[Shirobon]

So one of the previous owners of my S4R had installed LED turn signals, and it was done properly, with resistors and all. I decided to go back and install some turn signals with normal light bulbs and the turn signals behave abnormally. It flashes twice normally, then speeds up as if a bulb was blown.

I don't understand why this is happening because if it were LED turn signals, I'd understand. But they're just regular bulbs. I thought to myself that maybe the wattage wasn't strong enough on the bulbs (though they're standard 21W) and put on the resistors but to no avail. Same result. The funny part is, if I put the LED turn signals back on it, it works normally.

Did they tamper with the dash or wiring? Is there something I'm unaware of? This should have been a plug and play operation normally. To this point, no one can give me an answer, even after searching the internet. I just don't understand why my S4R's turn signals go fast with bulbs, but normally with LEDs. One additional note, if I put two normal bulbs and two LED turn signals, it works normally. If I put 4 normal bulb turn signals, it goes nuts. So it functions normally as long as there are two LED turn signals hooked on to it.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[RockAZ]

You could try a different turn signal relay. I'd rather see you go back to all LED,...

 

[Shirobon]

You could try a different turn signal relay. I'd rather see you go back to all LED,...

There's a relay on the S4R? I thought it was controlled by the dashboard?

And I despise the tiny LED indicators. To each their own, I guess.

 

[RockAZ]

I don't like the tiny aftermarket LED turnsignals either, but if you went back to the stock turnsignals replacing the bulbs with LED's is the way to go, imho. There is a large assortment available these days.

There should still be a relay of some sort separate from the ECU in the dash, but I don't know your bike's electricals at all so it's possible it is all in the black box. In any case, I have seen those symptoms you described cured by a different relay.

 

[Shirobon]

I don't like the tiny aftermarket LED turnsignals either, but if you went back to the stock turnsignals replacing the bulbs with LED's is the way to go, imho. There is a large assortment available these days.

There should still be a relay of some sort separate from the ECU in the dash, but I don't know your bike's electricals at all so it's possible it is all in the black box. In any case, I have seen those symptoms you described cured by a different relay.

I thought about that. I might have to dismantle the dash and see what they did to it. The wiring loom was wrapped in some sort of loose cloth tape. They probably messed with it.

 

[1198SP]

Did you remove the resistors that were installed to limit the current to the LED's before installing the standard bulbs? If not, that's a good place to start....

 

[Shirobon]

Did you remove the resistors that were installed to limit the current to the LED's before installing the standard bulbs?

Yes. I tried them with and without to see if it changed anything, but they still blink normally twice and then fast. It's as if the ECU was just trolling me.

 

[RockAZ]

An ECU reset? Someone else look at this thread, I think there should still be a flasher relay somewhere on the bike for the turnsignals.....

Reconsider finding satisfactory LED bulbs, so many kinds are available now at every color temp and size.

 

[1198SP]

Yes. I tried them with and without to see if it changed anything, but they still blink normally twice and then fast. It's as if the ECU was just trolling me.

Sounds to me like the turn signals are still wired in parallel....we're all of the turn signals changed to LED's or just two? What I mean is, did the previous owner install resistors for both the front and rear turn signals or just the rear, like for an integrated tail light?

 

[Shirobon]

An ECU reset? Someone else look at this thread, I think there should still be a flasher relay somewhere on the bike for the turnsignals.....

Reconsider finding satisfactory LED bulbs, so many kinds are available now at every color temp and size.

I'm running half LEDs, half bulbs right now, I guess it's this bike's fate xD

Sounds to me like the turn signals are still wired in parallel....we're all of the turn signals changed to LED's or just two? What I mean is, did the previous owner install resistors for both the front and rear turn signals or just the rear, like for an integrated tail light?

Interesting that you mention this, because the tail light integrated the turn signals. No resistor for the rear, the connections for turn signals weren't used. The resistors were only up front.
Should I add resistors at the rear just to see what it does...I haven't considered that. Though there are probably resistors on the pcb of the tail light. I'm using a regular OEM tail light now.

 

[1198SP]

I'm running half LEDs, half bulbs right now, I guess it's this bike's fate xD
Interesting that you mention this, because the tail light integrated the turn signals. No resistor for the rear, the connections for turn signals weren't used. The resistors were only up front.
Should I add resistors at the rear just to see what it does...I haven't considered that. Though there are probably resistors on the pcb of the tail light. I'm using a regular OEM tail light now.

No, you shouldn't have to add resistors. The integrated tail light has to pull the signals for the indicators from somewhere. Follow the wiring from the rear turns signals back and see if they installed a Flash Control Module somewhere. Probably just looks like a square or rectangular box (maybe 2" square) covered in heat shrink. It may even be near the fuse box (I don't know where the fuses are on an S4)

 

[Shirobon]

No, you shouldn't have to add resistors. The integrated tail light has to pull the signals for the indicators from somewhere. Follow the wiring from the rear turns signals back and see if they installed a Flash Control Module somewhere. Probably just looks like a square or rectangular box (maybe 2" square) covered in heat shrink. It may even be near the fuse box (I don't know where the fuses are on an S4)

That's a good idea, I'll check that out tomorrow, thanks!