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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all.
I have finally started a build on my 2003 999S. So I plan on using this to document the build and ask for suggestions and inputs, especially given we have some real 999 Gurus here, and I honestly have very little knowledge of the 999 platform. Like most, when the 999 came out, I hated the look of it, but has grown on me so much I am really looking forward to building this one.
It will not be a track bike, just a weekend warrior up in the mountains when I feel like a SBK. That said I want it to be something special. I am not interested in keeping it stock, it’s only an S model…so some good bits but not rare like an R model. So tasteful mods are what I am looking for. The bike was in relatively good condition but had been out on the Bonneville Salt Flats for some passes…and for the past several years it has been my parts bike that I have raided some items for one of my LSR bikes which uses a 999 motor. My inspiration for the build is Jusutus’s Isabella, Four Rings, Trussdudes, (although we all need more pictures of it). AirDuck’s build also had a mighty cool list of parts. So I would love to hear opinions, ideas and thoughts of what you would do or not do in making a dream 999.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So to start the direction of the bike some decisions have already been made. It will have a red frame. I also decided I will add bolt on Frame bracing (I believe this is RS bikes). Of course on the street it’s not needed, nor am I fast enough to tell the difference anyway. But because it makes it a little bit different, I am going for it. I have some left over 4140 and am painting the frame anyway, so why not? I already started machining the lugs for the frame. Besides that and removing some of the wiring clips any other suggested frame mods?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One big design item I have not decided on yet is to fit the later Box swingarm verses the Cast Grey swingarm. I prefer the look of the box swingarm, but if I am not mistaken, I don’t think the Termignoni 53mm system will fit. The exhaust really needs cleaned up. I will polish the system and should look great. The muffler is straight through, (I thought these had converters in them)??? If I decide to keep the grey swingarm, I think I will smooth the casting surface out and paint it the same gloss black I will use on the subframe.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The motor will remain fairly stock now, simply because there is nothing wrong with it…But I will pull the jugs and inspect. While the heads are off, I will clean up the ports, radius and back cut the valves, set the squish and degree the cams. I will lighten the flywheel as well.
Also decided it will be open clutch I love the vented cases and have to vent one for the 1000DS motor I have so I will set up the mill and vent both.
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There's a flattened area on the 57mm exhaust that fits through the box-styled swing arm. Some folks refer to it as "banana exhaust."
I'd love to get a consensus from the 999 gurus if the banana exhaust is 54mm or 57mm. I've always been under the impression it's 54mm, those I've talked to agree but the papers from Ducati Performance that came with the exhaust says 57mm and the measurement I did at a random place on mine was 57mm. :LOL: Could probably do a lot more measurements but already packed it away again as I won't be using it until maybe the next project bike.


Nice project! Hit me up if you want some ideas on how to improve the exhaust ports while you are in there grinding away :)
How much of a difference do you think it would make doing the exhaust ports?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice project! Hit me up if you want some ideas on how to improve the exhaust ports while you are in there grinding away :)
@TomTom absolutely I would love to try out your “ideas”! They have all worked pretty damn good so far. 😁 Since this is going to be a street bike your porting will be way more useful than the porting I did on the turbocharged LSR 999 motor. 🤯. I’ll PM you or email you if it’s easier. Thank you for always being willing to share your knowledge.
 
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I'd love to get a consensus from the 999 gurus if the banana exhaust is 54mm or 57mm. I've always been under the impression it's 54mm, those I've talked to agree but the papers from Ducati Performance that came with the exhaust says 57mm and the measurement I did at a random place on mine was 57mm.
Both versions exist but most are 57mm.
 

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How much of a difference do you think it would make doing the exhaust ports?
Exhaust port improvements will be seen above 7,5k or so, not so important on a street bike, but sometimes just making it right makes sense. On the 1198 hybrid engine it did 7hp more top end with this mod isolated. More important than the actual numbers it makes for a fun free flowing character as it will keep pulling through the range.
I'll try and dig up the dyno files for it.
 

