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Discussion Starter #1
Just got the bike back from the shop after a full 18K service.

After riding for an hour, I'm having trouble getting it out of Neutral and into first at a light. (embarassing when traffic is behind you). Sometimes getting into N as well, but not nearly as much.

The gear lever will move without resistance, but the bike won't "pop" or "thunk" into gear like it used to. If I mash HARD on the lever, it will go in.

Also experiencing more false neutrals 2-3 or 5-6.

Does it just require another clutch bleed?
Clutch feels super tight, but releases/takes up at the very end of travel.

Please let me know what you think.
 

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from Chris Kelly's old 2V site

Check your clutch throwout bearing every 5,000 miles or 6 months. Replacement Clutch Throwout Bearing It's best to remove the pressure plate (and the 6 screws and springs holding it on) and FEEL the bearing for smooth operation. While you're there, clean up the end of the pushrod and the cup that it rests in. Neglecting to do this can lead to damage to your clutch slave cylinder and cost you over $200. While you're in there, blow out the clutch with compressed air to get all the dust out. I retorque my clutch screws to 96 in-lbs, or 8 ft-lbs. This lesson was recently relearned... Zina's `95 CR with 26k miles had the seal at the clutch end of the push rod fail. The needle bearings inside failed and machined grooves in the pushrod itself. That's about $100 for parts, thanks. So when checking the throwout bearing, also clean out all of the clutch dust in that area.

more info: http://www.ducatitech.com/2v/index.html
 

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from Chris Kelly's old 2V site

Check your clutch throwout bearing every 5,000 miles or 6 months. Replacement Clutch Throwout Bearing It's best to remove the pressure plate (and the 6 screws and springs holding it on) and FEEL the bearing for smooth operation. While you're there, clean up the end of the pushrod and the cup that it rests in. Neglecting to do this can lead to damage to your clutch slave cylinder and cost you over $200. While you're in there, blow out the clutch with compressed air to get all the dust out. I retorque my clutch screws to 96 in-lbs, or 8 ft-lbs. This lesson was recently relearned... Zina's `95 CR with 26k miles had the seal at the clutch end of the push rod fail. The needle bearings inside failed and machined grooves in the pushrod itself. That's about $100 for parts, thanks. So when checking the throwout bearing, also clean out all of the clutch dust in that area.

more info: 2V Home

Good advice. Chris definitely knows his stuff.
 

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After riding for an hour, I'm having trouble getting it out of Neutral and into first at a light. (embarassing when traffic is behind you). Sometimes getting into N as well, but not nearly as much.

The gear lever will move without resistance, but the bike won't "pop" or "thunk" into gear like it used to. If I mash HARD on the lever, it will go in.
Sounds to me like the clutch needs adjustment as the pushrod is just not going far enough to disengage the transmission. If the transmission were turning, it'd be tough to drop it into gear. Pushing HARD on the gear shifter forces the gears to mesh as they line up. Put the rear on the stand, start the bike and put it in first and keep the clutch held in. Does the rear wheel spin? Use the brake to stop it. When you release the brake does it immediately start spinning again?
 

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Along with checking the linkage for looseness, also check that the fitting on the shaft is in proper location so that it rotates the shaft the correct amount.
 

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Maybe

Hopefully the clutch rod is in the proper direction, you can get it in wrong end for end and it will rub the seal and bind, plus clutch plate stack and max thickness of the pack has to be correct.
 

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Did the dealer screw with it ? Part of the service ? If not, I'd bleed it. A slave starting to go out can act like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Not a dealer, just a good shop. My guy told me clutch may simply need adjusting. Just had all fluids bled.
He's super busy and I'll be out of town, so this may take time to resolve.
Hope we do cuz ECM is looking to be a solid 3000 miles this year
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The solution that seems to work best is to pull the clutch in only Half-Way.

I'm able to snick it or thunk it into first gear and into neutral almost everytime that way.

Mechanic said its cuz the clutch works Too well.....

While underway I have no issues. Just the first/neutral interaction when coming to a stop or at a stop.
 

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Yea, that's it. It works TOO well.
 
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