myself, bike stops like new! Nice and smooth. I used EBC pads and rotors, $490 for that, and another $40 for special axle tool and 28mm axle nut wrench. Pretty easy, but be careful taking rotor bolts out. Well worth doing.

Mike-
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just went through the Exact same thing with my 2014 M796. I bought it used last season with only 1900 miles on it. Put 4400 miles on it last season and noticed a pulsation when braking. I had bike in for service this past winter for belts and valves and the tech mentioned front rotors most likely are warped. So I too began a search for fix's of this problem. I tried everything you mentioned, didn't fix the problem. I replaced pads and rotors myself, bike stops like new! Nice and smooth. I used EBC pads and rotors, $490 for that, and another $40 for special axle tool and 28mm axle nut wrench. Pretty easy, but be careful taking rotor bolts out. Well worth doing.

Mike-
Yeah, the new pads come today. If that doesn't fix it, and I am not that confident that it will, then rotors are next on the list. I had the EBC Pro Lite XC's on another bike and they were great, so I will probably go with those...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
And of course the part number for the EBC pads that I was given, is wrong, these pads won't fit. Opened up the pack and they are totally different. That was $80 wasted...

Now I have to go and try to find the right ones... sigh...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Called around and Cycle Gear of all places, actually has 2 sets in stock. Heading over now, hope this improves things.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
And the problem is still there. No difference.

So I went to the dealer I bought the bike from and asked them to try and put in a warranty claim. It turns out that the RPM One "Diamond" level after market warranty that I have, covers rotors.

So they took the wheel off and tried to measure how much warp there is but the gauge reported hardly any. But their lead mechanic rode the bike and said, Yup, needs rotors. Regardless of what the measurement is, when they pulse like that, they are out of whack.

So they are gonna call over to RPM One in the morning and see if they can get them to cover them. If not, I will just suck it up and order up a set of EBC Pro Lite XC Contours(330mm) and call it a day.
 

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And the problem is still there. No difference.

So I went to the dealer I bought the bike from and asked them to try and put in a warranty claim. It turns out that the RPM One "Diamond" level after market warranty that I have, covers rotors.

So they took the wheel off and tried to measure how much warp there is but the gauge reported hardly any. But their lead mechanic rode the bike and said, Yup, needs rotors. Regardless of what the measurement is, when they pulse like that, they are out of whack.

So they are gonna call over to RPM One in the morning and see if they can get them to cover them. If not, I will just suck it up and order up a set of EBC Pro Lite XC Contours(330mm) and call it a day.
That will be sweet if gets covered under warranty! I don't know what is going on with these factory Brembo Rotors, but a new set fix the problem for sure.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That will be sweet if gets covered under warranty! I don't know what is going on with these factory Brembo Rotors, but a new set fix the problem for sure.

Good Luck.
Yeah, I told them if they get the repair order approved, to get some EBC Pro Lite, or Galfer wave rotors instead of the OEM's. They are cheaper, and better, even if they are a tad heavier...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Warranty claim denied. They said that even though the contract specifically says that rotors are covered, that they are not gonna cover them. They said it's a "wear" part. The bike just turned 3,000 miles on the Odo and the problem has been there since 1,500 miles when I bought the bike.

Very annoyed that I paid $1500 for a 3 year warranty and the first time I go to use it for a relatively minor and cheap repair, they just deny it. Considering canceling it and getting most of my money back and using some of it to buy new rotors...
 
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