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I'm ashamed to say that my 900SS/FE has been off the road for four years now, a victim of gunked stock carbs and being the unfortunate bike that requires a three vehicle move to get it out of the garage. I sold my Multi 1200S six months ago and I've been riding my HP2 Sport and recently acquired old airhead R100RS since, but it's time to get the FE back on the road since I don't have another Ducati.

I decided if I was going to get it going again I needed to go big, so I ordered a 41mm Keihin kit from CA Cycleworks this week, and the plan is to install that, do a full service, new chain, and of course tires.

I promised myself I'd ride it more, and give it a priority position in the garage, but I can't see getting enough riding time (probably 600-800 miles a year) on it to wear out tires more often than every 2-3 years, so I want a sport tire that offers good grip but won't get hard in a couple of years if I don't go through them, which rules out a lot of tires, in my experience.

Any suggestions?

I was also planning on replacing the floppy stock mirrors with some bar-ends, and was thinking about black Napoleon's for a more vintage look, but I'm open to others. I've seen some CRG's that looked good too.

Anything else you think I might want to address after long storage? The battery is good, it has been on a tender, and the bike still starts right up after a few tries.
 

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Can't speak for how long they last, but I put on Dunlop q3's at the beginning of last season and love them.
 

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Tires lasting in a Texas garage? Nope, not going to get three years out of them just sitting there, imho . Your experience is right, I don't know of any tires that would last on a performance bike.

Bought the Dunlop Q3's a few weeks ago and could not be happier. What came on the bike was low mileage (maybe 100 when I got it) but date coded as two year old Michelin Road Sports tires which were getting pretty hard, I think they were new old stock because the bike had been stored in an air conditioned warehouse in a wood crate for 15 years and they didn't make those tires back then. But when those tires were dismounted I wiped them down with some tire goo and wrapped them tightly in plastic wrap, who knows, I might remount them for a highway only trip next summer.

BTW, I also ordered the CA Cycleworks 41 Keihin kit last week and look forward to putting them on my 1991. I guess I have done everything you are considering to do to yours just in the last few months and more: mine was in storage for a long time. Feel free to PM me, I have learned a lot from this forum, saved a lot of bookmarks, and I feel these carbs are only solving the last problem remaining - carb icing, everything else is stable. And I put a lot of miles, 3,300, in five months to get it there.
 

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Michelin Pilots have been good to me. Also either CRG or Napoleon depending on your sense of aesthetics. A head's up....if you use CRGs with saddle bags you will lose your rearward view. I use one CRG and one Napoleon on my SS1000DS and that works for me.
 

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Michelin pilot powers if you have bumpy roads.
Dunlop Q3 if you do not .
Really they are both fine so put on what ever you find a good deal on and enjoy them.

Be sure to change the timing belts if the bike has been setting with used belts. Belts are rubber just like the tires and if your tires are important to you think what happens when you lose a belt.
 

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I've been running Pirelli Diablos for years, and really liking them - good grip in wet or dry - but limited life - so when I saw some reviews on the new Metzler M7RR's I thought I'd try them - and really like them so far. Good grip - as good as the Diablo's - even riding in NZ winter (very wet) conditions they never slipped, and our roads are pretty rubbish. I've not yet found limits for fast road riding, and at 3500 kms, they still have plenty of wear left, while the Diablos would have had "about one more good ride" left in them. Guys in the UK have been reporting getting good mileage.



What ducvet says about the belts - change all the tensioner and follower rollers/bearings too.




I got 2 1/2 kms on a fresh tank of gas today - and the bike dropped a cylinder. With a little bit of testing - found that the belt had snapped due to the tensioner roller bearing seizing. :(

Belts had about 19,000 kms on them - and I'm pretty sure I replaced the rollers when I did the belts then.
 

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Bugger, which ones seized? The roller or the tensioners? I am doing my ST2 ones at the moment?

Craig
 

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The one on the tensioner. Seized solid. I don't know what damage has been done to the valves yet...
 

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Sorry, the twin bearings or the single wide one, I have the twin ones on order but think I should replace all of them?

Craig
 

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Do you replace the entire follower and tensioner, or can the bearings be sourced separately. Do you have the bearing specs?
 

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On the tensioner you can change the two bearings. I am not at the shop but a common size bearing, just don't buy a cheap one as there is no money saved.


