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I'll buy your old OEM unit if you are to sell it (and price is obtainable for me). I have the axial base master and been looking at upgrading to the 848,multistrada front master cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll buy your old OEM unit if you are to sell it (and price is obtainable for me). I have the axial base master and been looking at upgrading to the 848,multistrada front master cylinders.
I will let you know how it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The master is on the way.

In addition to the master, a reservoir mounting solution is extra and required.

I ordered the dedicated brembo mounting kit. May be the way to go because my front turn signal bracket is shared with the reservoir bracket.

https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=604

And the Kurvey Girl Ladybird Bracket. Cooler looking, will require tygon hose.

Not sure which will work best.

https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=654

The RCS lever has a TWM aftermarket shorty blade available if that becomes an issue:

https://www.motomillion.com/products/twm-low-drag-half-lever-for-brembo-rcs-15-16-17-18-19?variant=17730292611

 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Took the hyper for a ride this AM with the new Brembo Corsa Corta 19mm master set at full race parameter settings.

The knob on the master body, labeled 1 in the attached pic, has 3 settings, normal, sport and race. It is supposed to allow adjusting the amount of slack from the initial pull of the lever. Normal has more slack, race has less.

If you are familiar with remote control vehicles, this seems to be similar to expo adjustment on a transmitter. See attached pic. Variability of dead zone before brake pads bite.
Expo hides deficient operator modulation from initiating a pull. No reason to be forced to have it, this master allows you to dial it out.

In race setting the initial pull provides brake bite feedback from the pads right away with the most miniscual lever pull.
The stock master has an initial dead zone that cannot be adjusted out. That mushy feeling, the need for a double pull or long pull before the pads react seems to be designed into the master on purpose. It is not designed for high performance riding, it is designed for the average rider IMHO. We are better than that.

In race setting that mushy phenomenon is gone.

This is very interesting because everyone blames the ABS system for the mushy feeling on initial pull, but it seems to be related to the design of the master.

Adjustment 3 in the pic below allows for 18 or 20 mm leverage settings.

The adjustment is to change the load point (master piston pin) between the fulcrum (pivot bolt) and the force applied to the lever and it changes the geometry of the lever pull.

At 18, the load (master pin) is closer to the fulcrum, so less force is needed to produce the same amount of power but you lose some modulation.

I like it a lot.

Some may find it too twitchy and having a firm feeling, but it is exactly what I was looking for.

I like to be able to build full brake pressure with little lever travel, and without too much force. This requires a fine touch. I don't need my lever to be mushy to prevent my misuse of the brakes.

With the slack gone, feedback comes through the tires to the bar into your hands giving you the information required to modulate the braking before the lever has moved much at all. Modulation is through adjusting finger pressure force, not travel.

With remote control electronics, this setting is similar to dual rates.

Some people like longer travel to help modulate pressure.

I will test that setting out tomorrow on 20. Load further from fulcrum, less power produced but greater modulation.

Adjustability is what you get with this unit. Great to be able to find what works for you.

Cool device!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The adjustment available on the lever allows you to place the load (master pin) at either 18 and 20 mm from the fulcrum. The system is a 2nd class lever, like a wheel barrow or a nutcracker lever. The closer the load is to the fulcrum, the less force and greater travel distance is required to lift or push the load a given distance.

At 18mm of the pin from the pivot, you can produce stronger braking force with less lever force. Better mechanical advantage.

At 20mm you require more lever pressure to get the same stopping force, but you need less lever travel.

I prefer the feel and action at the 18mm point.




 

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I love mine...installed it on an m821...It is full of adjustments....that race setting is no joke...your braking immediately!...you know that moment you first pull the brake lever...well in the race setting your already parked removing your helmet in the same span of time...lol... it is something to experience but if your not a hard breaker you might not even notice what the setting was all about...I'm happy...a bit pricey...the brake feedback is like taking the rubber end of a doorstop and cutting it in half...it's also got unbelievable modulation...I was going long into a guardrail...I was able to get the rear end back on the ground and modulate the brake for a beautiful roll out at the last possible moment...I suppose the ending really does justify the means...lol...so worth it!



 

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It sure looks nice - but if a soft lever is the only problem - i'll stand by the fact that it is due to not clearing the ABS circuit. I've followed a procedure that has given me firm brakes for 2 years now:

Bleed and fill calipers
Spread calipers and remove fluid via the MC - forcing CLEAN fluid through the ABS pump
fill calipers
bleed calipers

At this point they're either firm already, or zipping the lever overnight will do the trick.

Also, per the manual, I limit the lever travel during the bleeding.

Still - your new MC looks very nice - interested in how it all goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It sure looks nice - but if a soft lever is the only problem - i'll stand by the fact that it is due to not clearing the ABS circuit. I've followed a procedure that has given me firm brakes for 2 years now:

Bleed and fill calipers
Spread calipers and remove fluid via the MC - forcing CLEAN fluid through the ABS pump
fill calipers
bleed calipers

At this point they're either firm already, or zipping the lever overnight will do the trick.

Also, per the manual, I limit the lever travel during the bleeding.

Still - your new MC looks very nice - interested in how it all goes.
My dealer told me that Ducati Factory does not recommend the lever tie down overnight approach. They claim it can damage the ABS pump. I have no idea why that would be so, but I am complying with that directive.

This new master is working out great for me. I have used it on the the track for 2 days, and on the street since installation. Very subjective matter, but I like the way the brakes feel compared to the stock master.
 

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My dealer told me that Ducati Factory does not recommend the lever tie down overnight approach. They claim it can damage the ABS pump. I have no idea why that would be so, but I am complying with that directive.

This new master is working out great for me. I have used it on the the track for 2 days, and on the street since installation. Very subjective matter, but I like the way the brakes feel compared to the stock master.
You don't want to clamp it down, just moderately firm pressure so bubbles rise to the MC. Anyway, we're both happy and that's the important thing here :)

Down the road it might be something I'd consider if it improves the feel - first I have to deal with my suspension!.
 
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