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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got done replacing my belts on my Hyper 1100EVO.

Followed the CA Cycleworks Videos, everything went fine.

But after I set the tension on the belts, I noticed that my marks on my belts no longer matched up with the markings I made on the belt covers and casing when the horizontal cylinder is TDC. Is that normal??

Got the bike on a rear stand and rotating the rear wheel while the bike is in 6th gear.

Last thing I did was rotate the rear wheel backwards 90 degrees to get the vertical cylinder TDC which is what the CA Cycleworks video says to do. Was I supposed to go 270 degrees forward to get the vertical cylinder TDC?? Thats all I can think of.

Here's a pic of the front cylinder at TDC.

 

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vertical tdc firing is 270 crank degrees or 135 timing shaft degrees forward from horizontal tdc firing. the timing shaft pulley dot should be pointing towards the horizontal cam at vertical tdc firing. vertical tdc overlap is 90 crank degrees back from horizontal tdc firing.

and all the dots should line up once you're done like they did before you started. if they don't, it's wrong.

some visual in this video, about 3:40 -
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
vertical tdc firing is 270 crank degrees or 135 timing shaft degrees forward from horizontal tdc firing. the timing shaft pulley dot should be pointing towards the horizontal cam at vertical tdc firing. vertical tdc overlap is 90 crank degrees back from horizontal tdc firing.

and all the dots should line up once you're done like they did before you started. if they don't, it's wrong.

some visual in this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwuFs38XV6E&t=45s
Dang! I knew I had to [email protected] something up lol.

Alright, So I'll just take the belts off and realign all my markings at Horizontal TDC. Check the horizontal belt tension.

THEN, rotate the crank using the rear tire 270 degrees forward to get the Vertical cylinder TDC in order to check belt tension.

Appreciate the quick lesson Belter!
 

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As long as all of your markings on the cam pulleys and the lay shaft lined up perfectly on both cylinders when you installed the belts, you should be fine. The marks won't line up again after you rotate the crank.
 

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and all the dots should line up once you're done like they did before you started. if they don't, it's wrong.
My bad if I misunderstood but, I think he was talking about the marks he made on the belts/pulleys when he swapped them out. Once you start rotating the crank, those marks will no longer line up each time the timing mark on the lay shaft lines up with the mark on the casing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As long as all of your markings on the crank pulleys and the lay shaft lined up perfectly on both cylinders when you installed the belts, you should be fine. The marks won't line up again after you rotate the crank.
Yup, you're right.

I just took them off and re-installed, lining up my belt markings, turned the wheel forward a couple times and the belt markings didn't match up again when at horizontal TDC. (All pulley dots matched up just not the belts, FYI)

I didn't know if the belts were supposed to continuous match up with the pulley marks.

Well either way, I had the wrong Vertical TDC position. I had the crank pulley dot pointing at 9 O'Clock instead of 3 O'Clock like the video above.

After I get the tension set on both belts. I'll rotate the engine a couple times...is there anything I should be listening for or watching for to make sure all is good?
 

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Sorry buddy, didn't mean to confuse anyone. I think Belter was thinking about the markings on the pulleys while I was thinking about the markings you made on the belts before you removed them, that's all.
 

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I’m not a fan of marking the belts either. If you line up all the dots and lines on the engine correctly, with the belts tensioned correctly , then all is good, correct , Belter ? And they all line up again every other crank revolution , correct ? I’m finding this discussion is getting confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I’m not a fan of marking the belts either. If you line up all the dots and lines on the engine correctly, with the belts tensioned correctly , then all is good, correct , Belter ? And they all line up again every other crank revolution , correct ? I’m finding this discussion is getting confusing.
Yeah I was a bit confused but with the help of everyone especially belter and 1198SP, I'm confident I got everything sorted out.

The important thing for me was getting the right Vertical TDC when checking tension for the vertical belt.

Originally, I had rotated the crank pulley BACKWARDS from Horizontal TDC to check tension so the crank pulley dot was facing the 9 o'clock position. Which I understand is the EXHAUST TDC for the vertical cylinder.

The crank pulley dot should be rotated forward to the 3 o'clock position which is COMPRESSION TDC to check belt tension.

The marking of the belts does seem kind of pointless if all the pulleys correctly line up with their individual markings when reinstalling new belts, from what my small brain can gather.
 

