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Discussion Starter #1
2005 ST3 - Can you use the allen #5 go and the #6 no go procedure in adjusting the timing belts? I do not have a Mathesis nor do I quite understand LT Snyder's procedure of using fingers to squeeze belts to establish 45 degree deflection for proper tension. Thanks - bike very new to me.
 

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Download n-track tuner to your phone or pad. I was Leary of it until I did it. It’s free and even I could figure it out. As far as the Allen wrench method it too works fine. Also usable was my Harley drive belt tension gauge which is set up for the same tension as a Ducati cam belt. It cast about $10 at a HD dealer. The tension really just ends up being “ snug, no slack “ as I’ve set new belts that way and when I checked tension it was close to the spec. You don’t need to go really tight when cold because the belts get much tighter on a warm engine, so if you take the slack out and torque the tensioners you’re really good to go.
 

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Check it when the motor is hot and tell me if there is any way in hell it could jump a tooth.
 

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Yes it was, but anyone is welcome to answer any question I pose, as usual. The basic idea I was posing is that being adjusted right on the money is good but close is perfectly acceptable.
 

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It is less a matter of jumping a tooth as it is overloading the bearing and overheating it. I have seen far more 1000/1100/st3 motors eat bearings than any other ducati to date. Simply put you SHOULD NEVER USE A ALLEN KEY ON THESE MOTORS :grin2: well that's my opinion so take it for what its worth. A Hz reading is going to be much safer as the safe zone with this belt geometry has the least about of room for error.

I have had customers use the allen method and jump time as it is too loose on a cold motor. But if you go too tight you risk a bearing failure and that's no good either. A HZ reading and you will be able to get much closer to the spec and not be guessing. There are free programs as mentioned so there should be no reason for little money you cannot do it right. If you are unsure get it done by a pro. and have them show you how.

The Allen method IS safe for some models but the fact is it is not safe for ALL models. I know as I adjust belts on All models and use both the allen method AND a HZ meter. Use the right tool for the job.
 

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i keep the idler bearings in stock now, just for the number i need to replace on the 696 - 1100 series. that way it doesn't hold me up.

i wonder if the header going past puts any more heat in than normal?
 

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Yes, I was amazed at how much tighter the belts get when warm, but the belts don’t normally stretch or even elongate with increased rpm’s due to their construction. At least , the correct belts that are made for the application. I had one Ducati brand belt stretch crazily right after installation, so much that I thought I must have forgotten to tighten the idler. Fortunately that was the one time I didn’t put the covers back on , and I noticed it dancing around. It didn’t jump a tooth, but it probably should have, as loose as it was . Anyway, let me clarify by saying I don’t think there is anything wrong with the Allen method on those models where it was a recommended way to do it. As I said a few days ago, the n-track tuner works fine, is free, and even I had no trouble using it, so why bother with the Allen wrench method. I totally agree too tight belt tension will destroy bearings, and it’s not necessary to go really tight. It serves no purpose. Make double sure when you’re done that the tensioners are tight, and replace the lock washers periodically.
 

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For fun some time use the Hz meter on the belts cold and then read them again at running temp. during a valve seminar once I did this with a 1000 monster and we saw the HZ jump from 100Hz to over 200Hz in short order. I do not see failed belts often it is usually a burnt up bearing or a broken belt when the valves are bent and the cam no longer turns. Under normal useage belts are very good for the job.
 

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Yes, I was amazed at how much tighter the belts get when warm, but the belts don’t normally stretch or even elongate with increased rpm’s due to their construction. At least , the correct belts that are made for the application. I had one Ducati brand belt stretch crazily right after installation, so much that I thought I must have forgotten to tighten the idler. Fortunately that was the one time I didn’t put the covers back on , and I noticed it dancing around. It didn’t jump a tooth, but it probably should have, as loose as it was . Anyway, let me clarify by saying I don’t think there is anything wrong with the Allen method on those models where it was a recommended way to do it. As I said a few days ago, the n-track tuner works fine, is free, and even I had no trouble using it, so why bother with the Allen wrench method. I totally agree too tight belt tension will destroy bearings, and it’s not necessary to go really tight. It serves no purpose. Make double sure when you’re done that the tensioners are tight, and replace the lock washers periodically.
if you had done a ds / 3v engine, i think you'd be surprised by how you can't pull the horizontal belt away from the fixed bearing when set to 110 - 110hz or by the "pull tensioners together" method which is what you normally do based on you previous post (as i do). it's a very distinct difference to the trad 2v, and it'd be obvious as you have trad 2v experience. if you did do the hex key method the belt would be very loose, and you'd recognise straight away that it's not right.

the vertical on the ds/3v behaves the same as the trad 2v, and the hex key method could be employed there. but not the horizontal.
 

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For fun some time use the Hz meter on the belts cold and then read them again at running temp. during a valve seminar once I did this with a 1000 monster and we saw the HZ jump from 100Hz to over 200Hz in short order. I do not see failed belts often it is usually a burnt up bearing or a broken belt when the valves are bent and the cam no longer turns. Under normal useage belts are very good for the job.

I saw that on my 4v. I was surprised how taught it was when hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Downloaded the app for n-tracker tune. Put iphone micro right next to belt and cannot get a hz reading no matter how many times we plunked belt. If you talk it registers hz. But seems to not have enough input from plunking belt to register on phone. Graph goes up and down like it should be not high enough to register hz. What am I doing wrong with this method? Seemed pretty straight forward and thought I had a correct method to adjust belts. Thanks, this is turning out to be a bearcat. Had no trouble doing the #5 allen on my 2 valve Ducati's. Not trying to over think this process and make it bigger than it is. Just trying to save a few (well more than a few) bucks and not have to take it to dealer.
 

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Dennis, you have a laptop or desktop? download this jpdiag use a simple plug in mic.
I haven't had much luck with phone apps trying to get a good capture of the belt pluck but JP's application on my laptop has always worked for me.
Good luck!
 

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Dennis, you have a laptop or desktop? download this jpdiag use a simple plug in mic.
I haven't had much luck with phone apps trying to get a good capture of the belt pluck but JP's application on my laptop has always worked for me.
Good luck!
Once you use this method you'll wonder why you even bothered with Allen keys. Very repeatable results.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Reason I am a bit testy is that this Friday I am leaving on a 8 day bike trip with buds into California to Sierra Mountains, northern Cal and old gold towns and great mountain back roads. So in a little crunch time to get this last item done but it will be done come hell or high water! Was hoping to get a little time in the saddle (new to me the ST3) before I left to get more familiar with bike. Just sold Yamaha FZ1, have owned Hayabusa, Multistrada, Triumph Sprint, Duc 907IE (2 of them), Darmah, restored '74 Norton Commando and more. Sure wish I had that bevel back! Anyway thanks for your help and suggestions. Main thing is I don't want to over think or over due this process. Want to enjoy the ride and not have to think about "are my belts tension correctly".
 

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I've never had a problem with Tension2Go on my iPhone. A couple plucks of the belt and you're good to go. I also have recently downloaded Gates Carbon Drive. That app looks good and my initial tests (with string and a rubber band) indicate that it may be a bit easier to get a reproducible reading with fewer plucks.
 
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