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Please note corrected info in post #19
 

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OK - I just did the diode thing as per Punch's diagram - and it works great! :) I now have a nice bright indicator warning lamp.

The diodes are also available from superbrightleds - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/ - they sell them as a kit to allow LED bulbs in the indicators to work, but the same kit will allow a LED bulb in the indicator warning to work also.

Note: Superbrightleds also have electronic flasher relays, which will allow you to install LEDS in the indicators, without having to stuff around with load resistors. As far as I can tell, either https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13jl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/783/837/ or https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13jl-ar-led-bulb-electronic-adjustable-rate-flasher/1920/4480/ or https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13gl-ar-led-bulb-electronic-adjustable-rate-flasher/1919/4481/ SHOULD (no guarantees, I haven't tried them myself - yet) work OK. In fact they should be plug compatible... but again - no guarantee.


As for the low fuel warning - I've installed the 82 ohm resistor - but rain and darkness stopped me taking things outside to empty some gas out of my tank to test it. Weather forecast for this weekend is looking good - so by Sunday, I should have some more info as to whether it works.
 

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As for the low fuel warning - I've installed the 82 ohm resistor - but rain and darkness stopped me taking things outside to empty some gas out of my tank to test it. Weather forecast for this weekend is looking good - so by Sunday, I should have some more info as to whether it works.
Steve did you ever test the resistor?

Punch thanks for that solution and diagrams. It helps understand it better.
 

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Steve did you ever test the resistor?

Punch thanks for that solution and diagrams. It helps understand it better.
Yes. It didn't work. :( And the available resistors here at that range aren't close enough to the value needed to try some other resistor - so I've decided to just leave that one bulb as an incandescent. At least it works. :) And I'll just keep resetting my trip meter at each gas stop - then I get an idea of when the light is likely to start coming on - and hopefully gas up before then.
 

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Right - finished with the 'testing'... If you want to upgrade your dash lights to daylight visible - use these - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/74-led-bulb-1-smd-led-wedge-base/227/

Get the colour LED that matches the warning light that you want to 'improve' - this gives a brighter colour. Note that the blue high beam, and the green 'lights on' are bright enough that you will probably want to stick a strip of insulating tape over the middle of the 'lens', leaving a strip down either side (or experiment with other '74' LED bulbs, with a lower lumen output). You can still see the warning lights in the daylight - but they're a lot less piercing to the eyes at night. The low fuel warning lamp WILL have to remain as a regular incandescent bulb, and you will need a diode fitted to the indicator warning lamp - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/ - for it to work correctly. If you want to change the actual indicator bulbs to LEDs, you'll need to change the indicator 'flasher' unit, as well as fitting the diode kit. Sorry, I don't have any part numbers for the indicator bulbs.

To convert the backlight (illumination) lights to red, I used a red mini-wedge (as above) for the oil temp gauge, and two of these - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-1-smd-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/204/910/ - in red. These bulbs (in cool white) are what I used for the headlamp 'park' light - they're the only ones that I've had success with getting to fit in the hole. Plus their base works best with the Ducati lamp base holders.



The red doesn't look as good in the photo as it does in real life. The actual red is a very deep red, with no white at all, and the gauges are a lot more readable than the photo shows too.

For the taillight - check the part number that I quote earlier in the thread - it fits, and works well (nice and bright!).




The white LED park light. A whole lot brighter than I had expected, given it's only a single chip.
 

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[*]New coils from California Cycleworks

I would stick with original coils. The one of the ones I bought from CA Cycleworks started having issues 5 months after installing them. Would work great for about 10 min then once it got hot would start cutting out. Went back to the stock coils and have been running fine for the past 2 years (and since 1998 before that).
 

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[*]New coils from California Cycleworks

I would stick with original coils. The one of the ones I bought from CA Cycleworks started having issues 5 months after installing them. Would work great for about 10 min then once it got hot would start cutting out. Went back to the stock coils and have been running fine for the past 2 years (and since 1998 before that).
1. You posted this in the wrong thread. THIS one is about LED's in the dash...

2. Have you contacted CA Cycleworks about your problem? There was a thread here a wee while back regarding some problem coils they had, and they seemed only too happy to help customers out.
 

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I saw threads on a batch of those coils from CA C that were not up to par also, noted they made it right for their customers. I just ordered mine two months ago and they are excellent -
 

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If you want to upgrade your dash lights to daylight visible - use these - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/74-led-bulb-1-smd-led-wedge-base/227/
you will need a diode fitted to the indicator warning lamp - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/ - for it to work correctly.
Ok I'm ready to do this mod. The above mentioned LEDs & diodes arrived today. However I can't understand Punch's diagram for wiring the diodes in to the indicator warning light circuit. Would be thankful for some illumination (pun intended LOL) on this.

Cheers.
 

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Ok I'm ready to do this mod. The above mentioned LEDs & diodes arrived today. However I can't understand Punch's diagram for wiring the diodes in to the indicator warning light circuit. Would be thankful for some illumination (pun intended LOL) on this.

Cheers.
Didi you look at his first diagram (pdf), or the one in this post (at the bottom of the pdf)? http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/482265-wanted-led-bulb-list-95-900ss-2.html#post4834393 Basically, you remove the two wires that attach to the lamp panel for the indicator light, and connect (solder and heat shrink) them to the ends of each diode (one each), then attach the joined ends of the diodes to one (where one of the wires had attached) connection point, and connect an earth wire to the other (easy to jumper one from another part of the panel). Think of a Y - the tail of the Y connects to one of the old wire connection points, and an earth to the other. The two wires from the panel attach to the top of the Y. One each side.

Note that if any LEDs don't light, try removing them, and rotate 180 degrees to change the polarity.

