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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, just thought I'd try to start this thread since I'm kinda tearing down my bike a bit to get her up and running. There are a LOT of tips scattered about, and lots of threads I've read. But I wanted to try to do a little top 10 - if your tearing down, build back up like this for a smoother time - list. Things that probably worked ok 20 years ago, but times have moved on and we've learned a lot since then.

Things that would fall into the list of things TO do might be:
Aftermarket Ignition Coils
Better cables
NOT running pod filters
Shit canning emissions canisters
Etc...

Things I don't really consider falling into this list might be:
FCRs
Replace all electronics with Motogadgets
Carbon Wheels

I'm talking about starting the bike, having it idle smooth and run smooth! I'm not looking for the most power in the world, I just want a smooth running bike and want to make sure I don't miss something.
 

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- Replace stiff 30 year old rubber carb diaphragms with new ones

- replace all other rubber carb parts while you're at it

- also the intake manifold boots because they are probably crumbling away as well

- and set the float heights

- vacuum sync carbs
 

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gearing - 14/37, 15/39, 15/40

advance cams to 106 inlet centreline

linear fork springs around 0.90kg/mm (can cut the originals in some), 5 weight oil.

make sure the charging system is in good shape.

remove all the sources of excessive free play from the clutch.

basic maintenance.
 

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Update/upgrade your starter circuit and electrical system grounds to higher quality components. Clean all your grounds and verify metal/metal contact.

Replace your regulator/rectifier with a MOSFET type unit.

Check the health of your battery, keep it on a tender when not in use, consider replacing it if you don't know it's provenance.

Get fresh modern tires on your wheels and sintered/HH brake pads for your stainless rotors.

Replace the rubber brake and clutch lines with stainelss or kevlar.

Lubricate your tach/speedo cable and check the lube/grease in your speedo sender.

If you are doing gearing, update the chain to a modern O- or X- ring chain.

Whenever you are working on a component, do not leave it on the bike. Take it off and clean it to like-new; take that time to inspect it closely for the potential need to replace or repair it. Cleanliness makes it easy to spot potential issues, leaks, blow-by, etc in the future.

The ignition on these bikes is actually pretty solid. If you have a bright strong blue spark at the plug, assume it could be a fueling issue instead.
 

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Change all the hoses/tubing to reinforced type .
New spark plug wires and caps
Rebuild carbs with Factory Pro nickel emulsion tubes and titanium needles
Barnett clutch plates with extra plate quiet mod
14t front sprocket or 40-42 t rear- install case saver
Non auto kick stand - kick stand switch disabled
Bar end mirrors
Inspect wiring harness and replace suspect connections, clean all connections
Set sag- springs may be required
Bleed brakes and clutch- HH pads on rear
 

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How about a basic check of all that old wiring. Loosen, clean, and tighten all grounds. Inspect for cracked insulation, burned wiring, worn contact areas, broken connectors, improper routing, burned bulbs, etc. and fix everything you find. Check the battery, assess the charging circuit and move on to the regulator/rectifier and stator if you have any concerns.
 

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Smooth?
Easy balance the crankshaft
Get the bike properly jetted
Make sure the chain and sprockets are not worn or caked up with old chain lube/wax.
A well done tune does wonders to include carb sync,valves set properly, belts set properly, fresh resistor plugs, good gas (87 unless it is a built motor (high comps).
A clutch that is not full of high spots (leading to the dreaded clutch groan), better still a wet clutch. Well better if you prefer smooth over cool :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is great everyone, exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much.

Electrics, charging and ignition
Rubber

2 big ones, that while I have'r apart, I'll look into!

Thanks everyone!
 

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running smooth...

Do not let ethanol laced fuels sit in the carbs.
If you are not riding more than once every two weeks, drain the float bowls.
Bad things happen if you let gasoline sit inside the carbs.....

Fred
 
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