Belt bearings are one of those checks that should be made once a year on a SS, they are so easy to inspect there is no reason not to do so. Over tensioned belts will destroy a bearing in as little as 500 miles. They do wear out with age and use so pull those covers once in a while and spin the bearings to make sure they turn smoothly. If you see a shiny timing belt it is often letting you know the bearing is not turning.


steveb64
You just played the lottery so put the piston low in the cylinder and see if you can easily turn the camshaft 360. You should be able to feel spring pressure but there should be no binding. If you look in through the spark plug hole look for damage to either valve or piston. If the vlves are good you probably are fine I have seen this happen.

Most of the time The valves hit the piston and depending on how long it runs after it can be a high part count rebuild. Might be time for that big bore rebuild......... sorry wifey ..... the bike broke I need new parts....... bigger parts.....................
 

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Do you replace the entire follower and tensioner, or can the bearings be sourced separately. Do you have the bearing specs?
On my ST2 the twin roller tensioner bearings they are 6201 2RS C3

Craig
 

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Sorry, the twin bearings or the single wide one, I have the twin ones on order but think I should replace all of them?

Craig
I've just pulled it apart - one of the twin bearings had seized. I'll be replacing the whole lot (and will be every time I do the belts from now). Cheap compared to what can happen if not replaced...
 

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On the tensioner you can change the two bearings. I am not at the shop but a common size bearing, just don't buy a cheap one as there is no money saved.


Belt bearings are one of those checks that should be made once a year on a SS, they are so easy to inspect there is no reason not to do so. Over tensioned belts will destroy a bearing in as little as 500 miles. They do wear out with age and use so pull those covers once in a while and spin the bearings to make sure they turn smoothly. If you see a shiny timing belt it is often letting you know the bearing is not turning.


steveb64
You just played the lottery so put the piston low in the cylinder and see if you can easily turn the camshaft 360. You should be able to feel spring pressure but there should be no binding. If you look in through the spark plug hole look for damage to either valve or piston. If the vlves are good you probably are fine I have seen this happen.

Most of the time The valves hit the piston and depending on how long it runs after it can be a high part count rebuild. Might be time for that big bore rebuild......... sorry wifey ..... the bike broke I need new parts....... bigger parts.....................
Thanks ducvet. Pretty much what I had already figured out. Fingers crossed that the valve train (Ducati mechanical?) gods were smiling on me when the belt broke... Already had that conversation with the missus. She's cool about it - already knows how much OEM piston rings are... Will do the hi-comp pistons rather than the 944 (if I have to do pistons at all), as funds are already tight.

Just checked the cam pulley - it turns OK, no binding. As far as I can see (without a bore scope), the piston looks OK too. Plan at the moment, is to chuck on a couple of new bearings to replace the failed one, and some old belts that I had saved for an 'emergency' - then do a compression check to see what it's like. If it's close enough to the other piston, I'll try a test run. If that's OK, then I'll just get new belts and the rest of the bearings, and keep my fingers crossed. If not, then I'm gonna have to drop the engine out, and spend some time and money on it. <sigh> So much for summer riding. :(
 

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WooHoo!

Title says it all. I did as I said above - compression was 130psi on both cylinders, so plugs back in, and gave it a crank - and it fired up, sounding sweet. :D

Now to order new belts, and the fixed rollers...
 

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Good work Steve, hope the wife doesn't know yet though?

Back to the OP's question, I like Q3's too

Craig
 

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Good work Steve, hope the wife doesn't know yet though?

Back to the OP's question, I like Q3's too

Craig
Yeah - she heard it fire up. Don't care - I'd rather have it going as is, than have to stuff around spending more money. Besides, it goes OK for our shite roads - and my aversion to tickets.

I've been really impressed with the Metzlers (M7RR Sportec) - the front seems to like a slightly higher pressure than I usually run (34 instead of 32), and the wear rate is really good. Looks like I'll get to put some more K's on them now. :)
 

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Sorry OP, but I want to try the new Roadtec 01's on my ST when they get released, I hate the look of PR3/4's they look gay

Sorry gay people, but they do :wink2:

Craig
 

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^^^PR3's looks totally badass and it's the best damn road tire ever.

An Aussie calling someone gay, that is like, like, like something to do with a pot and a kettle and black

:x :x :x
 
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