[asn007]

Hello, I have a 2003 800SS. One of the front turn signals needed to be replaced, the size was a H21W. I ordered a pair of H21W LED's and replaced both front bulbs, it was plug & play; however, when I switch on the left or right signal, both lights start flashing! It's as though I turned on hazards. Even when I removed the LED's, the turn signal lights will flash like hazards from the rear.

I ordered traditional H21W bulbs but it'll take a few days before they come in and I was wondering if anyone know if the problem will go away after putting in the regular bulbs, or if I need to do something else to fix this problem (reset something, replace a fuse, etc).

Please help as I don't feel safe riding without my lights functioning correctly.

Thanks,

James

 

[BluSTi]

Just throwing ideas out there, but if the resistance from the LED's is a lot less than the incan's, the regulator (the thing that makes the clicking sound in a car) may be fooled into thinking there are less/no bulbs present.

On second thought, I think that might just make them flash faster...

 

[burgurboy]

It IS resistance related. I had the same problem with my 02 900ss. The system needs a resistor or a set of incandescent bulbs to get out of "hazard mode"

 

[asn007]

It IS resistance related. I had the same problem with my 02 900ss. The system needs a resistor or a set of incandescent bulbs to get out of "hazard mode"

So once I stick the regular bulbs in, will the problem go away on it's own? Wish I knew the LED's would cause a problem...those H21 bulbs are hard to find and super expensive for such a small bulb!

Thanks

 

[asn007]

Just throwing ideas out there, but if the resistance from the LED's is a lot less than the incan's, the regulator (the thing that makes the clicking sound in a car) may be fooled into thinking there are less/no bulbs present.

On second thought, I think that might just make them flash faster...

They were flashing faster when I installed them...I would've put up with them, but it's in hazard mode whenever I signal. Would probably confuse other cars on the road. Definitely don't want them to not know where I'm turning!

 

[FrozenInCND]

There are two ways to fix three ways too fix the problem.

1. Put the proper bulbs back in.
2. Get resistors, and then solder them in the wiring harness to increases the resistance back to what the original bulbs had.
3. If the bike has a flasher that can be replaced, get a electronic flasher and replace the original bimetallic flasher.

If you can do option 3 thats what I would do. I was looking into this on my 2007 SS800 but I only changed the front bulbs, so it sped up a little but is exceptible.

 

[asn007]

Thanks, I'm going with option 1 since I ordered them off ebay, couldn't find them in stores! I'm just hoping once I stick them back in, the signals will return to normal and I won't have to do anything else. Guess I'll know in a few days.

There are two ways to fix three ways too fix the problem.

1. Put the proper bulbs back in.
2. Get resistors, and then solder them in the wiring harness to increases the resistance back to what the original bulbs had.
3. If the bike has a flasher that can be replaced, get a electronic flasher and replace the original bimetallic flasher.

If you can do option 3 thats what I would do. I was looking into this on my 2007 SS800 but I only changed the front bulbs, so it sped up a little but is exceptible.

 

[Punch]

1. Put the proper bulbs back in.
2. Get resistors, and then solder them in the wiring harness to increases the resistance back to what the original bulbs had.
3. If the bike has a flasher that can be replaced, get a electronic flasher and replace the original bimetallic flasher.

If you can do option 3 thats what I would do. I was looking into this on my 2007 SS800 but I only changed the front bulbs, so it sped up a little but is exceptible.

I agree completely with FrozenInCND about options.

Your post after FrozenInCND's about returning to normal with normal bulbs will happen.

My opinion, FWIIW.

If you are keeping the stock turn signals, then stick with stock bulbs.

If you are switching to bling/fancy/mirror integrated turn signals with LEDs do option 2 or 3.

Option 2 - you need to add resistance to simulate a bulb being there on each side of the bike. In your 21 watt case and only one normal bulb swapped to LED on each side then you need to use a 10 Ohm, 10 Watt resistor on each side. See the attachment for more info.

Option 3 - I have not done this as I have not needed to. You can buy "electronic" flashers to replace the stock flashers. But that is only if the flasher is a separate unit not embedded in dash electronics or whatever. I.e. it is a discrete flasher unit.
The flash unit does not have to plug into where the stock unit does. It is just electricity so you can connect from the wiring harness socket pins to the terminals of your after market electronic flasher with wires.

Richard

 

[asn007]

I agree completely with FrozenInCND about options.

Your post after FrozenInCND's about returning to normal with normal bulbs will happen.

My opinion, FWIIW.

If you are keeping the stock turn signals, then stick with stock bulbs.

If you are switching to bling/fancy/mirror integrated turn signals with LEDs do option 2 or 3.

Option 2 - you need to add resistance to simulate a bulb being there on each side of the bike. In your 21 watt case and only one normal bulb swapped to LED on each side then you need to use a 10 Ohm, 10 Watt resistor on each side. See the attachment for more info.

Option 3 - I have not done this as I have not needed to. You can buy "electronic" flashers to replace the stock flashers. But that is only if the flasher is a separate unit not embedded in dash electronics or whatever. I.e. it is a discrete flasher unit.
The flash unit does not have to plug into where the stock unit does. It is just electricity so you can connect from the wiring harness socket pins to the terminals of your after market electronic flasher with wires.

Richard

Awesome! Thanks for the info, defintitely good know they'll be back to normal with the bulbs I ordered. I should have them tomorrow and bike will back in action for the ride to work on Friday.

Thanks!

 

[dendrophobe]

Would this ever result in one side just not working? I have a FLEDA on the rear, and just upgraded to Oberon bar end signals on the front. Left works fine However, when I put the switch to the right, the rear flashes fast and the front doesn't come on at all. I've switched the harness up front, so I know both lights work; it's just when the switch is to the right... And I tried connecting the stock tail, and it does the same thing....

Yeah, I realize this isn't the Sport Classic forum, but I'm hoping that electrics will be similar...

I agree completely with FrozenInCND about options.

Your post after FrozenInCND's about returning to normal with normal bulbs will happen.

My opinion, FWIIW.

If you are keeping the stock turn signals, then stick with stock bulbs.

If you are switching to bling/fancy/mirror integrated turn signals with LEDs do option 2 or 3.

Option 2 - you need to add resistance to simulate a bulb being there on each side of the bike. In your 21 watt case and only one normal bulb swapped to LED on each side then you need to use a 10 Ohm, 10 Watt resistor on each side. See the attachment for more info.

Option 3 - I have not done this as I have not needed to. You can buy "electronic" flashers to replace the stock flashers. But that is only if the flasher is a separate unit not embedded in dash electronics or whatever. I.e. it is a discrete flasher unit.
The flash unit does not have to plug into where the stock unit does. It is just electricity so you can connect from the wiring harness socket pins to the terminals of your after market electronic flasher with wires.

Richard

 

[Punch]

Weird things can happen with LEDs on conventional flasher units and highly related to resistance.

I have seen all on, whether left or right selected, some on etc.

From your tests, changing the wiring up front confirming both sides work OK, when the left is selected, sort of points to the right switch/connector being the problem. Especially as it happens with the stock rears as well.