[Mark Nelson]

I flashed my ECU with the TuneBoy Tune and Cruise file and did not install the Trim file for the MIVV system by mistake, so I know I need to do that. Now here comes my questions:

1. Is the Tune and Cruise flash like a "base" file for the ECU and the MIVV is a Trim file for "fine tuning" or is the MIVV file the only one I would need?

2. I keep hearing about other trim files you can load like one that maximizes MPG...anyone know where those can be found? Long rides around Texas, a MPG maximized trim could be of benefit.

I rode the moto around the 'hood after the TB T&C flash and it actually feels better at low RPM's. I wonder if the MIVV flash will be even better.

Thanks!
Mark

 

[Sco]

1. Is the Tune and Cruise flash like a "base" file for the ECU and the MIVV is a Trim file for "fine tuning"

Yes

 

[tyr]

You're able to fine tune it yourself by data logging and making adjustments to the trim file. You can do this with a laptop in a bag, or I believe Wayne has an iOS app that works for logging as well. There is an android app if you can ever get into the group to acquire it--I've had no luck with that. You can also bring it to someone who does dyno tuning. I actually picked up a used dynojet 200 before xmas to work on tuning over the winter without having to do it on the road.

 

[Mark Nelson]

Thanks for the replies. I loaded the Tune and Cruise and then the MIVV Trim file last night. I need to go ride it today to see how she runs.

Now I just need to understand how to adjust a trim for the optimum engine running. Too busy working right now to figure it out.

Thanks again!

 

[pcv57]

I see on the Tuneboy website that you need to buy the Wideband O2 sensor to do the data logging. Is it worth the extra $?

 

[jahjah]

I see on the Tuneboy website that you need to buy the Wideband O2 sensor to do the data logging. Is it worth the extra $?

There's no way you are going to get an A/F ratio reading without it. Since that is the core of data logging, kind of worthless without it IMO.

 

[tyr]

There's no way you are going to get an A/F ratio reading without it. Since that is the core of data logging, kind of worthless without it IMO.

Yes you need the o2 sensor as jahjah says to do any sort of fine tuning, otherwise you're just guessing with canned tunes and no data.

 

[Steve W.]

2013 MTS ST
Thinking about getting the TuneBoy package with tuning and cruise, mostly to get the cruise. I still have the stock exhaust. Will the "tuning" be advantageous with the stock exhaust?

2013 MTS ST
Thanks
Stevo

 

[AussieFarmboy]

2013 MTS ST
Thinking about getting the TuneBoy package with tuning and cruise, mostly to get the cruise. I still have the stock exhaust. Will the "tuning" be advantageous with the stock exhaust?

2013 MTS ST
Thanks
Stevo

I've loaded the cruise and tune package onto my stock 2014GT and it has made a noticeable difference at the lower rpm range with regards to surging, especially around town in lower gears. I haven't got around to fitting the nudge buttons. Although I ordered them I find I am not really missing the extra functionality.

 

[Gadgetech]

2nd Aussie

 

[amullo]

2. I keep hearing about other trim files you can load like one that maximizes MPG...anyone know where those can be found? Long rides around Texas, a MPG maximized trim could be of benefit.

Thanks!
Mark

This always cracks me up.
Think logically.
You need a certain amount of HP to go a certain speed. so what you need is the Engine to make that amount of hp in the most effective way possible. That, in gasoline engines, means 13.7 parts air to every part fuel. You get the maximal amount of energy from the fuel.

But that is in a lab. If your making the Engine produce the maximum amount of Power at any givven RPM, then your going to get the maximal MPG, since the Engine is optimized to... wait for it... produce the needed hp for retaining speed with the minimal throttle opening.

Take the Ducati D16RR.
That bike made 182 hp on the dyno and drunk fuel at around 30mpg from the factory.
After tuning, the same bike did 189hp on the dyno, had 8% more torque across the entire revrange and did 40 MPG.

So optimize the bikes engine so it runs as good as it can run and your going to have both max hp and max mpg.

Some people will make a "lean" map that reduces the fuel injected at a certain RPM and throttle openeing, the problem then is that your going to open the throttle more to retain the amount of hp the Engine is using, so thats moot.
BUT BUT, says the maker.. The bike is running fat and surging! - Yes, but after being optimized (see above) it shouldnt. It should use the amount of fuel needed to produce the maximim amount of hp at that Engine speed. closing the throttle reduces air and, correspondingly, fuel used.


I´ve found that my MTS got about 3% more milage after a proper remap then it did from the factory. Then I opened up the airbox and got even more.. around 8%.

