Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I didn't like the little charging pigtail that hangs by the exhaust, and if I stuffed it behind the cover it was hard to get to, so I ordered a Powerlet adapter to use with my Optimate charger. I hook it up and nothing, it isn't charging the battery. I didn't have my key so I press the black button, the screen comes on to enter the PIN but the screen is kind of flashing like it has a short. I disconnect the charger and it acts normal.

I was under the impression that the Powerlet outlets were always on, and I could charge the battery through them. Has anyone done this? I just want to make sure that nothing is wrong with mine or there isn't a short.


Also, any idea if we can wire them directly to the battery so I can charge through them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
407 Posts
The Powerlet outlets are switched through the ignition, so they are NOT always on and you can't charge through them. I saw a link (which I now can't find) that led me to hook the left-hand one directly to the battery with a 30A fuse. Now I can use it with my charger, and use my heated jacket liner with no concerns about tripping the CANBUS system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
I zip tied a charging connector to the bottom of the powerlet connector on the right side of the bike. Pretty easy to wire it straight to the battery from there. The cable has a built in fuse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,260 Posts
The Powerlet outlets are switched through the ignition, so they are NOT always on and you can't charge through them. I saw a link (which I now can't find) that led me to hook the left-hand one directly to the battery with a 30A fuse. Now I can use it with my charger, and use my heated jacket liner with no concerns about tripping the CANBUS system.
Why would you put a 30A fuse on a circuit rated for 10A? Good way to start an electrical fire.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Why would you put a 30A fuse on a circuit rated for 10A? Good way to start an electrical fire.
He said he wired the socket directly to the battery. The CAN BUS may be rated for 10A but a direct connection is rated as much as the gauge of wire you choose to use. I did the same thing on my MTS. I used heavy gauge wire rated for more than 30A, but I fused the socket for 30A.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,260 Posts
He said he wired the socket directly to the battery. The CAN BUS may be rated for 10A but a direct connection is rated as much as the gauge of wire you choose to use. I did the same thing on my MTS. I used heavy gauge wire rated for more than 30A, but I fused the socket for 30A.
You'd need 10-12AWG to support 30A, is that what you used? Even so, the bike only has about 27A of surplus power so it's of little value to to be so overrated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
805 Posts
I think the OP has used a powerlet plug into his sockets, instead of the pigtail to the battery... (hence the question about socktets always on).

The sockets are only connected when the ingition is ON .. and from memory I think there may be a diode in cct as well, which would prevent charging anyway.

To the OP... You would be better off, changing the pigtail out for a socket, and mounting that securly somwhere on the frame.

Cheers,
WIt C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
There seems to be some accurate but "patchy" advice to the OP. To clarify.

The Sockets fitted to the MTS1200 are MERIT sockets.
Powerlet is just a place that sells stuff like this and a brand rather than a definition of the plug type. A good shop I am sure but a less than helpful definition.

The sockets on the bike are only live when the bike is on (not engine running, just ECU on and dash lit).

I don't believe that they are controlled by the CANBUS system but messing with them could affect the CANBUS. CANBUS is after all just a 2 wire system for automotive electrical modules to talk to each other. They can be sensitive to small issues like resistance of bulbs and the like.

The main problem is that to charge the bike, the bike must be on - but it will turn itself off after 30 secs and disconnect the charging circuit and no charge. This is what I think the OP has an issue with.

The 2-pole wire around the right passenger peg is connected directly to the battery and is designed to charge the battery regardless of the bikes on/off status. It is called a bullet type socket and a few other names.


It is "low rent" and I have torn this out and replaced with a Merit socket wired up with military spec wiring. I found enough space under the right rear wheelarch and used a flap covered merit socket.


Plugged in.


While this works perfectly with a battery charger/tender. Fit any suitable fuse but my bike will charge no problems with a 10 Amp fuse as this is a low current power input to the electrical system. it will however, smoke the 10Amp fuse if I plug in my Touratech tyre pump. This is a small pump but draws some current and can pop un a tubeless tyre no problems and draws a lot of current. So, I used a 25Amp fuse. Waaaay less than the spec of the wiring and terminals used on the direct connection to the battery, so no chance of a fire - of course (listen to Turbo, he knows stuff).

Note that when inflating tyres using the bike for a 12V source I would keep the engine running or leave a tender plugged in for a few hours afterwards.

This is the charger I use if the bike is unused for more than a week or so (so almost never), but any good brand will do if you wire on a merit plug with the correct polarity.


So Scutchins, wire the charging "pigtail" to your socket and put in a suitable fuse. 10 to 25 Amp to match the wire used. I would guess the standard 2-core wire is better than 15 Amp but if concerned, upgrade it. Should cost less than $5. Remember that this plug will be live always. You could plug in lights for camping and leave them on all night - and not start the bike in the morning. The other 2 standard merit sockets are live only when the bike is on.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,217 Posts
Now THAT is a good description. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
You are welcome.

I probably should also state that the above is my understanding anfd may not be totally correct.
I also apologise for the dirt on the bike. I ride it more than clean it. :D:D

I also am a big fan of wiring products sold by Pegasus racing.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=WIRE2

Military specification and tough as nails. Hard to strip but worth every cent.

Way better than autoparts store melty insulation, copper stuff.

