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76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Unfortunately, one of my QD's broke the other day (giving me a nice little gas bath when I propped up the tank to take a look.) Fortunately, I had already ordered some metal ones, since other Ducati owners have had similar issues (an aluminum tank nut will be next on the list.) Because of this, I have decided to do a how-to, in case anybody else is interested in upgrading, or needs to replace their broken quick disconnects. I will also be discussing the extraction process of the old, broken connector. Note that I am working with a 1997 Ducati 748, and therefore the process may vary somewhat, with other models, but this process should be identical for 748, 916, 996, etc. Superbike series motorcycles.

Cost of complete upgrade: $88.15 USD, shipped (at the time of writing this article). Fittings were sourced from Quickcouplings.net.
Note: The "V" at the end of the part number represents Viton o-rings. They are impervious to gasoline, and in my opinion, well worth the $2 upgrade!

Why they fail: The reason that mine has failed, was due to the fact that the plastic, which was old, and sitting directly over a hot cylinder, had cracked, and broken in half. Plastic doesn't really age as well as you may think, and does not like heat, as both will cause it to become brittle.

Is it necessary to upgrade to metal clips? No. But it is a really good investment. After all, why replace inferior plastic parts with more inferior plastic parts? Plus, the metal clips can be found for around the same cost (or, in many cases, less) than the cheap plastic counterpart.

Difficulty level: 2-3, slightly more, if you are replacing a broken connector.

Pain in the butt level: 2. (The connectors are a slight pain in the butt to get a tool around the hex flange.) 3.5, if dealing with a broken connector.

Average time involved for a novice: 1-2 hours. Roughly twice that, if your fitting is broken, as you will need to take additional steps to properly remove the remains, and all debris.

Tools you will need:
*5mm Allen head driver.
*19mm open-ended (or combination) wrench.
*Your motorcycle key.
*PEX hose clamp crimper.
*Screw extractors (if dealing with a broken connector.)
Metalworking hand tool Tool

Materials you will need:
*X2 female connectors. part# LCD10004V.
*X2 male connectors. part# LCD23006V.
*Two stainless steel PEX/Oetiker hose clamps.
*Teflon tape.
Finger Metal Hand Auto part Ring

If able, ride the motorcycle until the fuel light comes on. This will make tank removal much easier.

Before you start. Disconnect your battery, since you are opening up your fuel system. Also, make sure that ALL WORK is performed in a well ventilated area.

Section 1. Female connector (tank side) replacement.

Step 1: Tank removal pt.1.
Insert your key in the lock cylinder, found on the left-hand side of the motorcycle, under the seat cowl. Turn the key clockwise, as you lift the rear of the seat cowl up. The seat cowl is on a spring-loaded hinge, at the front. Total removal is not required. Simply pull this hinge back, pulling the cowl from the tank, then set it back down on the subframe.
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Step 2: Tank removal pt. 2.
First and foremost, prepare a place where you can put your tank down and work on it. You will need to put a towel down to set the tank on and protect the painted surface, as you will be working on the underside of the tank. Looking in the gap you have just created between the seat cowl and the fuel tank, you will see a rubber grommet, with an Allen head bolt in the middle. This is the only bolt that holds the fuel tank to the frame. Remove this bolt and grommet, and set it aside. (Don't worry about dropping the fuel tank, the airbox will prevent this from happening.)

Now, slide the tank back, tucking the bolt flange in the gap between the seat cowl and the cowl hinge. This will pull out the pin found in the front of the tank enough to disconnect it. Now, using the help of a friend (just makes this easier and safer), lift the tank up enough to gain access to the underside of the tank. There, you will see a couple of vacuum lines, two fuel lines, and a four pin wiring harness.
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Step 3: Disconnecting the harness and lines.
Applying just enough lift to the tab of the harness, to clear the retaining clip from the tang (too much can break the clip), pull the sending unit harness from the engine harness, separating the two. Now, disconnect the two vacuum lines by simply pulling them off the sending unit. The only thing to disconnect now are the fuel lines. Before you do, make note of which line goes to which connector. You will need to replace them in the same location. On the female (tank) side, you will see a metal clip that locks the fittings together. Simply push the clip in, and the fittings will unlock. Pull the male end (hose side) out of the female end, straight down. In a perfect world, only a drop or two of fuel will come out, however, my broken clip poured fuel out, therefore, it is a good idea to place a towel on the motorcycle before you disconnect these clips, to protect it.
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Your tank can now be removed from the motorcycle.

