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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey, Folks.

I finally got motivated to get the valve check done. I've had the parts for a couple months now. Haha!

The first task was an attempt to fix the last remaining part that could be causing an oil / coolant leak, the impeller seal. I tried head gaskets and I still get a bit oil residue in the overflow and a bit of foamy oil in the sight glass even in the summer. It is so little that I should not be concerned, but . . .

Whoever pulled the left cover on this replacement motor used both a CA CW gasket and Threebond. It was hours carefully scraping it all off. Thankful, the cover was the only challenge. The crankcase side cleaned up much easier. The bad part was that I somehow screwed up the impeller seal order. I ordered the part ending in "A" instead of "B." :unsure: It is not the right part as it puts no pressure on the seal. Thankfully, I had the spare from the old motor in the crawlspace. We'll see how well that works out. :rolleyes:

The valves were in pretty great shape. Just a few swaps. The best part was that my younger daughter came down to the garage and we spent 2hrs chatting about how motors work. With the engine opened up, she could see it in action.

The real oddity was the belts. I slapped on the vert and then tried the horizontal. When I finally got it in place, it was pinging at 137Hz without touching the adjuster. The vert was giving a normalish 50Hz or so. Thankfully, swapping them gave me something to work with. I have never had that problem before. We'll see how that goes also.

I am thankful to be able to get some riding in now.

Have a good one.
 

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Registered
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6,726 Posts
I changed belts on my SS a couple of years ago. Everything went fine. I decided to leave the belt covers off . Lucky I did, because someone asked me to hear it run and when I started it I noticed one of the belts dancing around crazily. I shut down immediately. The tensioners were tight, yet one belt was extremely loose. I was on vacation, closest dealer about 100 mi away, so I decided to tighten it back up and try it . The belt looked fine. I had no more problems with it after that. I have no idea why it became loose, I could find nothing wrong.
When I got home, I changed the toothed washers on the tensioners for some with sharper teeth. I never figured out if the belt stretched or a tensioner slipped.
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I changed belts on my SS a couple of years ago. Everything went fine. I decided to leave the belt covers off . Lucky I did, because someone asked me to hear it run and when I started it I noticed one of the belts dancing around crazily. I shut down immediately. The tensioners were tight, yet one belt was extremely loose. I was on vacation, closest dealer about 100 mi away, so I decided to tighten it back up and try it . The belt looked fine. I had no more problems with it after that. I have no idea why it became loose, I could find nothing wrong.
When I got home, I changed the toothed washers on the tensioners for some with sharper teeth. I never figured out if the belt stretched or a tensioner slipped.
That is pretty crazy. Belts do loosen up, but not that much. Haha! I have measured mine coming off a couple times. They usually end up at about 60Hz to 70Hz.

I couple services back, I did install the horizontal one tooth off due to parallax. I tried to fix it right away, but the on a hot motor, the tension is almost 140Hz and does not cool very fast.

For shakedown runs, I do wish that we could run for a short time with the covers off, but that I just not possible for the fuel line and harness setup on the ST.

Things seem fine though. I always have a worry after the belt snap several years ago.

Have a good one.
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
What are you using for a spec on your belts?
I set new belts between 100-110 (cold and at TDC for each cyl). Used I set at 100Hz
It is not uncommon to see a belt that was set at 110 be at 80 in 7000 miles so new belts do loosen as they break in .
Like you, 100Hz +/-1Hz.

Yes, I am not surprised by the stretch during use. The amount of tensioning with heat is pretty cool though. Metal expands, but we don't often get to see its effects laid bare.

Have a good one.
 

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Registered
‘07 ST3s
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370 Posts
Are you using OEM belts or aftermarket type ... interested as I have used the OEM only as I have only Allen key at my disposal for tension after 4 or 5 belt changes no issues yet , just kinda worry using the aftermarket with my method of tensioning , thanks for your thoughts
Craig
 

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Super Moderator
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4,973 Posts
Are you using OEM belts or aftermarket type ... interested as I have used the OEM only as I have only Allen key at my disposal for tension after 4 or 5 belt changes no issues yet , just kinda worry using the aftermarket with my method of tensioning , thanks for your thoughts
Craig
The allen key method isn't supposed to be used for the ST3 with either OEM or aftermarket belts. But, if it's working for you, then great.
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Are you using OEM belts or aftermarket type ... interested as I have used the OEM only as I have only Allen key at my disposal for tension after 4 or 5 belt changes no issues yet , just kinda worry using the aftermarket with my method of tensioning , thanks for your thoughts
Craig
I have only used the CA CW belts since they launched them. Also just after I bought the ST4 back in 2008, the vibration tensioning method took off. So, I only ever tensioned them with a computer program or phone app.

The CA CW belts are supposed to be constructed very similar to the OEM belts. I did have one of the CA CW belts snap, but I was purposefully extending the intervals. That can only be my fault. Afterward, I have been sticking with 6k.

Have a good one.
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Years ago I had a 2-valve adjustment seminar and we set a belt at 110hz and then ran the bike up to where b the gauge just started to read numbers (s2r1000 IIRC). at this point I remeasured the same belt and it was at least double the tension.
That is really cool. With the QC Mod, I do like hearing the belts whir.

Have a good one.
 

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‘07 ST3s
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370 Posts
Thanks , belt changes usually done close to Schedule .... no problems ever with my method , I do shy away from non OEM belts though , just in case .... have read of belt breakage on others .... not looking to start major controversy , but I view the belt schedule as very conservative compared to lots of other applications with cam belts .... not a lot of miles on my ST3 yet ,around 42000 , belts so far have appeared as new at change , no deterioration at all visually ....
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks , belt changes usually done close to Schedule .... no problems ever with my method , I do shy away from non OEM belts though , just in case .... have read of belt breakage on others .... not looking to start major controversy , but I view the belt schedule as very conservative compared to lots of other applications with cam belts .... not a lot of miles on my ST3 yet ,around 42000 , belts so far have appeared as new at change , no deterioration at all visually ....
When I was using the Duc belts, they came off looking rough. The CA CW belts would come off looking a lot better. But you are right, there have been a few reports of the CA CW belts snapping.

For me though, I can justify it in my head. I have saved so much doing the maint work at home that the snap and subsequent engine failure was no big deal. $2k for a fresh replacement motor was less that two or three shop services.

If I have another major failure, I will just look at it as a signal to move on. The lightweight, plated, Japanese enduro dreams are really taking hold. I miss having two bikes. If I had a bit more space a WR450F would have already landed. At the next ST service, it will have been 100k with me in the seat and 120k on the bike total. It does still make me smile though. There's nothing like it on the market. The VFR800 comes close though.

Have a good one.
 

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‘07 ST3s
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370 Posts
I started in the dirt MX , then street scambler then honest road bikes , always looking for an older 450-650 to turn into green laner , no room in shed and just don’t have the heart to part with any of the 3 now living with me .....
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I started in the dirt MX , then street scambler then honest road bikes , always looking for an older 450-650 to turn into green laner , no room in shed and just don’t have the heart to part with any of the 3 now living with me .....
That was my big mistake. I finally got a shed for the lawnmower. A few weeks later Costco had the perfect shed that I should have bought. It would have held the enduro nicely. I had been waiting years for Costco to off a reasonably sized shed in-store.

Just no room in the garage with the ST and the Tacoma that replaced the Ural.

Have a good one.
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,811 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The early evidence is showing that the OG impeller seal is at least keeping the coolant out of the oil. There's no visible fogging in the oil sight windows.

I will try to see what the overflow bottle looks like in a little while. I was getting some oil in the coolant also.

Have a good one.
 
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