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Discussion Starter #1
I am completing the 12000 mile valve adjustment on my 04 ST3 and 5 of the valves require closer shim adjustments. I do not have a shim kit, so I will be ordering individual shims.

Instead of taking of every shim and measuring, can I go of the current #'s stenciled on the shim? I pulled off the first shim(horizontal exhaust) and it measured as advertised.

To save myself a ton of work I think I am ordering based on stenciled #'s and not actual measurements, since the first one was 100% accurate. Does anyone completely disagree with this method?

So far this has been a little challenging, but it was also my first valve. Hopefully each one gets a little easier:think:
 

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your method may work. it may not. my nearest shop will swap shims with me. after many 20 mile round trips doing this, i just ordered the complete shim kit from ems. for me, this was much easier, and less stressful when i'm up to my armpits in desmoistification. YMMV:D

i also had 5 closers out of spec at 12,000 miles. after carefully measuring everything and installing the new shims.......most of the clearances were way too tight! i called ems and talked to them (mike, i think, very nice guy). what can happen, depending on many things is: the collet to valve stem relationship can change....resulting in a bad clearance measurement. on some of these valves, i simply installed the same NEW shim, and was back in spec. i really don't know where i'm going with this post, but.....it's nice to have the whole kit when doing this service yourself.
 

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+1 on EMS, he's a sponsor here and a good guy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I went ahead and ordered shims from a dealer today. Unfortunately it will take about seven days to get them, so I hope it works out. I ordered based on the higher tolerance number just to give me a little buffer. I think if I ordered based on the lower tolerance number, it would be too tight. I guess while I wait I will tackle the belts and fuel filter. Wish there was a dealer in Savannah.:rolleyes:
 

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I have found that the numbers marked on the shims can be off by a shim size. Measuring closer shims accurately requires a tool that fits down inside the closer shim and registers on the counterbore. You only have a very small land to register on as the radius is almost tangent to the bore. With tolerances in the tool and the shim during manufacture I would not recommend simply going by the number on the shim. I would get the measureing tool and measure it yourself. I have a diagram on my website showing the measureing tool installed (on a 2V, 8 mm shim) but the concept is the same or a 7 mm shim.

There are other measureing tools out there that can give the wrong size. Not all but I have had customers measure using a different tool than mine, calculate the shim size, order from me, and get the wrong size. The shims graduate in .05 mm increments (.0019 inches), so you can see why you can get a different size than you expected. .0019 inches is smaller than the width of a hair.

Mike
 

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Mr Leakered
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I am completing the 12000 mile valve adjustment on my 04 ST3 and 5 of the valves require closer shim adjustments. I do not have a shim kit, so I will be ordering individual shims.

Instead of taking of every shim and measuring, can I go of the current #'s stenciled on the shim? I pulled off the first shim(horizontal exhaust) and it measured as advertised.

To save myself a ton of work I think I am ordering based on stenciled #'s and not actual measurements, since the first one was 100% accurate. Does anyone completely disagree with this method?

So far this has been a little challenging, but it was also my first valve. Hopefully each one gets a little easier:think:
I believe you will want to be very caution with this method. If you are ordering individual shim, you need to know your measurements are nuts on.

As it was mentioned, your gaps will change simple due to reinstallation of the half rings. As a piece of advice, keep the half rings with their respective valves.

I was thrilled that I purchased the kit as I had to do a coople valves twice.

One other thing, you will find that the bike will generally run best at the tightest tolerance.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I purchased the tool for measuring the closer shim and it worked great! The number was exactly what was stenciled on the shim. I know I kind of took a gamble on by ordering based on the numbers for the rest of the valves, but if they don't work, I will measure each individual shim and reorder.

I will be sure to keep the half rings on the same valves.

Thanks for the input.
 

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A common method of opening clearances is to grind the existing shim. You can easily remove 0.002", and it's a great way to get spot-on clearances if you are that way inclined. I wouldn't trust the stenciled number on them but you might be safe on the very first valve clearance check since nobody's been in there since assembly.
 

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I just finished up doing my first valve adjustments on the ST3 today. Wow! Now I understand why people who do their own are considered such wizards! What a royal pain in the butt! Actually, after doing it once it's ain't so bad but that first closer is a Mo&)*% F%$$#.

Like someone else here said, the size markings on the shims are like road signs in Italy, they are only suggestions. You must measure them to be sure.
 

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I haven't run into any shims that were mismarked, but had to try a couple of different sizes on a valve or two. The EMS shim kit is a lifesaver. Plus, Its good for adjusting superbikes, too.
 

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I haven't run into any shims that were mismarked, but had to try a couple of different sizes on a valve or two. The EMS shim kit is a lifesaver. Plus, Its good for adjusting superbikes, too.
I consider myself extremely lucky in that the same shims work on my Monster, ST3 and 999.
 

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A few things I have learned:

Using the same closer shim and installing new collets can tighten up the clearance by .03mm.

Go to Desmotimes and buy a book, a closer measuring tool, forceps, engine turning tool.

The most difficult part of an ST3 valve adjustment reinstallaing the fairing.

L.
 

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Mr Leakered
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Sorry, but for the ST, I'd skip the engine turning tool and get the depressor tool. LT's talked me into it and I'm glad he did. Otherwise the head would have been off to replace several valve seals.

I found the engine could easily be turned by rotation the rear wheel in 1st gear with the plugs out. The engine turning tool requires the plugs to be out also.

Also, the tiny feelers that LT sales were priceless.

Unfortunately the first home valve adjust costs just about as much as a shop if including the shim kit, but if you have multiple bikes, others to share the cost, or simply wait for the very next service to start paying yourself from the investment.

Have a good one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I am currently waiting on new shims from a Ducati dealer. I did purchase my specials tool and other parts from LT , and they work great.

The fairing doesn't bother me very much, but I think the reassembly of the valves is going to suck. I'm not an octopus, so I think I will need a buddy to hold the plunger while I put the shims and collets on the valve.

The belts were way too easy to remove and replace. Something must be wrong.;)
 

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Mr Leakered
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Nope, it sounds about right. Two things. Wrap a long screwdriver in duct tape or electrical tape. You can insert it through the cam bearing hole to pry the closer rocker away from the shim stack.

When you re-assemble the upper fairing, installed the mirrors first. On my 01, doing this first seems to help me align all the other upper fairing fasteners.

Have a good one.
 
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