Step 4: Removing the old quick disconnects.
With the tank upside down, insert a 19mm open-ended wrench on the hex flange of the plastic quick disconnects, and turn them counter-clockwise. Once free, remove them by hand. If you were able to remove both fittings, skip "step 4.a."
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Step 4.a: Removing a broken fitting.
If your fitting is broken flush to the tank (the way that mine has), you will need to remove the threaded remains of the fitting from the sending unit.
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First, remove the insert from the fitting, if still attached, using needle-nosed pliers. Then, using a #6 screw extractor, set your drill to reverse, and insert it into the plastic remains. Apply moderate pressure to the drill, as you slowly run the drill in reverse (counter-clockwise). This will remove the threaded insert left behind in the sending unit, without damaging the sending unit, itself.
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Supply sources:

Any home store, plumbing department.
*Oetiker/PEX clamps
*Oetiker/PEX crimping tool
*Teflon tape


76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Make sure that ALL debris is removed from the outside bung. It might be necessary to plug the hole and sand any remaining material or corrosion.
Auto part

Now, remove the fuel pump sending unit (I will be doing an article on how to do this, at a later date), and look at the inside bottom plate. You will see a 4mm plug at one side. Remove this plug and copper washer.
Auto part Tire Vehicle brake Wheel Pipe

Check the channel to assure that no plastic or metal debris has fallen into this channel. Remove any visible debris with a pick tool, then wipe it out with a cotton swab.
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Lastly, blow the channel out with compressed air, and reinstall the plug and copper washer. Tighten securely. Reinstall the fuel pump assembly, using a new seal.

76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Step 5: Installing the new female fittings.
(Optional) I took advantage of the fact that I am swapping all of my fittings out, to stamp "A" and "B" on both the male and female fittings. This will make reinstallation "foolproof," as well as aiding any service down the road that requires tank removal. I wish somebody would anodized these fittings in different colors, but we can't get everything in life, I suppose, so this will have to do.
Screw Finger Fastener Hand Titanium

Material property Finger Hand Plumbing fixture Metal

Fastener Finger Screw Metal

Start by wrapping some Teflon tape around the threads of the new quick disconnects.
Auto part

The tape should run in the opposite direction of the threads... In other words, since you install the fittings clockwise, the tape should be wrapped counter-clockwise. Just one wrap should do the job, don't get crazy with the tape.

Now, installation is simply the reverse of removal. Repeat the process for the other fitting.
*Note: it is easier for me to get a wrench on the fitting, if I do the rearward connector first, as the rear fitting has little room to turn a wrench.
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Section 2: Male side (hose end) fitting replacement.

[Below, is a picture of the clamps and crimping tool that you will need, for a correct and secure installation.]

[Here is what the clamps look like. Make sure you get stainless steel clamps.]
Finger Fashion accessory Metal Silver

Step 1: Removal.
With the tank removed, carefully cut off the crimp-on hose clamps that are found on the hose ends of the fuel lines. Clip them off at the crimp, only.
Yellow Motor vehicle Tire Vehicle Automotive wheel system

There are specialty tools for this, however, it can be done with basic side cutting pliers or a flathead screwdriver. Remove and discard these clamps, DO NOT REUSE.
Pull the male quick disconnectors out of the hose, using a twisting motion. You will likely have to insert a small flathead screwdriver in between the hose and the fitting, to break the seal.
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When separating the two, ONLY HOLD THE HOSE AT THE FITTING, do not hold it by the middle of the line, as line damage may result.
Inspect the end of the hose for damage, such as cracks, pits, rot, or any other damage. If damage is found on the end of the hose, cut the damaged portion off cleanly with a hose cutter.

