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06' ST3
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441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so I started to re-install the headers on my ST3 yesterday after having them ceramic coated and got the top header in place OK. Bolted it down fine (although access to the mounting bolts on the right side is very tricky). Started to install the lower header (longer pipe) ...got the 2 pipes connected but now the pipe does not align with the front mount bolts. There's no way it's going to work. Put it aside yesterday and and picked it back up today.

So I removed the lower pipe from the other pipe and mounted it in place on the mount bolts and as I look at where the 2 pipes connect together, it's off by a good 1 inch (that is, the location where they fit together is a 1 inch difference). I'm scratching my head here on this ...these should align perfectly. So I then loosened the top header mount nuts to get some slack/wiggle room in the top header pipe. Did the same with the bottom header ...loosened the nuts enough to just hold the lower pipe in place. With the wiggle room I have on both pipes, I'm still struggling to get both pipes to align so I can fit them together. They're still off by a good half an inch. I'm pulling the top pipe and pushing the lower pipe to fit them together and it's just not working.

Is there a trick to this that I just don't know about? I'm frustrated as all hell right now.
Thanks!
 

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06' ST3
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441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not sure ...I surely hope not! :mad: They didn't appear to be altered or warped when I got them back from the coaters.

Here are some photos of the situation. I can get the pipes to overlap each other by about half their diameter by pushing/pulling but that's about all I can go without some tools to push and pull each pipe. I definitely need an extra set of hands to get this to fit (and I don't think the wife or my 5 y/o son would be of much help). I just don't want to put too much pressure on the mount bolts. I'm shit up a creek if those break off while I'm pushing and pulling the pipes to fit properly. These came off way easier than this!
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,918 Posts
I've removed my horiz header a couple times. You should be able to remove and replace it without bothering the vert header or center stand. Something is up there, IMO.

Have a good one.
 

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Life is too short to worry !
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2,642 Posts
I just had my manifolds CC'd in Silver , very nice....
I think the ST3 layout should not be too different to the 4s so my advise is to mount the vertical maniflod on the studs first and fit the nuts loose.
Slide the horizontal manifold along and onto the vertical manifold whilst ensuring it slips onto the studs at the same time then fit the front nuts loosely.
Jiggle the two so that they are properly connected and then tighten the nuts alternately so that they maintain alignment.
It worked for me so hope it does the same for you.
 

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06' ST3
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441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@ stryder ...initially, I bolted the vertical header in place tightly and tried to fit the horizontal header from there. No go ...so I then loosened the nuts on the vertical header to give some wiggle room, which it did. Even with both headers loosely mounted, the spot where both pipes connect is off a good half an inch. I left it as is yesterday and will pick it back up sometime this week. All I know is this should fit way easier.

Question ...I think I might remove the lower radiator to give better clearance for me to wiggle the horizontal pipe. Can I safely remove this w/o fluid rushing out? The one I'm referring to is beneath the larger radiator and is attached by 2 braided lines. It looks to be an oil cooler?? This thing is in my way and I'm trying to avoid scratching the ceramic finish on the header.


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
 

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06' ST3
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441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@ gearbox ...I think your method may be my best bet at getting this to work. I'll try this order first at my next attempt. Thanks for the feedback! Thanks everyone for your responses. I'll chime back in when I can get this sorted out.


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,918 Posts
That's the oil cooler. Yes, you can disconnect it from the mount without unhooking the lines. I bungee it back a bit when I am checking the valves.

It can also be unhooked without draining the oil. The problem is that the o-rings are a PITA to find, but can be ordered online.

Have a good one.
 

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Premium Member
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1,867 Posts
Could they have left a glob of material on the mating surface of the header pipe where it connects to the exhaust port? I've seen some come back with enough material to cause similar problems as yours. Had to grind it off to get it close enough to make it work.
As everyone has said, the trick is to do it as loose as possible then snug up after it's all fitted together.
 

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06' ST3
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441 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's the oil cooler. Yes, you can disconnect it from the mount without unhooking the lines. I bungee it back a bit when I am checking the valves.

It can also be unhooked without draining the oil. The problem is that the o-rings are a PITA to find, but can be ordered online.

Have a good one.
Thanks Tony. When I removed the horizontal header, I did disconnect the oil cooler from it's left and right mounts and just let it hang from the 2 braided lines but it's still sort of in the way. I'll do what you suggested and bungee tie it so that it pulls forward a little bit more. I won't remove the braided lines if I'll need to replace the O rings, though. I'm done buying parts for this bike this year ...I've spent way too much already in the things I'm doing.


JDuke,
I didn't see any globbed coating on either of the pipes. It's applied pretty thinly and it looks like it has at least a few coats but it's thin and flaky, not thick and glob-like. Both pipes looked real smooth when I got them back so I don't think any residual coating is interfering with their fitament back to the engine. The coaters must have dipped them in acid b/c the insides of the pipes looked brand new but when I dropped them off, there was a thick carbon build-up inside them.
 

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Mr Leakered
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8,918 Posts
The o-rings are not too expensive, but they are not the standard 1/8in thick ones. More like 0.036in thick. Folks, including me, have found them torn from the factory. Yours may not be. If they are not torn, then they are reuseable.

Have a good one.
 
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