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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I went for a ride on my 748 early in the morning yesterday. It was cold out (~ 6 oC) and the temperature gauge showed it just above 60 oC for most of my 1.5 hour trip (was a sunrise event). Most of the ride was 100 km/h @ 6000rpm+ and I had my high beam on almost all the time for that duration (wildlife!!).

It was a bit reluctant to start in the cold, but not terribly unusual. When I got to the venue, I had to stop and start a few times, and each time it got harder and harder to start until it refused to start at all. The return trip I had to bump-start a few times. :( It didn't recharge itself on the way back.

I've got it on the charger now, but do you guys think this is normal? I did some searches and stumbled the alternator nut thing, which I don't think has been checked in 20,000 kms. Could that be causing this?

Cheers,

bj.


PS. If you need to get a bit of extra juice out the battery for bump starting, you can pull the headlight rubber off and disconnect the ground wire.
 

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Come in Spinner :)
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Sounds like you voltage regulator has died.
Also check the 3 yellow wires at the connector behind the battey box and see if it's burnt.

.
 
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2004 998S FE, 2000 748B, 1986 750 F1
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Hey all,

I went for a ride on my 748 early in the morning yesterday. It was cold out (~ 6 oC) and the temperature gauge showed it just above 60 oC for most of my 1.5 hour trip (was a sunrise event). Most of the ride was 100 km/h @ 6000rpm+ and I had my high beam on almost all the time for that duration (wildlife!!).

It was a bit reluctant to start in the cold, but not terribly unusual. When I got to the venue, I had to stop and start a few times, and each time it got harder and harder to start until it refused to start at all. The return trip I had to bump-start a few times. :( It didn't recharge itself on the way back.

I've got it on the charger now, but do you guys think this is normal? I did some searches and stumbled the alternator nut thing, which I don't think has been checked in 20,000 kms. Could that be causing this?

Cheers,

bj.


PS. If you need to get a bit of extra juice out the battery for bump starting, you can pull the headlight rubber off and disconnect the ground wire.
Apart from Davy-j has said, how old is your battery?

Whilst it is never a bad thing to have your alternator nut checked, this isn't the problem.

Recently my bike needed a shock from a boost pack and a bump or two, cold weather plays havoc with batteries that are on their way out. We pulled the headlight fuse out to make bumping a bit easier.
 

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degree symbol °
hold alt then hit 0176 = °
neat huh?
I don't know nuttin about your charging:D
 

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1.5 hours and you lost charge? definitely an alternator problem, it has nothing to do with running the high beam. I always run with my high beam on and never had any issues. your alternator is obviously not charging the battery when the bike is running.
 

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Another obvious thing to check (so obvious I never thought of it) is the 40 amp charging fuse that sits next to the starter solenoid just in front of the battery.
If this is blown the alternator won't charge the battery.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Managed to switch off the charger by mistake last night -_- It's back on today and it looks like the battery isn't budging off 11.72V. Maybe I've killed another battery or my charger has kicked the bucket.

This battery is only 7-8 months old, and was a replacement for the previous one which also lasted about that much time. Both were installed by the battery shop new. Neither was Yuasa, first was same model number but different manufacturer, this one is some SLA type.

I'm going to head down to the shop tomorrow and see if this one is dead too. I wonder if my bike is killing the batteries somehow... or the shop is selling dud batteries...

The Reg/Rec wiring looked fine. There's no plug, the wires come out of the loom and go straight into RR body. Unless the plug is hidden somewhere behind the battery cage... The 40A fuse was in good shape too.
 

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Should be simple to check the voltage while it is running to see if the charging system is running. I haven't done this on my bike yet, but on cars it hould read above 12.8V and most likely below 15.8V. You don't want it either high (overcharging the battery to kill it) or low (just not charging and deep cycling the battery). On cars, you can disconnect the battery (just the positive terminal is needed) once it is running and it should still run fine and read above 12.8V. If the battery is bad, it will also most likely run itself down shortly after charging.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I couldn't get to it to the battery shop today because of starting issues and work. And tomorrow turns out to be a public holiday :mad: So I did some poking around anyway, and progress!

I removed the battery from the bike completely, and connected it to the charger. While doing that I discovered that a plug on the charger wasn't fully inserted! Pushed it in, and battery looks to be charging okay (currently 12.65V after about 1.5 hours).

Then I started pulling connectors, fuses and relays out and inspecting the contacts. Dusty, but mostly okay. I pulled off the battery holder and found the Reg/Rec plugs you guys were talking about.

