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Hi all,

I am posting my ongoing communications with Tuneboy below.

In a nutshell, I have a 2014 MS1200s, with tunes, and added the quickshifter last year.

Rode all last season with no issues. put my bike away in november, took it out in january 2018, quickshifter not working.

It seemed to come on/off with engine cutting out as it came on, but mostly, it just stayed off.

I checked connections, rerouted, etc. Still, nothing.

At this point, I'm thinking of just removing the QS, taking the costs on the chin, and moving on. But hoping there is a better choice. Tuneboy has been slow to respond, hoping they have some other suggestions than already given.

Any of you ever experienced this? Or have any ideas what is going on?

See my e-mail thread below, it is a bit long::

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Some help perhaps

First off I have a 13 MTS with tuneboy Tunes, Cruise (with nudge buttons) and QS and mine works flawlessly

Secondly, I'm an electronics engineer (retired)

On the down side, I am half a world away.

From the description it appears to be a hardware fault and since you have already checked the easy stuff like wiring and connectors it leaves just on thing, the strain gauge, (the little sliver thing added in the gear linkage with wires coming out of it that plugs into ware the lambda sensor used to plug in) or the connecting cable.

tackle the easy one first, inspect the connecting cable closely, look for nicks or cuts that could have allowed water to get in a corrode the wires, all ok? next bit gets harder and depends on weather you can use a soldering iron and or a multi meter and have access to a reasonably good quantity multi meter. Update me on that and I will advise futher
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the assist.

I have a multimeter (not sure if it's high quality or what constitutes that).

I can't see a way to disassemble the unit though (I did check the wires and completely disconnected from the sensor).

So at this point, I'm left with an attached strain gauge with the wire coming out..

thanks again,

anthony.
 

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using the multimeter...

Sorry been busy,

first, lubricate the strain gauge, there are 2 eyelets that connect to the gear shift mechanism, one eyelet connects to the body of the strain gauge and the other to a rod that goes into the strain gauge.

Buy some good quality penetrating oil (something like this https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-120018-Fast-Acting-Penetrant/dp/B0122T3EJ0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1521469727&sr=8-14&keywords=penetrating+oil , don't use WD40, get something better)

Unbolt the strain gauge from gear linkage and position the the strain guage with the rod eyelet up, lubricate with penetrating oil and leave overnight, reassemble and test.

Fixed, great report results here and go have a beer, not fixed... next step...

ok with the bike off, at the plug end of the strain gauge, disconnected from the bike wiring loom and with your multi meter set to resistance {ohms} measurement mode take the following measurements and report, {If your meter is an "auto ranging" , the meter will display without further adjustment, if not, you may have to manually select the best range, generally the best range is when it displays a number to at least 2 decimal places for example- 7.32 K Ohms)

1. with no force on the gear change lever, measure the resistance

2. with force down on the gear change lever (like your down shifting), measure the resistance

3.with force up on the gear change lever (like your up shifting), measure the resistance

report your readings and I'll advise on the next step, If needed, I'll check the resistance readings on my bike and we can compare...

J
 

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Discussion Starter #5
clear steps for troubleshooting Tuneboy QS

Thanks for that man! These are the most clear and concise steps I have been given yet.

They seem simple enough, but I never thought I would have to remove the shifter linkage as it did not seem there was a way to lubricate internally (looks sealed to me)...

So I will be following your steps and using some good penetrating oil you suggested and letting it sit for a day..

I will let you know of results as soon as the weather cooperates here on the east coast! happy spring with a nor-easter..

thanks again,

ant.

Sorry been busy,

first, lubricate the strain gauge, there are 2 eyelets that connect to the gear shift mechanism, one eyelet connects to the body of the strain gauge and the other to a rod that goes into the strain gauge.

Buy some good quality penetrating oil (something like this https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-120018-Fast-Acting-Penetrant/dp/B0122T3EJ0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1521469727&sr=8-14&keywords=penetrating+oil , don't use WD40, get something better)

Unbolt the strain gauge from gear linkage and position the the strain guage with the rod eyelet up, lubricate with penetrating oil and leave overnight, reassemble and test.

Fixed, great report results here and go have a beer, not fixed... next step...

ok with the bike off, at the plug end of the strain gauge, disconnected from the bike wiring loom and with your multi meter set to resistance {ohms} measurement mode take the following measurements and report, {If your meter is an "auto ranging" , the meter will display without further adjustment, if not, you may have to manually select the best range, generally the best range is when it displays a number to at least 2 decimal places for example- 7.32 K Ohms)

1. with no force on the gear change lever, measure the resistance

2. with force down on the gear change lever (like your down shifting), measure the resistance

3.with force up on the gear change lever (like your up shifting), measure the resistance

report your readings and I'll advise on the next step, If needed, I'll check the resistance readings on my bike and we can compare...

J
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tuneboy QS Strain G

Regarding the measuring of the strain gauge:

"with the bike off, at the plug end of the strain gauge, disconnected from the bike wiring loom and with your multi meter set to resistance {ohms} measurement mode take the following measurements and report"

Forgive me for being ignorant, but where do I touch the red/black terminal leads of the multimeter to get the correct measurements?

thanks,

ant.
 