 

[AussieFarmboy]

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the low RPM surging somewhat corrected by making the a/f mixture richer rather than leaner?

 

[pcv57]

This always cracks me up.
Think logically.
You need a certain amount of HP to go a certain speed. so what you need is the Engine to make that amount of hp in the most effective way possible. That, in gasoline engines, means 13.7 parts air to every part fuel. You get the maximal amount of energy from the fuel.

But that is in a lab. If your making the Engine produce the maximum amount of Power at any givven RPM, then your going to get the maximal MPG, since the Engine is optimized to... wait for it... produce the needed hp for retaining speed with the minimal throttle opening.

Take the Ducati D16RR.
That bike made 182 hp on the dyno and drunk fuel at around 30mpg from the factory.
After tuning, the same bike did 189hp on the dyno, had 8% more torque across the entire revrange and did 40 MPG.

So optimize the bikes engine so it runs as good as it can run and your going to have both max hp and max mpg.

Some people will make a "lean" map that reduces the fuel injected at a certain RPM and throttle openeing, the problem then is that your going to open the throttle more to retain the amount of hp the Engine is using, so thats moot.
BUT BUT, says the maker.. The bike is running fat and surging! - Yes, but after being optimized (see above) it shouldnt. It should use the amount of fuel needed to produce the maximim amount of hp at that Engine speed. closing the throttle reduces air and, correspondingly, fuel used.

I´ve found that my MTS got about 3% more milage after a proper remap then it did from the factory. Then I opened up the airbox and got even more.. around 8%.

So what would be the purpose of storing multiple maps in the ecu?

 

[amullo]

So what would be the purpose of storing multiple maps in the ecu?

I have no fucking clue. Having diffrent ride modes, Yes.. But diffrent maps?
No clue.
Cant see a point.

Unless you change the hardware often..

 

[Qumm]

I have no fucking clue. Having diffrent ride modes, Yes.. But diffrent maps?
No clue.
Cant see a point.

Unless you change the hardware often..

If you can't create a specific trim file for your bike i.e. you can't tune it on the road or preferably on a dyno then the only way to select the best trim file is to test ride the bike with the trim files already available. It is way more convinient to simply swithch back and forth between the 3 different trim files during the ride and make the comparison than take a laptop with you and load new trim files when you would like to test them.
Also, if you change your selected trim file based on your feeling then it is easier to confirm if there is a real improvement if you can compare the original and the new trim during one single ride, same circumstances, probably same place, etc. by switching back and forth between them.

OK, it is not a necessity but makes one's life easier.

 

[amullo]

If you can't create a specific trim file for your bike i.e. you can't tune it on the road or preferably on a dyno then the only way to select the best trim file is to test ride the bike with the trim files already available. It is way more convinient to simply swithch back and forth between the 3 different trim files during the ride and make the comparison than take a laptop with you and load new trim files when you would like to test them.
Also, if you change your selected trim file based on your feeling then it is easier to confirm if there is a real improvement if you can compare the original and the new trim during one single ride, same circumstances, probably same place, etc. by switching back and forth between them.

OK, it is not a necessity but makes one's life easier.

Changing maps and trusting your "buttdyno" isnt really going to get you all the way..
For surging issues, yes.. You might save some time.. but on a dyno with constant load, your going to notice surging just as well.

 

[Sco]

If you can't create a specific trim file for your bike i.e. you can't tune it on the road or preferably on a dyno then the only way to select the best trim file is to test ride the bike with the trim files already available. It is way more convinient to simply swithch back and forth between the 3 different trim files during the ride and make the comparison than take a laptop with you and load new trim files when you would like to test them.
Also, if you change your selected trim file based on your feeling then it is easier to confirm if there is a real improvement if you can compare the original and the new trim during one single ride, same circumstances, probably same place, etc. by switching back and forth between them.

OK, it is not a necessity but makes one's life easier.

Exactly , Trim files will never be as good as a dyno tune for that specific bike , however some people don't have access to a dyno or a good programmer so the trim file is a viable option and multiple trim files let you easily pick which one might sound and run better.

 

[Mark Nelson]

Wow...this is awesome! Been working on the bike and watching American football and not reading the forum and now I see all these replies.

So..3rd on loading the Tune and Cruise map and the MIVV trim file. It's really like a different engine. My butt dyno believes it's also faster to go with the smoother. Low RPM's is really noticeable and a moderate acceleration run gets me to 100 mph in no time.

I believe I am good to go as is since I don't have access to a dyno and tuner. I am happy!

 

[Sco]

I also use the Mivv trim file , works well for me also .