I think I found the problem -- the 3x yellow plug shows signs of sparking and has discolored brown. It hasn't melted yet though... I'm thinking of cleaning the connectors (they are covered with some kind of grease?) and bending the contacts slightly so they mate properly. Does that sound right?

How do you guys/clean protect the contacts? I'm thinking a light spray of WD-40 and a "roughing up" with a small screwdriver.

Cheers,

BJ
 

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2004 998S FE, 2000 748B, 1986 750 F1
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I couldn't get to it to the battery shop today because of starting issues and work. And tomorrow turns out to be a public holiday :mad: So I did some poking around anyway, and progress!

I removed the battery from the bike completely, and connected it to the charger. While doing that I discovered that a plug on the charger wasn't fully inserted! Pushed it in, and battery looks to be charging okay (currently 12.65V after about 1.5 hours).

Then I started pulling connectors, fuses and relays out and inspecting the contacts. Dusty, but mostly okay. I pulled off the battery holder and found the Reg/Rec plugs you guys were talking about.

I think I found the problem -- the 3x yellow plug shows signs of sparking and has discolored brown. It hasn't melted yet though... I'm thinking of cleaning the connectors (they are covered with some kind of grease?) and bending the contacts slightly so they mate properly. Does that sound right?

How do you guys/clean protect the contacts? I'm thinking a light spray of WD-40 and a "roughing up" with a small screwdriver.

Cheers,

BJ
If it is the 3 phase plug from the alternator then see here - you don't actually need the plug itself http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-supe...ing-my-998-intermittent-starting-issue-2.html
 

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This is the simplest, easiest way to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After hours of painstaking heart surgery, I performed the connector-ectomy and replaced it with a terminal block like davy.j. I figure it's the most robust option outside of soldering. For the people who soldered their wires, do you cut/solder every time you do your timing belts?




I'm not certain I got the wires exactly matched up as before, but the order isn't important right? While I was there I did tested the resistances between the wires, all are about 2.5 ohms. None of them are shorting to earth either.

Finally powered up the bike with a full battery (which I discovered was only 10Ah), and it was putting out a steady 14.1V above about 3000 RPM. So far so good... but after a few moments the lights dimmed slightly and the voltage went to about 12.5. It's as though some large load just switched on... It wouldn't really budge from that when revved.. :confused::confused: Hang on... might have pressed the brake?

Rode around for a bit, nothing out of the ordinary. Parked in the garage is 12.68V, will have to monitor it... I think I will order a Shorai 18Ah battery, do any 916-series people have issues with it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Also, I think the cause of the connector dying was because of how it was mounted. I found it wedged between the battery cage and the belt cover. The vibration in there is bound to have caused sparking in the contacts.

I've routed my cables under the left side of the battery cage and made sure it's slack when bolted up. I also put a cover of electrical tape over everything as a "water barrier". Funny they didn't use water-tight connectors here!
 

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it was putting out a steady 14.1V above about 3000 RPM ... but after a few moments the lights dimmed slightly and the voltage went to about 12.5 ... Parked in the garage is 12.68V
This is typical behavior of a voltage regulator that is failing to charge when it gets hot internally.
 

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For the people who soldered their wires, do you cut/solder every time you do your timing belts?
Umm no, I took the belt covers off yesterday for the bike's 60,000km service and just pushed everything out of the way.
 

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The plug did the same on mine, so i replaced the connectors with 8mm fittings as the
std ones are 6mm plus made the single two spade plug into two single spade plugs
better cooling air around them.
Having the plugs is much better for removing the reg/rec for maintenance, not a fan of the
solder the wires together but each person has a preferred way.:)
The 3 wire plug dont make any difference how you connect the wires/order or the
older 2 wire plug.
I would agree with Shazaam it sounds like your reg/rec is on its way out
when getting warmed up.
Re the shorai battery thats the next upgrade to mine when the old yussa gives up,
have one fitted to a different bike and well impressed with its quality/performance.

brian.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I rigged up a little LCD voltmeter and blue-tacked it onto my triple clamp so I could keep an eye on the voltage. Today it did the same thing, 13.6 V when revved for a few moments, then back down to 12.2.

The thing is, it drops down to 11.9V at idle, and 12.2 when revved at all, so the R/R is doing a little bit it seems. Maybe only one phase is still working. Anywho, I'm going to the dealer tomorrow to get me a new one. I wonder how many hundreds they want for that. =/ (Not ordering over the net because I don't have a car, and don't fancy my chances during the shipping time.)

Meanwhile, I'm just gonna charge my battery every night. At least that seems to be performing great.
 
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