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multimeter measurements

The strain gauge plugs into the wiring loom on the right side of the bike (see picture), trace the cable from the strain gauge if needed. The plug is secured to a metal tab on the inside of the frame, slide it off and ease it out (see picture). It is a keywayed plug and on the loom side will probably have a label that says "HORZ" (see picture). unplug from the wiring loom. Look at the back of the plug from the strain gauge side, 2 wires go into the plug to 2 of the plug pins, these 2 pins are where you measure the resistance. If you don't get any sensible readings, reverse the polarity (red black leads) of the multimeter leads and repeat measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
screenshots of testing

Hi again,

Well I tried all different combinations of leads touching pins on that connector while I was pressing up/down.. no response on meter.

I did get numbers when I tested continuity though (see attached)..

I have also been in touch with Wayne at Tuneboy.

Just wanted to be sure before I send the shifter back to them to have it fully confirmed because it really is not fun having this thing connected at this time. There were times when it came online and it cut off the engine momentarily (way back when I thought it was working right)... not fun when you are leaned over..

So this is the last step before I package it up and send to them there to diagnose.

see the pictures, there are 3 pins coming in, I had the meter set to resistance, again, moving the leads around while pressing, and got no changes to meter.

thanks.

ant.


The strain gauge plugs into the wiring loom on the right side of the bike (see picture), trace the cable from the strain gauge if needed. The plug is secured to a metal tab on the inside of the frame, slide it off and ease it out (see picture). It is a keywayed plug and on the loom side will probably have a label that says "HORZ" (see picture). unplug from the wiring loom. Look at the back of the plug from the strain gauge side, 2 wires go into the plug to 2 of the plug pins, these 2 pins are where you measure the resistance. If you don't get any sensible readings, reverse the polarity (red black leads) of the multimeter leads and repeat measurements.
 

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reliability

Can't offer you any advice but it's good to see this thread, thanks, I was wondering about the reliability of these things myself.
 

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I’ve had mine installed for several years with zero issues.
 

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looks like the wrong plug

Ant,

Sorry again for the late reply, I'm currently in Thailand getting a Thai food fix. 0:)

I take it you did the penetrating oil procedure with no results??

from the pictures you posted it looks like the wrong plug, You have the plug which the nudge buttons for the cruise control connect, I suggest you re read the instructions posted earlier and look at the pictures. The correct plug is not under the seat, it is attached to the right hand side of the bike behind the frame.

Jerry


Hi again,

Well I tried all different combinations of leads touching pins on that connector while I was pressing up/down.. no response on meter.

I did get numbers when I tested continuity though (see attached)..

I have also been in touch with Wayne at Tuneboy.

Just wanted to be sure before I send the shifter back to them to have it fully confirmed because it really is not fun having this thing connected at this time. There were times when it came online and it cut off the engine momentarily (way back when I thought it was working right)... not fun when you are leaned over..

So this is the last step before I package it up and send to them there to diagnose.

see the pictures, there are 3 pins coming in, I had the meter set to resistance, again, moving the leads around while pressing, and got no changes to meter.

thanks.

ant.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
quickshifter sent back to tuneboy for inspection

Hi,

I tested the plug that was coming from the quickshifter, it was under the seat because that's how I routed it.

Either way, I sent Wayne at Tuneboy the info, he stated the following:

Resistance wont show anything.

I said it would output 2.5v

The best way to test is by looking at the A/F reading in TuneBoyTrim (A/F Target screen)

So basically, I just decided to send it back to them.

Wayne noted that he would "send it to Cordona for testing"..

If they find a problem, he suggested they would replace it.

So it was sent out today, should be there within a couple weeks and then I can update further.

thanks again for all the suggestions.

ant.

Ant,

Sorry again for the late reply, I'm currently in Thailand getting a Thai food fix. 0:)

I take it you did the penetrating oil procedure with no results??

from the pictures you posted it looks like the wrong plug, You have the plug which the nudge buttons for the cruise control connect, I suggest you re read the instructions posted earlier and look at the pictures. The correct plug is not under the seat, it is attached to the right hand side of the bike behind the frame.

Jerry
 

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If you don't have any luck, send me a PM. I have one for sale in Classifieds. I could never get it dialed in quite right for me. I'll sell it to you for a song seeing that it's just sitting in a tool box somewhere in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
thanks! but choosing a different path

If you don't have any luck, send me a PM. I have one for sale in Classifieds. I could never get it dialed in quite right for me. I'll sell it to you for a song seeing that it's just sitting in a tool box somewhere in my garage.
Hey thanks for the offer but will pass on it.

I want to start off with saying that I really like and respect what Tuneboy has done and continues to do.

I've been using Tuneboy tools since 2001 when I had my Aprilia Futura. Even though the software can be finicky at times, and documentation is light, the forums and tuneboy support will assist with getting things worked out.

However, in this case, I am pretty well disappointed... I bought the quickshifter and used it all last season. Mostly was a positive experience then over the winter storage, something happened. I took it out in December on an unusually warm day and it just wouldn't work.

