[pneumadeux]

Hey everyone,

If you have a carby 900SS with stock front suspension and have upgraded to an Ohlins DU235 rear, I have questions

OK, just one in particular:

After you reset your front and rear sag with that pretty gold bling installed, did you make any adjustments to the front fork position in the triple clamp?

After quite a bit of experimentation, I've moved mine back to exactly stock. I'm fortunate enough to have a 1995 Ducati Shop Manual.

I'm seriously thinking of buying one of the Ohlins to get the better quality, adustability, and most importantly for me, ride height.

It's all about the turn in...

If you have adjusted how much fork is showing above the clamp, I'd love to know how much, and how exactly did the first few rides feel?

 

[Broombah]

I'd not change the front initially as the DU235 is longer than stock anyway, as it's the same length as the SSie shock. I haven't altered mine and find it ok.

 

[pneumadeux]

I'd not change the front initially as the DU235 is longer than stock anyway, as it's the same length as the SSie shock. I haven't altered mine and find it ok.

Thanks for that, @Broombah

I have one of the DU235 spec sheets and it says "328 +12/10" for "Length" under "Set-Up Data."

If it comes set that way, it would be 2mm shorter than stock, as stock as 330.

Curious if you know what your length is set at?

(And great that you didn't feel the need to adjust the front. Fiddly bit, that.)

 

[Broombah]

Thanks for that, @Broombah

Curious if you know what your length is set at?

(And great that you didn't feel the need to adjust the front. Fiddly bit, that.)

Sure thing
So, I set mine to the stock carby shock length + 10mm and that was my starting point given to me by John Baines of Baines Racing years ago. I've not really felt the need to change it.

 

[pneumadeux]

Sure thing
So, I set mine to the stock carby shock length + 10mm and that was my starting point given to me by John Baines of Baines Racing years ago. I've not really felt the need to change it.

Great. So, 340mm, plug n go, and Bob's our proverbial uncle.

How much easier does she turn in?

 

[Broombah]

Great. So, 340mm, plug n go, and Bob's our proverbial uncle.

How much easier does she turn in?

Easier but she’s still no superbike.
I also dropped the bars down the forks by an inch, which puts them at the same height as the 888 bars.
That’s also helped to load up the front, but be careful if potential clashing on the instrument cluster if you’re running radial masters or the like.

 

[steveb64]

When I first bought my Ohlins kit (years ago), I just swapped out the rear shock initially, as I'd just redone all the fork oils, and wasn't keen to do them again. I was already running my front end with 21mm of fork (including cap) above the clamps, and didn't change the Ohlins at all from how it was delivered - and it all worked together really nicely. HOWEVER - that all changed after I changed the front springs, replacing the squashed out progressive springs with some single rate ones. The gain in front ride height was substantial, which really messed up the cornering, until I had added a significant amount of rear ride height.
One of the indicators I've used over the years is the amount of wear on the front tyre - if it's chewing out the sides (not the chicken strips - in between them and the centre) of the tyre badly, then the steering angle needs to be a bit steeper - either raise the rear, or lower the front. I had to raise the rear. Just went and looked - there's 13mm of exposed thread behind the ride height locknut. I'm not sure what the rear static or loaded sag is - IIRC, about 1cm each way. A little more on the front (just hard enough so that it doesn't botttom out on hard braking causing tyre chirps). If your roads are better (hard not to be), then you'll get away with softer settings.

Was it worth it? Hell yes!

Tyres can also make quite a big difference to turn in performance due to different construction methods, or tread or profile. I'm a cheapskate - so I'm running older tech Pirelli Diablos (not Rossos or Corsas). They're NZ$150-200 cheaper a set than the newer ones, and still stick well enough that lack of grip has never been a problem. The only thing I've found with them is that the front is sensitive to pressure - particularly over. 32-33 psi for 'normal' riding, maybe 34 if you're doing a big road trip loaded up - but at that, the front will be starting to feel a little vague. As opposed to a set of Metzler M7RR's, where at 34, the front still felt like it was half flat...

 

[SoCalDuc]

Put a DU235 on my 2002 750ie, and being the front is 100% non-adjustable, I have not touched, anything.

However, the rear used to hop, riding in the Malibu Canyons, with the stock pogo-stick. The pretty Yellow/Gold item, solved everything.

 

[FourRings]

The carby SS 900s have a lot of rake and trail. IMO and experience they respond well to lot's of rear ride height. I've installed a longer eyelet in the ohlins shock in order to get more length (and therefore ride height). Overall shock length is now 346mm. I also use 180/60 super corsa which has more circumference.

But, it's not as simple as that. You'll also need to think about front ride height. I'm currently at 680mm from the bottom of the top triple to center of the axel. The net result of front and rear ride height increases are: measured decreases in rake and trail (but still very long by today's standards), higher overall ride height and cg for better transitions, steeper swingarm angle, and a bunch of fun to ride.

 

[Pacman]

I’m looking for a DU235. Who’s got best prices in the US?