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Discussion Starter #1
having a problem. when i put LED signals on the back of my hyper saturday I reset the ecu thus:

held up on the mode switch while turning on the key
scrolled to "set indic"
changed reading from "lamp" to "LED"
scroll to "MEM" (actually says NEN)
turn off key

every time I do this it goes back to "lamp" and when I use the turn signals either the dash indicator doesn't come on at all or it flashes wildly. any ideas?
 

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Yota,

I looked at the workshop manual for a little bit to see if I could find anything for you and I couldn't. It sounds like you are completing the process correctly. If it doesn't take I think maybe a telephone call to your Ducati wrench may be in order rather then bangin your head. It might be something he can tell you over the phone. Goodluck
 

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Yota:
Do you have the stock front indicators or did you change them?

I changed my front indicators to LED types while leaving the stock rear lamp indicators in place. When I set the computer to "LED", none of the indicators blink at all. When I set the computer to "lamp" the indicators blink, albeit at a fast rate.

I had assumed that because I didn't install any inline resistor on the new front LED indicators that the computer wasn't recognizing the left and right indicators resistive loads correctly.

If you still have the stock front indicators and have only installed the Ducati LED rear indicators, then it sure sounds like something is amiss. I suspect that the stock front LED indicators have some built-in resistance that provides the appropriate balance with the stock or Ducati LED rear indicators.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have motrax billet LED's both ends. I ran the motrax's on the front for months without having to reset. I just put them on the rear saturday and now have a little problem.


 

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I installed the DP billet LED turn signals in the rear of my HM, on the Rizoma rear fender eliminator bracket, and didn't have to do a thing. They came with the resistor inline, completely plug and play. They are incredibly bright!
 

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Stock front indicators are 3.3W
Bulbs will be about 3W

LED indicators are ~1W.

The problem is that Ducati have 'made' the fronts to appear like bulbs to the system hence the default setting is bulb.

you have 2 choices, replace the fronts with LEDs that draw about 1W of power and set the dash to LED,

Add resistors to the rear LED's to burn up the extra 2W in heat and fool the system into thinking there is a bulb at the back.

I have bulbs on the back and new LED's on the front, I added an 85ohm 5W resistor in parallel across the fronts and it worked a treat, I'd imagine you want something similar on the backs OR change the fronts too.

EDIT -- oops, just read again and notice that you've already done the fronts, you will need to check the load on those. when i tested the LED setting the lights would blink on for a fraction of a second and just randomly blink away.

NOW, if you put the LED's on the front and had to do nothing to keep the blink rate the same then i guess they are quite high power LED's (some come with resistance built in to mimic bulbs for motorbikes) then keep it on BULB on the ECU and it won't care, when set to bulb with LED's front and back what is the rateof the flash?

Ped
 

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I have the same problem and I am running stock lights up front and Motrax LEDs (different than yours) in the rear. Tried the programming thing several times and it always failed to get the flash rate normalized. I personally don't think the faster flash rate is a problem, but I too would like to slow it a bit. I know that Motrax makes a resistor kit for the blinkers which will slow the flash rate. It is a universal kit and splices inline.

Out!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I don't mind the flash rate but on left signal my dash light does not work and on right signal the dash light flashes wildly some times and not at all other times.
 

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One point I've noticed is, some led lights are polarity specific. Won't work until leads are reversed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
when I installed the rears I connected the wires both ways and they flashed fine either way, which surprised me. at the time I didn't think to check and see if the dash light was working. I emailed motrax in Britian and they responded in less than an hour:

"Dear Frank,

This is a very peculiar fault and in the strangest way too. Do I take it that the indicators are still working? What happens to your dash light if you put stocks back on the rear, does everything return to normal? If the answers to both are yes then I think the solution would be load resistors for the rear set.

Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.

Regards

Motrax"



jesus, not looking forward to undoing all the heat shrink and elec tape where I spliced into the stock push plugs to check the take offs.
 