While riding, it created a dangerous situation where the engine would just cut out and quickshifter would not work, then pop back on, etc.
Finally, it stopped working altogether.

So I posted in here my concerns as well as messaged/e-mailed tuneboy for assistance. None of it helped.

I finally paid to return it to them at my expense in the hopes that I could get an answer to whether it was the hardware, or is it something else that's the problem. It's been over a month now and no response.

~$300 spent to teach me a lesson. Quickshifter is not worth it. I continue to believe in Tuneboy software and tuning, but I'm soured on the quickshifter option.

Others that are interested, be cautious because it may be a costly decision.

thanks,
anthony.
 

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Quickshifter is not worth it

Your Cordoba quik shifter is the only one I have heard of that failed , there may be more but yours is the only one that I know of . To make a blanket statement that it is not worth it is your opinion . Everyone I know who has purchased one is happy with it .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
my opinion

Your Cordoba quik shifter is the only one I have heard of that failed , there may be more but yours is the only one that I know of . To make a blanket statement that it is not worth it is your opinion . Everyone I know who has purchased one is happy with it .
Ok, you quoted a single line from my post. This was all meant to inform. I'm not trying to make blanket statements that cover everyone, I just wanted others to know what happened in my situation. my opinion is implied. I'm glad others have been happy with theirs. it cost me $300 and lack of support for the product is what I was trying to show.

again, all at your own risk for this item. if I'm the only one I'm glad you are enjoying yours.

safe riding.
 

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I’ve test ridden several new bikes lately, all with factory quick shifters and I like gadgets and technology (see username) but this is one area I’m not sure (for me) is worth it to spend money. I’m on the fence about them as the only place I see using it is aggressive riding, otherwise shifting is just fine. Not saying I won’t get one for my Multi but this is the kind of thing I’d expect to deal with (because Murphy) and it’d piss me off more than any enjoyment I got out of it. Lol
 

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I had a Tuneboy (Cordona rebranded) quickshifter that began to behave exactly as the OP describes about six months after installation. To call this malfunction unnerving, really doesn't do it justice. It was as though an invisible gremlin had taken control of the rev limiter on the bike, and could activate it at any time, at any RPM, for about a quarter second. Just long enough to completely blow your line in a corner, try to throw you off the bike under acceleration, and make you think the bike was possessed by Satan.

Unlike antnate, it took me a good long time to pinpoint the QS as the problem. Some of the best Ducati shops in the United States looked at this bike, trying to figure out WTF was wrong with it. I spent hundreds of dollars just on fuel costs, trailering the bike to different experts. None of them could solve it. For reasons still unknown, heat was a factor on mine; the bike would perform normally in mild temperatures or while warming up. Once it reached operating temps, if the outside air was over about 85F, watch out. Unfortunately the heat 'clue' was a snipe hunt that lead many a good mechanic down the wrong road looking for answers.

Eventually it got bad enough that a pattern emerged: the engine was cutting out repeatedly around 4500RPM. Exactly like a rev limiter, except occasionally it didn't happen. Having at that point eliminated basically every other possibility, I unplugged the QS. Problem solved.

Anyway, turns out the QS unit itself was not the problem, the electrical wires were. When I had zip-tied the wires to the bike on installation, one of them was too tight and over time, it created an intermittent short inside the connection between the QS load-cell and the ECU. Specific vibration frequencies, like the one the engine hit at 4500RPM, caused the circuit to short, and made Mr. Gremlin dance. A few hours of testing to identify and replace the damaged section of wire, and I had my QS back again. Never gave me another minute of trouble.

TL:DR; It could really be the QS unit. Or not.

AFAIK, Cordona only supplies the strain gauge and load-cell, Tuneboy adds their own wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks for that response. I knew I wasn't crazy. my concern is, even after "fixing" it. I am now to a point where I don't trust it, and can't worry about the engine cutting off/on whenever it decides to start working again.

it is just too chancy at this point and I can't be assured it will cut out on me at the wrong time. I also do track days on the multi, and this would have been catastrophic in a high speed corner..

thanks again for the responses, they do show that there are some issues with this device..

I was only hoping for Tuneboy and whoever they have to manufacture (Cordoba?), can clearly identify the issues.

thanks again,

ant
 

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Discussion Starter #20
end of road

Hi all,

I have not received a response from Tuneboy since I sent them my presumably faulty quickshifter.

Too bad really, I checked in with them, they said they had it and would test it soon. but that was back in June.
I sent a couple other e-mails following up, no response...

I really just wanted to know if it was bad, and if so, what was it, so I could understand, and provide you all information that may help you.

So I'm basically at the end of my line with the quickshifter saga..

Here are my 2 cents:

if it's working for you, congrats. Enjoy.

If it is not, good luck getting it repaired.

if you are on the fence, wondering whether to buy it.. buyer beware, it will cost you around $300, and you may not get the support you expected.

Also, this is a safety issue, when the unit is off and on, it will impact your riding, and confidence in your bike's response. not a good thing.

Thanks all,

ant.
 
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