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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just about done with my first attempt at adjusting the valves on my 08 hypermotard but I've hit a snag. When I was putting the half ring back on the valve stem it got wedged in this vertical position and now I cant get it back out. It's got the closing shim "stuck" to the valve now so when I push the closing rocker arm the closing shim just stays locked onto the valve stem and moves with the it. I've tried getting some needle nose pliers to try and get it out but no luck. The closing shim squeezing it means it's too much for my magnet to grab too. Here's what I'm looking at. Desperate for help/ideas...
 

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Grab it with a set of foreceps or tiny needle-nose (jewelery maybe) pliers covered in surgical tubing... No scratches...

They sell them at places like Michael's or any other arts and crafts store for doing wire work (I stole my wife's)

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

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Not sure how your picture is hosted, all I see is a minus sign in the middle of the screen, but I have a variety of hemostats including some small ones for situations like you describe. Some have the teeth ground off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
lock the rocker down, use the piston to hold the valve up and tap the shim down. easy.
I can't have the piston up and be able to push down on the closer rocker right?

Needenose pliers and hemostats don't have enough grip to overcome how much it's being wedge by the closing shim.
 

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I can't have the piston up and be able to push down on the closer rocker right?

Needenose pliers and hemostats don't have enough grip to overcome how much it's being wedge by the closing shim.
Yes you can. Brad is saying with the piston at TDC, allow the valve to drop down in contact with the top of the piston by holding the rocker arm as far down as it will go. Then tap lightly on the closer shim and it should drop down to release the half ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
.... by holding the rocker arm as far down as it will go.
Hmm, I must be doing something wrong or missing something because at TDC the closer rocker arm can just barely be pushed (that's how the total gap or loaded gap was calculated in the first place). This ~.10mm isn't enough to move the closing shim. The only position I can move the closer rocker is when the piston is at the bottom. What am I missing here? I've got a ducati espresso cup in the mail for whoever gets me sorted out...
 

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I can't have the piston up and be able to push down on the closer rocker right?

Needenose pliers and hemostats don't have enough grip to overcome how much it's being wedge by the closing shim.
it just amazes me how complicated you guys make the valve adjustment process. i'll have to get mike to do a video with me of how to do it way simpler. watching the ones on youtube makes me want to yell at the screen.

do you have the belts off? if not, remove.

rotate the cam around so that you can push the closing rocker down.

if you look at the closing rocker pivot, one side has a spring, the other doesn't. on yours, that's rh and lh. take something that is around 8mm od and, with the rocker pushed down, slide that in beside the closing rocker on the side without spring (lh in your pic). it will sit under the end of the closing rocker that the cam runs on, and hold the rocker down at the valve end. on the ds you need to angle it in behind the valve a little (going lh to rh in your pic). take some time to practice, but it's easy. then the rocker is fixed down. depending on access, on the ds style motors i often put my long 8mm ball end hex key through from the other side (under the rocker spring side of that rocker) and use it to hold the rocker down. on the older 2v motors there was no need as it was easy from the working side, but the ds is a bit tighter.

take your Needenose pliers and hemostats and chuck them in the fucking bin. or in your toolbox in case you need them for some other totally unrelated job.

rotate the engine around (i use the back wheel, others will demand you use a turning tool) until the piston comes up to tdc and the valve lifts. you will see it, or put your finger on the valve (as i do it) and feel for it to lift and stop. on the ds you sometimes need to lower the piston again to allow the valve to drop a little to get the shim off as it will otherwise hit the opening rocker, even if it is all the way up. to allow the opening rocker to come all the way up you rotate the cam around and lift the rocker and that becomes clear.

you can move the engine around to use the piston to lift the valve up again. although it seems really obvious to me, i know that i need to qualify every comment i make on here these days, so i'll add a simple word to this procedure. GENTLY. you know, nice and easy and no sharp or hard movements. if shit gets hard, or stops, you stop. ffs.

so, now the rocker is held down, and the valve is held up and nothing is stopping the closing shim from dropping a little. so now i get my knocking tool, which preferably is a 3/8 socket extension for me, and tap the shim down (ie, you hold the extension and move it up and down, not get a hammer and hit it. again, gently). you may want to grab the collet as you do this, up to you. i'd probably not as a little tap should move the shim nicely and you just pick the collet out. but saying that, you may never see that particular collet again as it flies off into space so be prepared.

the ds closing springs can be fairly firm, so it might help the end of your fingy to put the opening shim on as you push. i often hook my fingers around the the back of the exhaust port boss and somewhere on the inlet side (can't think of where now) and push down with my thumb. again, once you get a feel for it, it's pretty easy.

hth.
 

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While not directly related, make damn sure you have the oil galley plugged while doing this.
 

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While not directly related, make damn sure you have the oil galley plugged while doing this.
or live on the edge. i've never blocked the drain holes, never lost a collet either. maybe once i did, but i have a little round magnet in a thin piece of vacuum hose that fits down them just fine.

no where near as bad as dropping a laverda triple valve shim down the spark plug hole. :surprise:
 

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Hey Brad, apart from your excellent videos, these pics are also quite helpful - thanks again!
 
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