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I’m not a fan of marking the belts either. If you line up all the dots and lines on the engine correctly, with the belts tensioned correctly , then all is good, correct , Belter ? And they all line up again every other crank revolution , correct ? I’m finding this discussion is getting confusing.
Marking the belts may seam like over-kill but it`s not. I will try to explain this without confusing everybody..myself included.
The first time I did the belts I followed the manual from LT Snyder and the video from California Cycle Works...both very helpful :smile2:

But I neglected to put a mark on the crankshaft pulleys and belts for both the vertical and horizontal cylinders, this caused me nothing but grief as when you install the new belt around the crank pulley, without the mark on the pulley & belt, you may end up (like I did) with one side of the belt too loose and the other one too tight! :( ...this causes you too have to remove the belt and change the position of the belt on the crank pulley until you get it right.

Hope I managed to explain that without confusing anyone.. >:)
That said, when i did the belts this year I marked the cam pulleys and the crankshaft pulleys for both cylinders and transferred the marks to the new belts and there was much less colorful language :wink2:

Hope this helps

L8tr
Pete
 

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After I get the tension set on both belts. I'll rotate the engine a couple times...is there anything I should be listening for or watching for to make sure all is good?
Piston to valve contact, anything metallic, resistance, or grinding. All bad.


t_bare
 

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Yes, rotate it slowly with the tool or rear wheel a few times to be sure. Without plugs you shouldn’t feel resistance or hear metal on metal,and if you do, STOP. You can actually bend a valve or crack a guide without the engine running by forcing it.
 

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Marking the belts may seam like over-kill but it`s not. I will try to explain this without confusing everybody..myself included.
The first time I did the belts I followed the manual from LT Snyder and the video from California Cycle Works...both very helpful :smile2:

But I neglected to put a mark on the crankshaft pulleys and belts for both the vertical and horizontal cylinders, this caused me nothing but grief as when you install the new belt around the crank pulley, without the mark on the pulley & belt, you may end up (like I did) with one side of the belt too loose and the other one too tight! :( ...this causes you too have to remove the belt and change the position of the belt on the crank pulley until you get it right.

Hope I managed to explain that without confusing anyone.. >:)
That said, when i did the belts this year I marked the cam pulleys and the crankshaft pulleys for both cylinders and transferred the marks to the new belts and there was much less colorful language :wink2:

Hope this helps

L8tr
Pete
see, i don't understand any of that, especially the "one side of the belt too loose" bit. i just line up the dots (or marks i've made in the case of a testa) and know it's right. but this is very much a job of comfortable procedure, so i always recommend people do what they need to do to make it work for them.
 

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Marking the belts is just a way to help people who don't understand the concept
be sure they are doing it correctly. It assumes that the belts you are removing
were done correctly and by marking the new belts you are putting them in the
exact same position as the old belts. It's overkill but a way to try and make it
fool proof.
 

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Marking the belts is a good a way to make sure you don’t jack something up if you’re new to the procedure - cheap insurance in case you feel a little unsure about changing belts.

I fucked up the first time I changed belts. It’s kinda scary when you think you’ve done such an awesome job only to find out you can’t rotate the crank by hand lol.
 

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see, i don't understand any of that, especially the "one side of the belt too loose" bit. i just line up the dots (or marks i've made in the case of a testa) and know it's right. but this is very much a job of comfortable procedure, so i always recommend people do what they need to do to make it work for them.
Yeah agreed, my blurb would have been more helpful with a picture or diagram.
But like you said, whatever works and does not grenade the top end is good >:)

L8tr
Pete
 

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I did not mark the belts but I did visually ID the piston at TDC by shining a bore light I use for guns into the spark plug hole and of course the timing marks. lol

The only part I didn't think was super straightforward was setting the tension as it is a tad different on a DS motor. I was able to get a good reading on the horizontal belt with a tuning app but not the horizontal belt.

I used the allen wrench method there. Have a few thousand miles on it and have been whipping it the whole time. No problems so far lol.
 

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Keep in mind whatever method you use to check tension; The belt gets tighter as the engine gets hotter so its important to not adjust too tight. That will just stress the belts and bearings. Do whatever method you like, and make absolutely sure your tensioners are tightened to spec. I replace the tensioner nuts whenever they feel like they’re not grabbing the stud well, same for the toothed washers. I think its more likely that the tensioner would slip and cause a disaster than a belt would fail. My SS, and probably a lot of the older bikes, still have the original nuts and washers on the tensioner. Change them occasionally, it’s good insurance.
 
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