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Has anyone used TOP floating rotor buttons on their bike? I just converted my 1098 today but won't be able to test it out until my next track day May 21st.
 

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Yeah. They work fine but drilling/grinding out the old stainless buttons can be a chore. Start carefully with a bench or angle grinder without nicking the carrier. Then go to a drill press with a clamp, cutting fluid, and a couple extra bits in reserve. When you get close, use a punch and hammer to finish off the old buttons.
 

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Yeah. They work fine but drilling/grinding out the old stainless buttons can be a chore. Start carefully with a bench or angle grinder without nicking the carrier. Then go to a drill press with a clamp, cutting fluid, and a couple extra bits in reserve. When you get close, use a punch and hammer to finish off the old buttons.
You're making it way more work than it has to be. I used a hand drill and countersink bit for metal dipped in ATF periodically, took about 15 mins. per rotor.


I've done 2 sets, 1 for the street, and 1 for track wheels. The brakes work flawlessly in both situations. Enjoy the fact your front wheel now doesn't bind as much, mine spins for days!
 

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You're making it way more work than it has to be. I used a hand drill and countersink bit for metal dipped in ATF periodically, took about 15 mins. per rotor.


I've done 2 sets, 1 for the street, and 1 for track wheels. The brakes work flawlessly in both situations. Enjoy the fact your front wheel now doesn't bind as much, mine spins for days!
What is a countersink bit?
 

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That's why I love this site!
Seems like every mod I do, someone does it before and asks the relevant questions just in time.
I bought my TPO buttons last week and hope to be installing this weekend. Thanks for the tips lads!
 

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I did this last night on my effed up rotors that I am rehabbing. No drilling necessary if you have a high speed die grinder and a cutting wheel. Line your cut up with the seam between rotor and carrier and very carefully cut the washer beneath the rivet head in half. I used a screwdriver to punch the rivet through once the cut was made. Both discs took me 17 minutes start to finish .

 

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Got them on all my Ducs--here's a pic with the rotor apart-
Nice whirrring noise from the brakes--no more warped rotors.
Enjoy the track---I was at NHIS Monday and had fun. Check the vid on my blog.
 

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Thinking of doing this mod to my 999S this winter, just one question to do with the "snap ring / clip" that holds each button. Could or would the snap ring loose it's spring temper after all the heating cooling cycles it goes thru??
 

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For those interested, I wrote to TPO with the question about the "snap-rings" and here is their answer;(I have nothing to do with the company business-wise, just thinking of buying something)
"This is something that we researched when the buttons were first designed several years ago. We have tested many sets of rotors both on the bike and also on a stationary brake dyno and we have seen no problems with the clips losing their temper--the buttons do get hot but not hot enough to affect the temper. In fact, the aluminum center of the brake disc would fail well before the rotor clips would lose their temper as aluminum loses its strength at a lower temperature than the clips would lose their temper. Also just to make sure we supply aviation-grade extra-heavy-duty snaprings. We have been producing these buttons since 2003 and we have yet to have anyone report a problem with the clips failing."
 

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Thinking of doing this mod to my 999S this winter, just one question to do with the "snap ring / clip" that holds each button. Could or would the snap ring loose it's spring temper after all the heating cooling cycles it goes thru??
I can comment on the buttons. I have used two sets of STM buttons and one set of the TPO buttons on three different sets of rotors over the years. There is really nothing to report. They work, that's it. Other than appearance, there was no difference between the STM or TPO kits. I logged many miles on all three sets of the rotors I converted and never had a problem. The benefit to them is near zero brake drag, and if you're having a problem with brake judder that is not being caused by a warped rotor or crappy pads, this will fix it permanently.

They make noise and become sloppy over time. All of them do. Be sure you're willing to deal with that. Never gave the spring clips a second thought and never had a problem with them.

On both current bikes that had converted "snowflakes" I swapped them out for the 998 style "star" rotors that are not converted. With good pads, they work just as well and are lighter.
 

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I like to know if the TPO thin 0.5 mm filling rings are steel or aluminium. The ones on my floating Brembos are steel ones and started to rust after a few months. I have send the disc carriers away for anodizing so I can change the filling rings when I get the carriers back.
 

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I like to know if the TPO thin 0.5 mm filling rings are steel or aluminium. The ones on my floating Brembos are steel ones and started to rust after a few months. I have send the disc carriers away for anodizing so I can change the filling rings when I get the carriers back.
Aluminum would be an unsuitable material as these are spring washers meant to reduce noise. They're probably plated spring steel.
 

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Aluminum would be an unsuitable material as these are spring washers meant to reduce noise. They're probably plated spring steel.

They are steel, but they flat and do nothing to reduce the noise unless you stack them to shim up the gap. He does (did?) sell different thickness optional shims you could use. If you shim them up too tight you defeat the purpose of the floating buttons, however.
 
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