They have excellent accessory connectors also that are clip connect and waterproof.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=WEATHERPACK

Way over the top quality but worth it IMHO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,260 Posts
Great description Tim! fwiw, neither of the accessory sockets are connected to the canbus system, that's why those circuits can be modified without the bike throwing a fault.

the TT pump is RIDICULOUS! And I thought the CyclePump was over the top... :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Yep - that's what i did - optimate 3+ wire straight to battery, with lead sitting right behind right side powerlet socket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Why not just wire the charging wires directly on top of the two battery posts? I wired my battery charger that way and have the two wire plug stuffed along the right side of my body panels.
Same for me but it is the left side I place mine behind ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Why not just wire the charging wires directly on top of the two battery posts? I wired my battery charger that way and have the two wire plug stuffed along the right side of my body panels.
That's the setup I already have, and I don't like the wire hanging down. I usually stuff it up by the voltage regulator (I think that's what that is behind the right cover) but it fell down on a ride and started melting from exhaust heat. Luckily only the cover this time but next time the wire might melt which is why I want to do away with the wire altogether.

I am going to rewire the left merit (thanks for the correction!) plug to go straight to the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Tim Oz:

The two-wire polarized pair of connectors are actual called "SAE 12Vdc Hemaphroditic two-pin" connectors. The line-side (battery-side) connector has the "hot" conductor concealed (i.e, it's "female") to prevent shorts/grounds. AFAIK, they were the original standardized polarized DC modular connector pair in mass-production. I used them in the late '70's-early '80's for CB radio console mount quick-disconnects when I was a teen working as a bench tech/installer at a local CB radio/car stereo shop.

The ISO 4165 (aka, Hella, Merit, or Powerlet) sockets are very nice, and a superior and more sano solution to plug-and-cord connected DC-powered devices, but only my '11 Multi S has them. My three other bikes have SAE two-pin connectors, as do all four of my Battery Tender's. My old-style "non-microwire" Gerbings heated gear also has SAE plugs.

As a result, I installed a fused, two-wire SAE Battery Tender harness w/tethered connector weather cap directly to the batt terminals on the Multi, and I ty-wrapped (I know, brand name) it near the ISO4165 socket for charging and heated geat duty. I tuck it up under the body panel, so no one knows it's there.

Actually, H-D now ships all their bikes with a OEM SAE three-wire/three pin "High-Current" connector (my '11 FLHTK has one) that is backwards-compatible with the two pin. While I haven't seen neither charger or load that is so equipped, they claim it can accomodate 15A loads via the extra "hot" wire/pin.

My apologies, but as a degreed Electrical Engineer (BSEE), I am personally aware that one cannot spell GEEK without "E-E", LOL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
Hi KMH,
Thanks with the nomenclature. I will remember the "hermaphrodite" bit.

Just to clarify. I am not anal about the names and have no problem naming brands. I only mention the names I know of to help people find them at an electronics parts shop. Certainly in OZ, if you go to Jaycar or Radio Spares and ask for a "Powerlet socket" you will not find it. Ask for a Merit plug and covered socket you will be fine. It is listed on their web catalogues with that name. This is also what Narva call them and that brand of Automotive electric parts is very easy to get here. You are correct in that the ISO 4165 name is also used and makes them easier to find.

I know that the SAE 12Vdc Hemaphroditic two-pin plugs are often used for battery tenders but IMHO this is because they are cheap and nasty. The real reason is that this is probably what the Ducati branded battery tender is fitted with. :rolleyes:

There are also a few different kinds and sizes that are not compatible. I also think they are not designed for repeated, long term disconnection and reconnection and probably more importantly, are not protected from water and road grime and water. Fine for inside a CB radio but not hanging out in the breeze.

I would rather spend $7 and fit a proper protected socket with a cover direct to battery and not have anything tucked away to fall out, get tangled and melt on the hot bits. I have fitted matching sockets to the battery tender, air pump and camping LED light. I can choose the standard "on when bike is on" sockets or the "always on" new socket. Much neater, better long tern solution and fused. They take 16A and there are good quality marine grade versions in both panel and surface mount. They are also far better than cigarette lighter sockets that are crappy, fall out, carry little current and there are 2 standard sizes that are incompatible.

I think that merit sockets are now common in Asian cars and SUVs. I have had a few Subarus and they all have them fitted as standard for camping and a travel fridge.

Merit Type Plugs & Sockets - Products - Narva





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
No drama's, Mate!

No insult intended. I was merely clarifying the actual nomenclature of the product, versus the usage of "brand-names", such as Merit or Powerlet.

While I agree that the ISO/Merit connector is superior to the SAE, as it should be because it is decades newer in design, I've had no issues with them for long-term reliability.

Having spent two months down under in "fall" and "spring" in Melbourne, Vic., I can state with confidence and fair certainty that Oz weather is nowhere near as drastic as the good 'ole NE Corridor of the US (NYC-Metro area). Newer SAE plugs have tethered weather caps, but I've run uncovered, exposed plugs for more than a decade on my '99 H-D FLHRCI and over countless hours for over 100kmi in 0degF to 115degF temps, rain, sleet, snow, salt, sand, cinder, etc. and never had a failure or bad connection. I've also been electrically overloading them for years, via usage of oversize fusees, with no issues (I know, BAD, bad power engineer, LOL!). Apparently they are somewhat self-cleaning.

As a former mechanic, and an MSF-certified RiderCoach for the last 8 seasons, I get to see a LOT of bikes with lots of usage in all conditions. I haven't seen a problem with an SAE connector pair yet.

Cheers,

Kevin
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top