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Discussion Starter #1
has anyone tried to do a full body vinyl wrap on a 748-916-996 ?
I did a search and there was a post about it from 8 years ago but the pics were outdated and there isn't a lot of info in specifics.
I hoping to get an idea of how difficult this might be, how to accomplish all the inlets (nose fairing, naca ducts, tail air outlets etc.) how much it took in sq feet, brand recommendations
tips and hints if available.
thanks in advance
-M
 

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Seen it done and seen the problems that come from wrapping motorcycle fairings. The many pieces that need to be cut for vents and tanks don’t look pretty. And they look even less pretty after 12 month of use. Lifting edges and shrinkage. Don’t be coned into it and don’t talk yourself into it. But if you don’t care then go for it.
 

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mjn
Last week I celebrated 30 years in the vinyl sign game. I have used vinyl signs on just about everything. I believe that I did the first whole car wrap in Australia in 1990.
I see many people wanting to use a wrap as a cheaper alternative to painting. Done properly wrapping takes time and is not cheap. People also expect wraps to cover and hide all manner of poor surfaces, if you paint over a poor surface it shows through its the same with vinyl, the film is only 2 thou thick and shows up chips, scratches and crack in the paint.
None of the wrapping films are deigned to last more than three years in ideal conditions, warranties are reduced for horizontal surfaces and for higher temperatures, as experienced in a bike fairing.

Partial wraps can be done in more durable material that are not as conformable as wrapping films which give better life.

Paint is a tougher material than vinyl and gives much better life.

In summary a wrap is best suited for short term uses with regular changes and with no close inspection, that's why they are popular in race situations where sponsors change. If you still insist on wrapping use only premium materials such as Avery Supreme Wrapping Film or 3M 1080. Remember to consider the time taken for removal later
 

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I got one extra set of fairing and other plastic parts when bought my 900ss and decide to wrap it with "carbon" foil.
I'm very satisfied with result, parts are like new. Inner side I paint in black.
Bike isn't finish yet, I wait to get rear part.
Front fender and mirrors are wrap too.

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'00 748s,
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Discussion Starter #6
I got one extra set of fairing and other plastic parts when bought my 900ss and decide to wrap it with "carbon" foil.
I'm very satisfied with result, parts are like new. Inner side I paint in black.
Bike isn't finish yet, I wait to get rear part.
Front fender and mirrors are wrap too.
MIrce.
that looks great, granted the 748,916,996 series has a a bit more "dynamic" openings and curves but it looks like you did cuts and seams to get around some of the more difficult places. gave me a few ideas.
thanks alot
-m
 

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Depending on use I gaurantee is will pull back at the NACA ducts. Carbon fibre are the worst of the films. The best films are good for a 15% stretch, there are places there you have about 30% stretch. some time between 6 and 24 months it will be pulling out of those ducts, the splice joins may lift as well. did you paint the areas where you had feathered out the damage? If not it will lift off in that area, you won't see it until it tears.
Paint will definitely last longer than that and looks far better than the carbon fake film.
 

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Depending on use I gaurantee is will pull back at the NACA ducts. Carbon fibre are the worst of the films. The best films are good for a 15% stretch, there are places there you have about 30% stretch. some time between 6 and 24 months it will be pulling out of those ducts, the splice joins may lift as well. did you paint the areas where you had feathered out the damage? If not it will lift off in that area, you won't see it until it tears.
Paint will definitely last longer than that and looks far better than the carbon fake film.
VERY easy to wrap those fairings. Totally agreed Stillrinalong, it’s not going to look that flash after a year and being an embossed finish dirt and grime will get stuck in the surface voids and then look like crap. If it’s a once a monther 50klm ride it’ll last a while. Not so long a daily.
 

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First, I apologize in English, it's not my native language.
This carbon film coating was done by a person who deals with it professionally, I didn't do it, so I don't know the details.
The foil is folded on the underside and not much "tugged".
Along the edges of the foil, on the inside of the parts, first comes a primer that reinforces the edges of the foil with parts.
Some parts, such as mirrors, are made from three parts of foil (with a small fold), just for pulling and for better durability.

All in all, the parts look new, as if they had left the factory, and that was the motive behind this job.
The Oracal foil is 152 cm wide and needed 2.2 meters for the complete front end + mirrors.
The material cost 100.00 Euros and the master's hands 65.00 Euros.

How parts will look like in a year, two or five, we will see, it doesn't matter to me right now. The foil can always be removed without damaging the parts, so everything can be painted.
To me, this was more an experiment to see what a motorcycle would look like in a "carbon look".

When a black tail is placed and the stickers set up, motorcycles will look different, it will certainly be unusual and a bit unique.
Whether one likes it or not, the flavors are not discussed... :)
 

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Mirce
I have some bad news for you if a primer has been used removal will not be simple. That is a very reasonable price for a wrap job. Folds create as many problems as stretching, the fold becomes a channel for dirt, water and road grime to wick under the film. I hope it does what you want, but as I said at the start I have been installing vinyl films for 30 years and do not recommend wrapping for a road bike.
 

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I’ve even stopped doing stone protection film on Ducati’s. Had to many have the paint clear coat delaminate when removing the film.
 
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