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Exhaust port improvements will be seen above 7,5k or so, not so important on a street bike, but sometimes just making it right makes sense. On the 1198 hybrid engine it did 7hp more top end with this mod isolated. More important than the actual numbers it makes for a fun free flowing character as it will keep pulling through the range.
I'll try and dig up the dyno files for it.
That's awesome! Thanks for the info! I'd love to see those graphs if you find them.
 

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The exhaust situation between the cast and box swingarms is that the full exhaust system to suit the cast swingarm will hit the bottom of the box swingarm. You'd have to do cutting and welding to make a system designed for the cast arm to fix the box arm. It's one of the headers just before they join up to run up vertically past the footpeg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you Rod. So in your experience it’s not too much of a mod to keep the headers that matched the cast swingarm to fit the box arm? I have no problem welding and fabricating…I just didn’t figure there was much point in all that work to build a complete system when I have a viable Termi system. And if just a small amount of work is needed to use on the box swimgarm why not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Idea stolen from Jusutus…carbon fiber heat shield in the making. I have a shit ton of carbon work so I thought I would warm up with a easy piece.
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Idea stolen from Jusutus…carbon fiber heat shield in the making. I have a shit ton of carbon work so I thought I would warm up with a easy piece. View attachment 1044590 View attachment 1044591
That's awesome! Can't wait to see the result. Have similar plans in the near future so would love as much details described and depicted as possible of the process. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
@Broombah instead of telling me what to do, maybe explain why, then we might learn something? I am just a hack who taught myself to make carbon parts…and I have made quite a few. But always looking for advice on how to improve. I rarely ever use vacuum bag, normally I just wet lay everything. The heat shielding turned out ok. Still needs trimmed and a couple small voids in resin which I can easily fill later.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
And I managed the get the pipes apart. That was a son of a bitch!!!! I had to heat the joints with the acetylene torch and wiggle for a half hour but finally got it. Now I can polish them. Frame lugs for RS bracing are almost finished and ready for welding.
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@Broombah instead of telling me what to do, maybe explain why, then we might learn something? I am just a hack who taught myself to make carbon parts…and I have made quite a few. But always looking for advice on how to improve. I rarely ever use vacuum bag, normally I just wet lay everything. The heat shielding turned out ok. Still needs trimmed and a couple small voids in resin which I can easily fill later.
View attachment 1046615
I would have started with "I didn't know that please tell me why" But i'll take that on board and remember that the next time I think about replying.

Ok it's like this. You don't want that breech valve on the component because firstly its not good practice and it could witness on the component, but most importantly if your part is resin rich then it could suck up resin and in the worst case block itself and your line, and in some cases bond itself onto your part. That's why you put it on the tail or at the very least on the back side of the mould. The resin will naturally want to track to the source of the vacuum so you want that source away from the part itself.

Try to make your bag at least half as long and half as wide again as your component. This way the bag won't have to stretch, and you have bag to position on the part where needed.

Before you start laminating you might want to get the bag ready and mist it with some water and set it to one side - it softens the material making it more supple and less crunchy to deal with and if it's less crunchy it has less chance of cracking and giving you a pin prick hole that you'll be chasing.

When applying your tape go about a half inch over the fold seam and that way when you close your bag you know you've got enough tape there to seal the seam point.
if you get air tracking through the tape seam stretch it tight across your fingers like you were holding dental floss - once you've sealed the bag up then run around the tape line again.

Pull the bag down slowly, don't vac everything out all at once pull it down so its slack, position the bag on the part, vac a bit more so it's got very loose tension, move the bag around again and then vac down fully. At this point chase the tape line around again to ensure a seal and close any points where air is still tracking through.

You're trying to eliminate bridging, and it's why you realise that a fitted to size bag isn't big enough and you needed larger as those contours and features swallow up bag real estate like sweets.

That bag is everything. Get your bag right and your part will come out with minimal bridging and by default voiding and pinholes.

If you have a vacuum gauge and your bag is good your pressure drop will be minimal if at all - it should hold vac on it's own merit.

You can vacuum polyester as well, some will tell you that you cant, all you need to do is ensure that when you have a decent vacuum then you take off the vac - that's when you find out if your bag is any good, what you don't want to do is keep vac sucking as it draws out all the styrene and it won't cure. You just want to vac down enough to consolidate the laminate. Very handy with woven matt under polyester.
 
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