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Yeah, I did the rears up nice with a custom tail kit with Motrax blinkers. A couple months later, I had to redo the whole wiring and shrink wrap again with a custom tail kit for my new Zards. Major PITA, but well worth it for the look.

I did not have any problems either time with the dash. Also, make sure you get the right to the right and left to the left. I missed that the first time, but I wasn't too far in yet.

Out!
 

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One point I've noticed is, some led lights are polarity specific. Won't work until leads are reversed.
ALL LEDs work only one way. They are Diodes and that's what a diode does- let's electricity pass through one way only. LEDs happen to Emit Light ;)

Some replacement bulb units don't require a specific polarity if they have an integrated circuit that allows the current to be reversed inside.
 

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This is SOOOO simple guys..

An LED light draws 1-2W
A Bulb draws (stock) somthing like 5W
The Front (stock) LED's are made to draw 5W and are pretending to be a bulb! Hence the dash is set to BULB.

IF you but LED's on the back you need to set dash to BULB and add resistors to LED's
IF you change the fronts to LED you need to set dash to BULB and add resistors to front LED's
IF you change BOTH to LED's you set the dash to LED and walk away.

it really is quite simple.. you just need to match the resistance and load of your new LED's what the dash is looking for.

On the inside of the stock LED fronts it says they are 12v 5W (or something) you need to match the load of these with resistors and put them in parallel with the new LED. if you don't understand that you should not be dicking with electrics.
 

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Do Australian bulbs really draw 5w and 1-2 for LEDs? Most American bulbs draw 21w and LEDs here draw up to 5w.

The problem for people seems to be that when they install LEDs they can't understand why setting the computer to "LED" is not sufficient.

What's soooo hard to understand about that?

These are "electronics" not "electrics" ;)
 

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OH really? Was this really the same shit I was asking? No, it was not. I hadn't taken delivery of my bike yet and after reading questions about certain batteries and how long HID lasted in the xx9s, I started wondering if the Italian bikes were using a battery with a different voltage. I had also read about several different electrical systems the bikes have used through the years.

I know quite a bit about LEDs and arrays and it took a lot of time to understand how to make them work correctly, how to figure out how to wire them in series or parallel depending on their voltage, mW draw, etc. and how to calculate the correct resistance. Not with your common 5mm LEDs either, this was using SuperFlux LEDs to create turn signals etc.

I was just telling the other guy WHY people are confused. His explanation was exactly what they needed but he was a little harsh about it. Noone had yet answered it correctly so it's not like they were just being stupid.

So did you have fun searching my posts to see how "stupid" I was? How about now you go search "how to go F%$^ yourself"???

Oh, and that would be "you're" not "your" [email protected]$$.
 

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Oh you really think I started learning about LEDs the day I signed up here and I'm too new to know anything eh? Let's see, it's the 9th day of February, if I signed up the last minute of the last day of January, you're still off by a huge amount. I signed up earlier than that in January.

So it only takes two months of being a member to become a MOD like you have and start telling people what they can or can't do after "3" days and whether or not they can hang out and post in certain sections?

If it takes two months to be an all-knowing mod like you, then I think "3" days is enough to try and be helpful with LED information thank you.

Your grammar and math could use a refresher course by the way. What exactly is "to much"? Is that similar to "too much" by chance?
 

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my bad

Suicide. i was wrong and rude, you were not out of line but i was for calling you out. i was too quick to judge, i have not been sleeping or able to work lately and this has made me a bit of a grump. i was not acting like myself. i apologize to you and the rest of the forum, please accept.
 

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Apology accepted for sure! No hard feelings. I understand. I tore into more people than necessary last week on another forum when they were criticizing the Ducati, calling them overpriced and garbage etc. I went right after this kid and called him out for owning a junk old supra and cheap pistols and crappy AR15s telling him he's just cheap and anything quality (like what I own) is always overpriced to someone with no tastes!

We all do it, don't worry about it. For the record, my nastiness to you was ONLY in response. I only get that way after I test the waters and feel I really can't get anywhere with someone through reason.

:)
 
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