Step 2: Installation.
Install a new hose clamp on the fuel line a few inches from the end, then insert the new male fitting into the hose. Orient the fitting so that it is facing up, when the hose is at rest. Failure to do so will result in having to twist the hoses to connect it to the tank, which puts strain on the fittings, and could lead to hose collapse.
Auto part Fuel line Suspension Suspension part Hose

Slip the clamp up to the middle of the barb of the connector, then tighten it securely, making sure that the hose is pressed all the way against the flange of the fitting. Note: Assure that the crimp is located on the side or bottom of the fitting. If the crimp is located on the connector end, it may obstruct the male and female ends from connecting.
Yellow Auto part Vehicle Tool

Assure the PEX clamp fits securely on the barb of the fitting, and that the fitting has hose on both sides, all the way around. If the end of the hose does not slightly protrude from the clamp, all the way around, then the clamp is not fully secure, and a leak may result. Then, repeat the process on the other hose.
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*Note: In the first pictures, I showed two clamps per hose. I had later removed the lower clamps, as one fit securely enough, and the second did not fit all the way on the barb. If using two clamps, make sure that the crimps are on opposite sides of each other.


76 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Section 3: Reassembly.
The last thing to do is reinstall the tank on the bike. First, make sure that the clips on the female (tank side) fittings are open, by pressing the metal tab.

[Closed fitting.]
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[Open fitting.]
Hardware accessory

If not, damage to the male side o-rings may occur. Next, wipe down the airbox and velocity stacks, assuring they are clean, and free of debris.
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Also note that now is an opportune time to check your coolant level, while the tank is off.
Now, having a friend hold the tank over the bike, reach up and press the male quick disconnects into the female ends. The clips are designed to lock automatically, when properly seated. You should hear a click. When they are seated, give the fittings a slight tug (never by the hose!) to confirm a secure connection. Slip the vacuum hoses onto the nipples. Note there are three nipples on the sending unit. The one on the canister is the regulator, and is open. Reconnect the 4-pin wiring harness, making sure that the clip is located on the same side as the tang (don't worry, you really have to try to mess it up.)
Place the key in the ignition, turn it on, and switch the bike to "RUN." Confirm that you hear the fuel pump spinning for a couple of seconds (you should even feel it vibrating, toward the bottom and back of the tank.)
Check to see that there are no fuel leaks. If not, then reinstall the tank, in reverse of removal. Then, take the motorcycle for a test ride.

Hope this helps!

5 Posts
Step 5: Installing the new female fittings...

Start by wrapping some Teflon tape around the threads of the new quick disconnects.
View attachment 922578

The tape should run in the opposite direction of the threads... In other words, since you install the fittings clockwise, the tape should be wrapped counter-clockwise. Just one wrap should do the job, don't get crazy with the tape.

Now, installation is simply the reverse of removal. Repeat the process for the other fitting.
*Note: it is easier for me to get a wrench on the fitting, if I do the rearward connector first, as the rear fitting has little room to turn a wrench.
View attachment 922586
This is a really good tutorial dude. I just replaced mine on the 998. Note, that the male ends on the 998 line are heat shrinked at the factory and won't come off. I ended up making a new fuel line with 5/16" fuel injector hose. Reuse the "Y" valve at the airbox end and cover the lines with some heat shield sleeves to prevent any vapor locks.

For installing the female connectors, I used the liquid Permatex thread sealer with PTFE rather than teflon tape. And you can use a 19mm socket if you take off the clips. Push the clip beyond the pin (careful, the pin is spring loaded) and remove the little pin and spring. Torque to 9 nm. Then re-install the pin and clip. You may have to tighten a little past 9 nm to line up the slot so you can reinstall the pin and clip.

This is a project worth doing when you have a leak. It will save about $120 over a new fuel line and give better reliability. Gotham Cycles sells the replacement kit for about $80. It comes with everything you need except the fuel line and maybe a couple of hose clamps. They don't communicate order status via email or text or anything. I ordered and about a week later it just showed up in the mailbox. Also, I had to grind down the tip of one of the male connectors as it was binding and did not want to insert in the female housing. Do a test fit on your male/female connectors before installing everything on the bike. I think mine was just a fluke, but it's easier to do off the bike. They are the CPC OEM fittings, just in metal rather than plastic.

Good luck!
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