You may want to add some black insulating tape (just a strip - don't cover the entire bezel) to the High Beam and Lights on warning lamps - they can be quite irritating at night. If you just cover the centre, there's still plenty of light to be able to see them in the daylight.

I hope you got the mini-wedge bulbs - saves a bit of messing around trimming things!

If I order any more LEDs from Superbrightleds (likely - I want to 'convert' some of our other vehicles bulbs to LED now...), I'll see if there's some even lower light (lumen) output bulbs available for those two 'on at night' lights.
 

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Didi you look at his first diagram (pdf), or the one in this post
The PDF in post #19

Basically, you remove the two wires that attach to the lamp panel for the indicator light, and connect (solder and heat shrink) them to the ends of each diode (one each), then attach the joined ends of the diodes to one (where one of the wires had attached) connection point, and connect an earth wire to the other (easy to jumper one from another part of the panel). Think of a Y - the tail of the Y connects to one of the old wire connection points, and an earth to the other. The two wires from the panel attach to the top of the Y. One each side.
I ordered the diodes you linked to. There is a Y piece (two reds in to a single black), and a single stand alone black wire in each packet. What I'm unsure about is if the wires from the loom connect to the double wired end of the diodes? And the single ends go to the bulb?


I hope you got the mini-wedge bulbs - saves a bit of messing around trimming things!
Yep, the ones you posted a link to.

Cheers.
 

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Yes the PDF in post #19. The stuff at the top is just an explanation of how the indicators and dash lamp work.

The only thing you need to look at is the diagram and words in "Simple solution" at the bottom of the page.
You only need one kit.
As per the diagram, cut the wires going to the bulb socket.

In the diagram you connect Left signal wire to one of the red wires and Right signal to the other red wire of the "Y" kit you bought.
I.e. on the harness, not bulb side, of the cut wires.
It does not matter which one goes to which red.

The single leg of the Y goes to the positive side of your LED. I.e. solder or whatever to either one of the cut wires to the bulb socket.
The black wire supplied is soldered or whatever to the other cut wire on the bulb socket and is to be connected to any negative wire you can find.

As Steve wrote, if the LED does not flash, simply pull it out, rotate it and plug it back in.
You have a 50/50 chance of it being right first time.
These 12V LEDs have reverse polarity protection and will not blow if you did not plug it in the right way round.
 

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Ok so that explains it. I was confused because two diodes were mentioned and I couldn't work it out as last time I did a wiring mod (Triumph, headlight cut on start) I used one diode; I couldn't see the need for two here.

Thanks mate, I'll get on to it a.s.a.p. (currently bike is stripped down & ready for reassembly).
 

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No worries.

If the harness and indicators etc. are still on the bike, then you can do it whenever.

Also, the kit you bought is exactly the same as my diagram, where the diodes are inside the sleeved part.

Maybe Triumph use a different indicator control method, rather than using the non flashing indicator (cold and low resistance) as the return to battery negative for the dash lamp. E.g one lamp for left and another for right?

For the price of the kit, unless you have some diodes kicking around, it is a very good price.
I guess shipping from the US was more than the kit.
 

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Ah ha, I get it now; simple. There are two diodes in the heat shrink sleeve. I bought two packs (kits) thinking each unit was one diode! No wonder your diagram didn't gel with my two kits (four wires)!
And I remember now I do have a diode in my toolbox, although very small in comparison. There's $5 wasted lol.

Cheers.
 

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Sounds like you're sorted now? Thanks Punch. :) One comment - if you've got your soldering iron hot ready to go - don't cut the wires to the bulb off the panel - just desolder them, which will leave the attach points for the diodes and earth wire ready to go.

Re the spare diode kit - you may be able to pass it on to one of the Aussie members that lurk here?

Re the panel with the lights on - be careful refitting it back into the dash. It's easy to get it misaligned, and possibly break/crack something. It should fit flush (or slightly recessed) into the dash.

While you're in that area - consider wiring in dual relays and heavy wiring to run the headlights (and get a new H4 connector - the OEM ones are a fire waiting to start!). Even with a 55/60W bulb, you'll notice a big difference - and with the new H4 socket and the relays, you're set to run a 90/100W bulb if you so desire (that's what I have in mine now, after the fail with the H4 LED bulb).
 

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Sounds like you're sorted now? Thanks Punch. :) One comment - if you've got your soldering iron hot ready to go - don't cut the wires to the bulb off the panel - just desolder them, which will leave the attach points for the diodes and earth wire ready to go.
Thanks - it would have been a PITA for me to see the connection and soldering is reversible and cutting is not.

Re the spare diode kit - you may be able to pass it on to one of the Aussie members that lurk here?
Alternatively buy another Duc so the $5 is not wasted.
 

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Yep sorted!
And thanks for the soldering tips.
Re headlight wiring: have ordered the Eastern Beaver kit & it should be here any day soon.

.....buy another Duc so the $5 is not wasted.
I don't have room to hide two bikes; I haven't told her what's in the garage yet!

Cheers.
 

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I don't have room to hide two bikes; I haven't told her what's in the garage yet!
Cheers.
Understand completely. My bikes/projects the SS, a 1964 Lambretta resto and a 1959 BSA that will be a cafe racer one day.

At the moment a mate's Benelli TNT Sport that is very sick, but I now know what is wrong with it and waiting for a few parts and then some remapping.
First steps have been undoing all the mistakes made by the PO and who knows who/what else.
I made the cables and have the diagnostic tools to rig with it.

I think/expect that i will have a custom ST2 (Mad Mmax style apparently), Marelli 16M unfortunately, from a dyno owner mate to sort an alternative, programmable ECU to fix the fuel maps.
It is running over 16:1 on WOT !!!!!!!
 
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